1 gal of 10% every 2 days?

[jkmhb]

After reading on this forum, and a partial water change, I've decided to go entirely liquid chlorine instead of pucks in a floater with liquid as a shock.

24,000 gal. inground pool + spa with waterfall from spa into pool.

My question, is it seems like I need to add a gallon of 10% chlorine every 2 days because the level of FC drops to 0 or 1. I've fought off some algae, and I don't want it to return.

So, my question is, does this seem like a reasonable amount of chlorine to need to add?

TH= 200
FC = 3
PH= 8.4
TA = 200
CYA = 30

Yes, I know my PH is high. It seems like no matter how much acid I add it either stays high or goes back up to 8.4 very quickly. I've kind of given up fighting it, but would want to know if this is OK. I suspect it has to do with the waterfall, and maybe that the plaster in our pool is 30 years old. Water from our tap is very hard and has high PH as well.

Thanks,

[jhm]

Sounds like a lot of bleach to me. I'm in SoCal, where are you? I do think you'll be happier with the BBB method of water treatment.

At a CYA of 30, I have to add a fair amount of chlorine, but not that much. I tend to keep it more around 40, especially during summer. Still, when it is really hot more is required.

I fight pH too. I have a waterfall (not always on), a spa spillover and a little fountain bubbler. All that aeration drives up the pH. But I find it pays to maintain it anyway. It certainly helps the chlorine be a more effective sanitizer.

Well, you'll get better advice than this, but that's my experience.

[jkmhb]

Thanks JHM. I'm in socal also. I'm kind of following the BBB method as well , but since my TA and PH are already high, it seems I only need the one B - bleach. It just seems I need a lot of it!

[mas985]

That is a bit over 2 ppm per day. With a FC of 3 ppm, you are losing quite a bit each day. It is possible that you are fighting an algae bloom.

Also, if you get your TA down with MA, then it will help with the PH.

[Watermom]

Test in the evening when the sun is off the pool and then again in the morning before the sun is on the pool. If you are losing more than 1ppm overnight, then you are fighting something in the water and need to take the cl level up to shock level and try and keep it there until there is no more overnight loss greater than 1ppm.

[CarlD]

I agree with Watermom.

Also, your TA is very high as well. That is, in part, a function of how high your pH is, and, if you test TA when the pH is (briefly) in the right range, you'll see it's lower, but still too high.

What you need to do is get your TA 'way down, which means adding a LOT of Muriatic Acid. I'm guessing you have a shotcrete/gunite/plaster pool (as opposed to vinyl or fiberglass). This allows you lower your pH safely to levels in the high 6's without danger of harming the surface. I'm not sure how much acid you need, but you can figure that out easily. Your waterfall will aerate it back up. But you should aim for the low end of TA--probably 80 at the highest. This should help keep pH down.

I strongly suggest you consider the 50ppm level for borates in your pool as well. With the lower TA, a borate level of 50ppm, you should have the dual effect of controlling your pH better and fighting off algae better. It seems to really help pools with your problem. This will use a lot of both borax and Muriatic Acid, and you have to get your FC under control as well.

Since you are still swimming, I'm guessing you are in the more Southern regions. Therefore you should consider raising you CYA to a level of at least 50ppm and trying to maintain FC there. Even up here in NJ, I frequently raise my CYA to the 40-50 level because of UV chlorine loss. And aylad, my fellow Mod, keeps hers in the 70-80 range in Louisiana because otherwise she faces what you face, with FC.

But you gotta get that pH down because with pH that high, the chlorine is far less effective, as well.