New to BBB, what next?

[CarlD]

Ouch!
Why did you add the CYA? It doesn't aid in getting rid of algae! But we can work around that.

OK, OK. It's not that bad. We've see much MUCH worse. But don't add anything more except what we indicate below. Don't "try" algaecides, clarifiers, phosphate removers, etc. There's not quick and easy way and they will make the problem worse.
You have to kill the algae and that means chlorine.

Remember the old adage: "When you are up to your (waist) in alligators it's hard to remember that the objective was to drain the swamp." So let's stick to getting out of the swamp!

I'm guessing you have an OTO test kit that goes to 5ppm max for chlorine. If you dilute the pool water 1:1 with distilled water (steam distilled, nothing else--your supermarket or chain drug store has it cheap) you double the range of your tester--if it goes to 5, now it goes to 10. Search our site for the Shot Glass Method. If you use 2 parts distilled to 1 part pool, it now goes to 15.

This will tide you over but you really need to get a proper FAS-DPD test kit. We recommend the Taylor K2006 or K2006C kits (not the K2005). It's online at TaylorTechnologies.com. There are some other source, but apparently the one that helps PoolForum isn't working right now. Or you can get it online from Leslies as the "Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit". It's the same as the Taylor, only re-badged by Leslies. Same thing, though, even uses Taylor chemicals. You won't find an FAS-DPD test in a pool store, only online.

For now, don't worry about CYA or Alk. Only pH and Chlorine levels matter. I suspect your CYA level is going to keep rising, meaning you will need higher and higher chlorine levels.

First: Get your pH down. You can use either Muriatic acid (Be VERY careful, wear gloves and goggles) or dry acid. I prefer to always mix either first into 5 gallon bucket of water (ALWAYS add the acid to the water, not the other way around).
You want to lower your pH to 7.0 to 7.6, no lower or your liner may be weakened, no higher or you chlorine won't be as effective. So do it GRADUALLY. If you use Muriatic, add a cup to the 5 gal bucket of water (pool water's fine) and put it in the pool. After an hour, test the pH. Repeat until the pH is in range. For dry acid, use no more than half of what the container recommends to lower your pH as much as they say. (As you pH comes down, you will notice your Alk comes down as well. FOR NOW IGNORE THAT!)

Next, you need lots of chlorine. Bleach is best. With your CYA at 55 ppm and almost certainly rising I would aim for the chlorine shock level recommended for CYA between 60 and 90ppm--a Free Chlorine value of 20ppm. That's 5 gallons of 6% bleach to start. Expect to add that much 3x every day--morning, noon and night. If your CYA goes past 100, you'll have to add at least another gallon + 1 quart, to reach a shock value of 25ppm. That's what it's going to take to kill the algae and clear your pool. If you prefer to use Liquid Chlorine which is 12.5 strength (just like bleach, only twice as strong), you'll need almost 2.5 gallons to reach 20ppm, or 3 gallons to achieve 25ppm.

It may take several days to do this but it may go faster. Consistency is the key.

Meanwhile, follow the basic rules of running your pump 24/7, vacuum to waste each day, and brush your pool each day.

It's not complicated, but it does require P.O.P.---Pool Owner Patience, as Ben likes to say.

Carl