Checking for a leak

[Watermom]

You are probably right about McGyver. He probably did, but only if it didn't conflict with "Modern Marbles." Actually, our friend Al is -- shall we say -- a little different! I have never known anybody else quite like him, but he is a great guy and a great help here on the forum. He'll come through for you with the info you need about finding your leak. Good luck.

[Poconos]

Hi Folks,
Still experimenting and learning with the new forum software so I hope this works. I said I'd post pics of how I laid a patch at the deep end so here they are. My problem last year were three small slits about 1/2" long within a 2" diameter circle about 8 feet at the deep end where the liner transitions from bottom to wall. I needed to patch it and the water was way too cold to get in and besides, trying to place a patch while swimming/diving, which ain't my expertise, can be a problem. Needed to patch from above. I found that all the adhesives that come in the 'underwater' patch kits are really strong acting and will curl the vinyl patch to the point where you can't place it properly and get a good bond. Also tried various PVC glues. I found stuff at a pool store, Boxer Adhesives #100 in a small can with a dauber for about $9 I believe. Boxeradhesives.com. It's a slow acting adhesive that will not curl the patch but takes quite a while to set and bond fully. For the patch I used a piece of leftover original vinyl liner. I took a 3" paint roller and duct taped that to the end of a 10' PVC pole. I coated the roller with silicone seal and let that set for a couple days. The silicone provides a surface that the adhesive won't stick to and also gives somewhat of a better grab when working underwater. Took a piece of plain plastic sheeting and siliconed one side except for a small section in the middle where I'll stick the vinyl patch with double sided tape. The plastic sheet is way bigger than the patch. In the pic the black tape at the corners helps seeing it when underwater so you can position it properly and center the patch. Siliconing the sheet will prevent excess glue that will spread out of the patch area from sticking to the plastic sheet. Not much sticks to silicone seal. The plastic sheet and patch are folded around the paint roller and held in place with big paperclips. Procedure is to goop the patch, use a lot of glue, then use the pole to position the patch above the target area to be patched. With this glue you have some time. When centered, press the patch against the liner and hold it for at least 30 seconds, probably a minute, before moving anything. This lets the glue somewhat stick the patch and liner together at one point. Then pull the string to release the paperclips and free the plastic sheet and patch assembly. Use the roller to press the patch into place and squish excess glue. As I said above, excess glue will not stick to the plastic sheet because of the layer of silicone seal. In my case I then dropped a pillow case sandbag onto the plastic sheet and patch and left it there for a week. The string on the plastic sheet lets you pull the sheet off after the glue has cured and water has loosened the double sided tape. Patch has been in place for a year and shows no signs of peeling.
Have Fun Patching.
Al
(ajs-1)

[sryan]

Al,
Thanks for the pics...really helps to see your "invention"! I will probably do this when I open this spring since it will be a long time fix.

SR