Crack in Hayward Super pump housing wth pics

Hayward EC-75 and Super Pump of unknown HP. The filter is brand new but the pump is 10-15 years old.

My pump has been having some performance issues. Seems like an air leak in the
system somewhere, could this be the cause? Also the concrete around the pump base is always wet (but not soaked). The crack is inside the pump housing
in the wall that separates the basket from the pump motor. Do I need to replace
the pump housing, or can I fix it with putty or epoxy?

I am currently replacing the diffuser gasket and housing gasket, but I can't get to the seal because the screws have rusted over and I can't get the rear cover off the pump motor.

Pump housing from above:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J...73%2520web.jpg

A closer shot of the crack:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...77%2520web.jpg

And a shot from the motor side of the pump housing:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...74%2520web.jpg

Hi Bob;

FYI: For the protection of other PF users, live links are a feature only available to established subscribers, and long term users.

But, I looked at your crack -- it's definitely in the suction section of the pump casing, and appears to extend as a hairline all the way to the exterior. So, if it's not allowing air in yet, it will.

However, it looks like your pump may have run dry, which can mean problems elsewhere. Given all the other pump issues, it seems like there are three questions you need to answer:

Q: Could someone repair my pump? A: Probably. Given the right epoxy (NOT Pool Putty!), a die grinder with a carbide burr, and a lot of time and patience, I probably could -- if there are not cracks in the threaded areas.

Q: Could you repair that pump? A: Given that you have to ask, probably not, at least not in any amount of time or $$ that makes sense.

Q: Should you repair that pump? A: Unless you've got overwhelming budget issues, I'd say it's time for a new one. 10+ years is a good lifespan for a non-commercial pump.

PoolDoc

Thanks for your input! No worries about reviewing the links, I know that security is a big concern for forums like this. I just thought the pics were important to understand the crack.

I would like to attempt to repair the pump housing if the alternative is a new housing/motor anyway. Can you recommend a putty to use, and is a die grinder really necessary or could I use a regular metal file or rough sandpaper?

Replacing the pump may be a challenge as the info for the motor has long since worn away by the elements and my late father is the only one who would know for sure what HP it is. It is a 20'x40' in ground pool, ten feet deep, piped with 1.5" plumbing and a Hayward Perflex EC-75 filter (brand new, replaced an old EC-60 this season).

Thank you very much for your help!

I am trying to replace the seal assembly on my Hayward Super Pump. Two of the three rear screws came out easily, but the third is locked in and when I try to take it out it slowly stripping the screw head. I have tried lots of WD40 to no avail. Can I drill the screw out if I am careful not to let the drill go in too deep? I definitely do not want to drill the capacitor in there!

You have a Hayward SP26xx model pump -- see here:
http://www.haywardnet.com/inground/p...m?ProductID=10

Regardless of anything else, with 1.5" piping you are limited to about 40 GPM. I don't know what other piping you have, so I can't be sure, but a Hayward SP2607X10 should do fine. If you aren't budget constrained, a two speed SP2607X102S will save quite a bit over time, especially with a DE filter.

On your existing pump, I'd just knock the head off the screw and be done with it. Trying remove a rusted steel screw from an aluminum pump end (what it probably is) is not the best task to spend time on, when 2 screws will still hold your pump end bell on.

PoolDoc

PoolDoc thanks so much for your help. Thanks also for combining the post about the screw with this one.

I reassembled the pump housing and motor with a new diffuser gasket and housing gasket. I filled the reservoir with water and just watched it. Sure enough, slowly water started to come out from under the pump housing. Whether it is the crack in the pump housing or a failed mechanical seal there is definitely a leak in this pump. I am going to take your advice and replace the pump entirely.

The most I can make of what's left of the model# is SP XXX5-7-1-M. At least that's what I think it says. I realize this means it should be the 3/4 HP model, but the store we bought it from recommends the 1.5HP for this pool and my mother insists we bought the 1.5HP model.

PoolDoc, do you have any links that explain how to calculate feet of head?

Please don't succumb to the "Bigger Pump" scam. If you ran FINE with a 1hp for years you don't need more. The smallest 2 speed Hayward sells is a 1 hp SuperPump. I have this and it's been running for 8 years.

