Hope the above is helpful.
My readings are:
TDS: 400
CYA: 35
This is a good starting place. If you find that your chlorine burns off too fast in the sun then bump it up a bit.
TC: 0
FC: 0
pH: 7.8
Alk: 80
Adj. Total Alk: 69 (explain please)
It means the contribution to the alkalinity from cyanurates is removed. It is not a needed correction under most circumstances. In your cast the difference is about the resolution of the TA test in the Taylor K-2006 so it's pretty meaningless at lower CYA levels. It is roughly 1/3 the CYA reading subtracted from the TA when the pH is above about 7.4 and 1/4 the CYA reading when the pH is lower than 7.4. It really only becomes important on a pool with very high CYA chlorinated with trichlor (which you would be sure to have if you listen to the advice of the Bioguard dealer that is testing your water.
Hardness: 95
Optimizer +: 1 (explain please)
This is Bioguard's brand name for their (expensive) borax. It is used as an algaestat and water conditioner at a concentration of 30-50 ppm in a chlorine pool. For more info there is a thread in the China Shop about borates.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=4712
Quat: 0
This is algaecide.
I went to the store and purchased 25 1lb. boxes of Great Value baking soda and 4 of the 1.42 gallon jugs of bleach. All of that has been added at this point. My concern is: is the CYA level being on the low end of acceptable (35) going to allow the chlorine to dissipate more rapidly than it would if I raise the CYA with some stabilizer?
Thanks!
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