Quote Originally Posted by IMherDad
This is the year we are switching. After doing a lot of reading late last year we are "drinking the kool-aid" and moving to bleach. My wife thinks I may be nuts but after seeing just how much chemicals have increased this year its time to make the move. We have a 33' above ground pool, 2 hp pump using Zeobrite.

So my questions are this:

1) We need a test kit. Which one will work best for our situation?
Well, the easy answer is Ben's Pool Solutions PS234 kit. Taylor makes a similar one. It will measure chlorine levels up to 100ppm (parts per million).


2) What do we need to get started?
Information. Read the tips and A/G info on PoolSolutions.com
Chemicals? the 3 Bees. Bleach (for chlorine), Borax to raise pH. Baking Soda (to raise Total Alkalinity). You'll need Muriatic Acid or Dry Acid to lower pH, CYA/Stabilizer/Conditioner to establish the correct CYA level, and, on occasion, Polyquat 60%--the ONLY algaecide you should use.

3) We will open the pool in the next 30 days or so do we need to shock the water before we start adding bleach?
Please don't be offended: the question doesn't mean anything. ALL shocking is, is raising the chlorine levels to the point that the chlorine kills anything growing and consumes other contaminants.

You also don't realize that bleach IS chlorine. If you go to the pool store and buy "Liquid Chlorine" or "Liquid Shock", all you are buying is bleach--sometimes in a stronger concentration, sometimes EXACTLY the same. Branch Brook Pools in my area sell gallon jugs of "Liquid Chlorine" that is 6% Sodium Hypochlorite. This is EXACTLY the same chemical as "Ultra Bleach" in a different package with a different label. Those 5 gallon blue carboys of "Liquid Chlorine" are simply the same as "Ultra Bleach", but at twice the concentration--12% rather than 6% Sodium Hypochlorite.

Bleach is a FAR better chlorinator than the powders or tablets you have been using. There is: Di-Chlor powder. This adds CYA as well as chlorine and lowers pH. The CYA levels build up until they are too high and THEN they make your chlorine INEFFECTIVE. Tablets are usually Tri-Chlor. They add even more CYA and are extremely acid, lowering your pH. Now, the HTH tri-chlor tabs also add copper--which turns blonde hair green and creates all sorts of other problems. Then there's Cal-Hypo--the powder adds lots of calcium to your water. Sooner or later, you have too much and your water gets milky. Cal-Hypo tablets don't dissolve properly and either clog your skimmer or leave white stuff on your pool bottom. And they add calcium.

Only Sodium Hypochlorite solution avoids all these side effects. It doesn't matter what it's called, just that it contains Sodium Hypo and what concentration. It can be call Bleach, Liquid Chlorine, or Liquid Shock--it doesn't matter.

And whatever you use for chlorination, once it's dissolved into the water, chlorine is chlorine--it's all the other chems added (or not) that makes a difference.

And I am sure there will be a ton more questions and thanks for the help!
Good Luck!