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Thread: Phosphates ????

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    Default Phosphates ????

    I just had my pool water tested at the local pool store and they indicated that my pool water is fine - except (of course here it comes) they now are testing for phosphates and they said that my phosphate level is at 3000 (should be 0 to 200 they say). Now they want to sell me some chemical to remove the phosphates from the pool. I feel like I am being 'poolstored'.... as I did not need to buy anything from them this time.

    I just recently added the borax to my pool and it is at 50 - right where it should be and according to my testing, my pool is balanced.

    Could the addition of the borax (20 mule team) be the reason for the high phosphates readings that the pool store got? Incidently I spoke with pool store owner about 4 weeks ago about the 20 mule team thing and he vehemently denies that the addition of borax will do anything to better the water. Little does he know that I have never had such an easy time in keeping my water balanced and as crystal clear as it is now.

    After being in Florida for more than 20 years, why all of a sudden are phosphates a problem in my pool now?

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    Watermom's Avatar
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    Default Re: Phosphates ????

    Quote Originally Posted by Nevets View Post

    I just recently added the borax to my pool and it is at 50 - right where it should be and according to my testing, my pool is balanced.

    Could the addition of the borax (20 mule team) be the reason for the high phosphates readings that the pool store got?
    The borax will not add any phosphates, it is sodium tetraborate. However, if you have ever used any metal sequesterants they can and do break down into othophosphates.

    Incidently I spoke with pool store owner about 4 weeks ago about the 20 mule team thing and he vehemently denies that the addition of borax will do anything to better the water. Little does he know that I have never had such an easy time in keeping my water balanced and as crystal clear as it is now.
    Ask your pool store if they sell Supreme (Proteam), Optimizer (Bioguard), Endure (Arch), Maximizer (Guardex), Synergy Initiator (Omni), Salt Water Magic (Natural Chemistry), Mineral Springs (Bioguard), pH Balance Plus (Leisure Time), or Gentle Spa (Proteam) and if any of them will do anything to 'better the water'. They are ALL borate products from major swimming pool chemical lines but by no means the only ones being sold!
    Bottom line, borates work and 20 mule team is the most cost effective way to add them!


    After being in Florida for more than 20 years, why all of a sudden are phosphates a problem in my pool now?
    They aren't. Let me explain what is going on. There are two main sources of algae food, phosphates and nitrates. Phosphates can be removed from the water with lanthanum salts (which pool stores will readily sell you) which is why pool stores test for phosphates. How CON-VEEN-YENT! It puts money in their cash register. However, they do not test for nitrates, WHICH ARE EVERY BIT AS IMPORTANT TO ALGAE GROWTH! Know why?
    The only way to effectively lower nitrates is by water replacement. Pool stores don't make money on that because they can't test your water and then sell you " magic in a bottle" to fix what supposedly ails your pool!
    Bottom line, if you maintain your FC where it is supposed to be for your CYA then phosphates are not going to be a problem.

    Anyway, you have 50 ppm borates in your water. One of the main benefits of borates are their algaestatic properties. Even if your phosphates are high the borates will help ward off any algae if your chlorine drops too low for a bit (I have gone for as long as 2 weeks with my pool shut off while on vacation in JULY more than once and came back to a pool that had no chlorine left but also no algae because of the borates. I live in Florida also (over 50 years now) and my orthophosphates are over 3000 ppb.
    Last edited by waterbear; 10-02-2010 at 09:10 PM.
    11.75'x23.75' kidney 6.5K gal IG fiberglass pool/300 gal acrylic spillover spa combo; Aqualogic automation/SWCG; Pentair Clean and Clear 150 cart filter; 1.5 hp uprated 2 spd Pentair Whisperflo pump; PF:17
    Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.

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    Default Re: Phosphates ????

    You have not been "Pool-Stored"! You resisted! Congratulations!

    But you can see how getting "Pool-Stored" is very easy. Here are a few pool store scare tactics--just a few--the Top Ten:
    1) Your phosphates are too high
    2) You need calcium (for a vinyl or fiberglass pool)
    3) Bleach will raise your TDS (Total dissolved solids).
    4) But our Liquid Chlorine won't! (It's the same as bleach)
    5) You need flocculant
    6) You need clarifier
    7) You need copper-based algaecide
    8) You need ammonia-base algaecide
    9) Chlorine is what turns blond hair green
    10) You have chlorine lock.
    Last edited by CarlD; 11-05-2010 at 08:05 AM. Reason: Gave fellow mods reasons to kid me...
    Carl

    16'x40' rectangle 19K gal AG vinyl pool; ; Hayward T210 sand filter; Hayward 2 Speed Superpump 1hp pump; hrs; PS 233; PF:6.3

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    Default Re: Phosphates ????

    I'm having the same issue(s) and getting the same info.
    My phosphates and nitrates are off the charts and I'm being told:
    1st suggestion is to drain the pool 93% and refill
    or I can treat for phosphates and fight the chlorine problem all summer.

    I've not heard anything about Borates. How do you measure Borates?

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    Default Re: Phosphates ????

    For Borates, you'll have to get strips specifically for them. Waterbear can probably advise you better on which ones are the most accurate, but I'm thinking LaMotte or Aquachek are two of the brands that he recommends.


    Janet

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