Pentair Intellibrite vs Hayward Colorlogic

[kelemvor]

well, there is no sticker on the existing light identifying it's manufacturer. I am assuming Hayward since many of my other pool parts are Hayward.


Here's a photo if that helps: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14865808@N00/4819933152/

Sure, I'd like to hear about pulling it myself. I assume it would be along the lines of disconnect it from the block. Tie some sort of string or something to the block end, and pull the cable out, then tie the string to the end of the cable on the new light and pull that back through?

I assume the pool has to be drained to a level below the socket for this?

[waste]

You're pretty good with your assumptions! Except for having to drain the pool - I've been able to do it 95% of the time without having to get in the pool (draining was never done).

Your old light has a 'halogen' bulb, most of them I've seen are Pentair. If you go with another brand's light, you may need to go to the hardware store and get a slightly longer screw for the 'set screw'

If you pull the lights yourself, don't forget to secure the string to the light cord with electrical tape (and I'll still give you a couple of other tips on pulling and reconnecting a light )

[CarlD]

If the new light is low-voltage, I'd go for it.

I KNOW they seal the lights, but no matter what full voltage (120v) lights in pools terrify me, even with GFI. I would never have anything but lo-voltage (12v or less) lighting in a pool.

Steel sided pools can have lights that are actually out of the pool but shine through a window, like a porthole. You can access and service the lights without draining water.

[kelemvor]

Don't be lulled into a false sense of confidence by the voltage. My light is 12v and has two 100w bulbs. 1a of current will kill, and 200w/12v=16.6a WAY more than sufficient to kill, and for the circuit to work you're going to need a 20a breaker...

If it were 120v, it would be 200w/120v=1.6a. You could put a 2a fuse or breaker on that circuit and have a much higher degree of safety; although still plenty of deadly current capability.

At 120v though, it would be much easier for current to travel where it's not desired... and salt water only improves the water's conductivity...

In either situation, you've got to rely on proper grounding and GFCI protection in case of a fault.

The pentair 5g appears to consume 50w (or 70w in the white only model?) which would still draw about 4a@12v but only 0.4a at 120v (which would be unlikely to kill)... hence me thinking 120v would be nice with the new light.

[kelemvor]

You're pretty good with your assumptions! Except for having to drain the pool - I've been able to do it 95% of the time without having to get in the pool (draining was never done).

Your old light has a 'halogen' bulb, most of them I've seen are Pentair. If you go with another brand's light, you may need to go to the hardware store and get a slightly longer screw for the 'set screw'

If you pull the lights yourself, don't forget to secure the string to the light cord with electrical tape (and I'll still give you a couple of other tips on pulling and reconnecting a light )

I'd love any instructions you can share. I assumed there would be some kind of stopper near the niche that stop the water from flooding the wiring conduit? How do you do the job without draining and not have the whole conduit full of water... or does it fill with water and I'm just wrong about that being an issue?

Also, I don't have a proper set screw for the old light.. the light was not in the niche when I bought the house and the screw was nowhere to be found.. the pool store guy's guess at the right screw was wrong. I'm hoping the new light "kit" will come with a screw.

[waste]

Most (read ALL) lights have a flooded conduit, unless ground shifting/ freezing has compromised the conduit, in which case, someone may have puttied the niche to stop the leak and you'll have to remove the putty to pull the old cord out and install the new one, and then re-putty the niche when you install the new light.

The wires are very simple, the black one carries the current, the white one is neutral and the green one is the grounding wire. At your junction box, just make note as to which color wire attaches where and replicate that when you install the new cord. (but you sound like you know electricity far, far better than I)

When I pull a light cord, as you suggested, tie a string to one of the old cord's wires (and tape it) and pull the old cord out. If it's tough to pull the old cord out, either the electrician used a small conduit or the conduit has broken somewhere and the broken pieces are pinching the cord .

When going to install a new light, I unravel the cord - I walk around the pool 'unwrapping' the cord, so that there are no 'kinks' to get stuck at the back of the niche, where the conduit attaches

It helps to have someone 'feed'/ force the cord, if it get's stuck (YOU DO NOT WANT TO BREAK THE STRING!!) A little lube on the first couple of feet of the cord helps.

Maybe I helped with this, maybe I didn't - if you need more of my advice, simply ask

[kelemvor]

I got the pentair intellibrite 5g. It's pretty groovy. Like I've seen on other posts, the red is a bit dim; for the price they charge they should fix it. Otherwise it's perfectly bright for my pool. On white it's a bit brighter than the old light with two 100w halogen bulbs, and it's really white so the pool looks blue at night instead of green (although it does have various shades of green you can choose if you so desire).

Turns out the niche in my pool is an off brand according to the pool guy and moreover is not installed correctly - I guess the screw hole is supposed to be at the top (to screw the light in) but instead it's at about a 2 o clock position.

The pool guy actually charged me less for the light than I was able to find it for online and with labor it was 600.

[kelemvor]

Pics:
white
green
purple
white

There is something a bit odd that you can't tell in the photos. When the light is set to white, it is actually a combination of all the LED's including the color ones. The light emitted from it is definitely white but you can easily see the rainbow of LED colors when you look directly at the "bulb".

The color changing mechanism with this light is to turn it on, then cycle the power switch a specific number of times to choose colors (or buy an expensive controller). It's not as much of a hassle as it sounds like, but I'm definitely going to have to copy the page from the manual and get it laminated to attach to the wall next to the switch.

[Watermom]

That is a nice looking pool!