Testing well water

[ChuckD]

I don't intend to actually fill the pool, I know from experience it'll drain the well in about 25 minutes. But I do experience a lot of evaporation (south-facing hillside site, lot's of sun and wind) and inevitably have to add a couple inches per month. For those times I've found I can leave the hose sprayer half-open over night and it usually tops it off safely.

Also, I realize I can take a sample places for a test, but the point of my post was to find out what it is I should be aware of, and how to test for it myself.

Thanks.

C.

(Edit: Also to add, we just got this place last year in March and a water test was done, but it was drawn after the filter and softener. Had I been more experienced at such things I'd have had it done on the raw groundwater).

[savdoc2]

(Edit: Also to add, we just got this place last year in March and a water test was done, but it was drawn after the filter and softener. Had I been more experienced at such things I'd have had it done on the raw groundwater).

We did the same thing and have the same regret.

I misunderstood your original question. I don't have an answer as we haul in our refill water too. I did find last summer that I had very little evaporation when I had the solar cover on. But a lot of evaporation before I got it.

[NWMNMom]

What are you checking for again? I know that our local home supply has a well water test kit that allows you to test for rust, nitrogen, colliform bacteria, lead, etc. It costs about $35 - it does recommend a secondary test if you have positives. We have a shallow well (7' down flowing stream) and live in farm country where farm chemicals and animal by products are of concern. This may not be available everywhere and be regional, but I know we use it annually to be sure we have a safe water supply. They also carry single item kits to check for just one contaminant at a time. (these are not the type you send off for results - you get the results when performing)

Trucking water in for us is not an option as we are too far from any town, we have to use our well to fill the pool. We have a double filter system in the pumphouse and intend to run a double filter inline on the hose as filling.

[ChuckD]

Again, that was in my original post. I'd like to know what I should be testing for (for pool water purposes). I mentioned it does appear I have a rust/iron issue, but I repeatedly hear that especially with well water, I need to know what I'm working with first. I'm hoping someone can tell me what are the common 'trouble-makers' in well water I should test for and if I can do that myself, or does it require a professional test.

(I should also add this is a vinyl lined, inground. No heater, about 22K gallons. Our well is 230' deep.)

C.

[Brock]

Ahhh, I do top off with well water that was ran through the softener in winter. (Our well is over 700 feet deep) Is there any way you can capture rainwater from you roof or something similar? Most places in Hawaii that is how they get all their potable water know I have seen filters / screens to add to a down spout to catch water that way. If you have a garden that might be a better way to go as well.

As far as what to check for, for me it was overall TDS not matter what it was I was told over 2000ppm was to high, not sure what else they actually tested for, I know our iron or tannen is really high as well.

[samendolaro]

The two issues I see is

1) Iron. You don't want to put well water in your pool if you have a high Iton content (Uness you have or want a rusty looking pool. If you have an Iron filter that will remnove the metals and silt. For Iron Filters to work you need a PH over 6

2) The Second issue is bacteria, Now if your well water is untreated (Chlorine or UV) your pool chlorine should be able to take care of it but it may be risky.