How big is your pool (did I miss that?)? I have 20,000 gallons so...unless you have a much bigger pool you won't need more than that.

Thanks for the help Carl! Here is all the info I have been able to collect about the pool. Again my dad was the man who knew everything about it so if I have missed anything just let me know and I will try to find out for you.

The system: A Hayward Perflex EC-75 with a Super Pump of unknown HP.

The pool: 20 feet wide x 40 feet long, 3 feet deep in the shallow end and 10 feet deep at the deep end. In ground, vinyl liner, I have heard estimates that it is about 40,000 gallons but I do not know that for sure.

The plumbing: The outer diameter of the piping I see is 5 3/4" in circumference, so I calculate it is 1.83" in outer diameter and I ASSUME it is 1.5" inner diameter. I estimate the length of pipe (underground so I cannot directly measure it) is 52 feet on the return line and 36 feet on the skimmer line. There is one more line, a submerged intake in the deep end but we never use it (this is roughly 15 feet from the pump).

I know it is hard to determine what kind of pump is needed, but any help is much appreciated because we don't have a lot of money. I would really like to get the right pump and not have to worry about it in the future.

Many thanks,
Bob Jersey

That's a pretty big pool but it is 1.5" pipe so you're pump size is limited by that. I wouldn't want to go with the larger pump with that pipe.
Al

Thanks Poconos. My real concern is the length of the plumbing (feet of head) as I have not been able to find how to definitely calculate this. For example I don't know if I should count the return line in the total feet of plumbing, since it is after the pump. If I only count the skimmer to the pump the plumbing may be as little as 36-40 feet, but if I cant the return line as well then it could be as much as 90 feet of plumbing!

Once I know if I can use just the skim line or if I need to use both then I can see what size pump I will really need.

I am stuck between the 1HP and the 1.5HP. The 1HP is rated 39GPM at 50 ft head, and the 1.5HP is rated 53GPM at 50 feet. These are both pretty close to the 1.5inch pipe max of 44GPM per minute, and well below the 80GPM max of the EC-75 filter. I guess I am just worried about breaking the pipes if the pump is too strong.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bobjersey

Thanks Poconos. My real concern is the length of the plumbing (feet of head) as I have not been able to find how to definitely calculate this. For example I don't know if I should count the return line in the total feet of plumbing, since it is after the pump. If I only count the skimmer to the pump the plumbing may be as little as 36-40 feet, but if I cant the return line as well then it could be as much as 90 feet of plumbing!

Once I know if I can use just the skim line or if I need to use both then I can see what size pump I will really need.

I am stuck between the 1HP and the 1.5HP. The 1HP is rated 39GPM at 50 ft head, and the 1.5HP is rated 53GPM at 50 feet. These are both pretty close to the 1.5inch pipe max of 44GPM per minute, and well below the 80GPM max of the EC-75 filter. I guess I am just worried about breaking the pipes if the pump is too strong.

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The feet of head that the pump develops is a differential between the suction and discharge. So, to figure this you need to figure the total elevation change between the pool level and the pump suction (a static head) plus the piping pressure drop in the skimmer line (the dynamic head) and then add that to the same calculation on the discharge side (static elevation change plus dynamic drop through pipe and equipment).

But...don't confuse feet of piping with feed of head. The expected pressure drop through 100 feet of 1.5" piping at 45 gpm is 5.85 psig or 13.5 feet of head. The other equipment in the system will overshadow this.

In practice, the suction-side elevation change and the dynamic drop through equipment on the discharge side have the biggest effect.

I wouldn't worry about breaking the piping unless you know of some reason that it was poorly assembled. Even a conservative pressure rating for the piping of 75 psig equates to 173 feet of head.

I emailed Hayward my pool specs and they told me that I should purchase the 1.5HP model (SP2610X15), so that decides it I'm definitely going with the 1.5. Thanks SO MUCH to everyone who helped out here, have a great summer!

Ah, well. I am fixing photo links to make them permanent (so these threads are still useful in 2013 and after), and saw this thread again.