Strange test results, help!!

[lisak]

I have a 23000 gallon inground pool with a vinyl liner. I went on vacation for 10 days and left my daughter and her boyfriend to keep an eye on the pool. Apparently they both missed the directive that they needed to add chlorine, especially with 95 plus degree weather and everyone swimming. I came home to a green lagoon. I immediately started dumping chlorine into it and from Sunday to Tuesday it went from dark green to a cloudy blue. I have continued to dump chlorine in and nothing changed. On Thursday, even though I know better, I got poolstored. My numbers were perfect but still couldn't see the deep end at all and only part of the ramp going down to it. They told me it was phosphates and I dumped whatever they gave me in. I have seen no change and after checking on this forum am now banging my head against the wall. I added more chlorine yesterday and ran the numbers this morning. I got the strangest results I have ever seen after 6 years of taking care of this pool.

FC not sure. water never went completely clear and I stopped after 100 drops. It got clearish at about 70 drops which means FC of 35.

CC again not sure. Adding those drops didn't change the color at all.

pH 7.8

Alk when I added the chemicals the water turned blue instead of green, then when I added the chemical to change it pink, it turned yellow instead. that change happened at 12 drops so does that mean my alk. is 120?

I have never seen these odd colors before and now am totally at a loss. Help!! This light brown stuff (almost looks like dustballs) keeps coating the bottom of the pool. I can kind of see the deep end this morning as I could yesterday. But after I scrubbed and vacuumed yesterday we couldn't see the deep end for the rest of the day. At this point, I don't even know what to do.

Thanks for any help.

Lisa

[aylad]

Ok, I have a couple of additional questions for you..
1)what kind of chlorine have you been 'dumping in"? Cal-hypo, dichlor, bleach? What type of chlorine do you normally use for daily chlorination?
2)what is your stabilizer level?
3) what did you add from the pool store for phosphates? (I know you know it wasn't necessary, but at this point we need to know what it was to correct whatever it did to your pool chemistry).


Your pH reading is high, but pH reads falsely high in the presence of high levels of chlorine, so I wouldn't try to adjust that right now. At least you know you're in the ballpark.

Don't worry about the color change on the alk test--I'll have to search the forum to make sure, but I believe it's the presence of the phosphate remover that is changing your colors. The test still works the same, though, so your alk at 120 is fine for now.

So if your water is still cloudy blue, run your filter 24/7, brush the pool at least once a day, vacuum up anything you can see on the bottom, and resist the temptation to put anything else other than chlorine in the pool. Remember that it took more than a day or two to create the lagoon effect, and it's going to take more than a day or two to clear it up. The chlorine that you put in kills the algae, but it is the filter that removes the dead algae (hence the cloudiness) from the pool. Keep an eye on your pressure gauge, clean your filter as it indicates, and be patient--it will clear up

Janet

[lisak]

My CYA is 30 so it's good.

For chlorine I use sodium hypochlorite from the pool store and have dumped in 20 gallons of the stuff since last Sunday with the last 5 gallons going in yesterday. It is easier for me to deal with and cheaper than buying bleach at the store.

The phosphate stuff was Sea Klear phosphate remover (no chemical composition listed on the bottle) and Sea Klear Natural Clarifier (also nothing listed for what's in it). I will do some research through google and see if I can't find out what it is.

Lisa

[lisak]

Oh, I use the 3" pucks for daily chlorination as my CYA is always in the 30 to 50 range and is always at 0 when I open the pool in the spring. Thanks for the help.

Lisa

[lisak]

Link to the phosphate remover:

http://www.halosource.com/userfiles/...Remover(2).pdf


Link to the clarifier:

http://www.halosource.com/userfiles/...Remover(2).pdf

This one doesn't even say what it is, just "trade secret" sigh......

[aylad]

If your CYA is at 30 (I assume you've recently measured it, since the pucks continually raise CYA), then your shock level is 15 ppm, which you should be way over at this point. Try testing again tonight after the sun is off the pool, and again in the morning before the sun hits the pool. If you lose less than 1 ppm of chlorine when comparing those two tests, then you can let the chlorine drift back down to the 3-6 range and continue filtering to get all the dead algae out. If you do lose more than 1 ppm of chlorine overnight, you need to leave the chlorine at above 15 ppm so you can overcome the chlorine demand ( which is probably either residual algae or the phosphate remover).

Janet

[lisak]

I tried that, it is a windows program and I have a mac. It didn't work.

Here are today's numbers:

FC 17
CC 1
pH 7.2
Alk 90
CYA 45

Pool looks great but chlorine is still too high to swim and dropping very slowly. Any idea how long it will take? Thanks again.

[aylad]

OK, try this one...http://www.thepoolcalculator.com/


It shouldn't take more than a day or two in hot sun to bring your chlorine down to swimmable levels. Watch that CC, though, if it goes up (or doesn't go down after a day in the sun), you need to maintain shock level for awhile longer. It will go up and down as a byproduct of people swimming, but if the sun doesn't dispel it, then you're not finished fighting stuff in the water.

Janet

[Watermom]

In a 23K pool, each 3-quart jug of 6% bleach will raise the cl level by 2ppm.

[lisak]

Thanks for the link Janet, and the amount Watermom. Appreciated more than you know!