Pour the Muriatic Acid SLOWLY into the return stream and be careful not to breathe the fumes. That way the acid will be diluted quickly and won't sink and damage your liner.
Carl
Pour the Muriatic Acid SLOWLY into the return stream and be careful not to breathe the fumes. That way the acid will be diluted quickly and won't sink and damage your liner.
Carl
Carl
+1 to what Carl said- I've been playing with chemicals for almost 40 years, and yesterday sloshed the MA a little; didn't spill, but the fumes were pretty potent!
I inadvertently sniffed a bottle not knowing it was MA a few months ago...it was a rough few minutes and I was lucky for having been incredibly dumb! REALLY dumb. NEVER do that!
Carl
Carl
Thank you all so much for your advice. I went to Home Depot and poured in the muratic acid into the return stream at the deep end.
Is there a way to know how high the cya levels really are? I am afraid that if they are really high it will cost a fortune in bleach, but on the other hand it costs $400 to drain and to fill it up again. I will order the test kit from your signature.
I have taken before pictures and will post the after ones when I get this cleared up.
Tom
it's not real accurate, but you can do a "shotglass" test with CYA...
1 shot pool water
1 shot distilled water (tap would probably be ok, since there shouldn't be any CYA in your tapwater)
then do the CYA test and multiply by 2 (if you still read 100, you'd have to dilute more- it could be over 200!)
Distilled water is really important for the shot glass method when you are testing chlorine, as tap water frequently has chlorine in it.
While it's probably better for the CYA test, I think madwil is probably right that tap water should be OK, if you don't have distilled.
(BTW, Steam Distilled water is available at most supermarkets and drug chains)
Carl
Carl
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