New Pool Owner With High Iron

I posted in another section before I saw this one, so forgive me for the double-post. First, I want to let you all know how much you've all taught me in the week that I've been studying the site! I hope you can shed some hope on my situation as well.

I purchased a house with a 24' above ground pool, with a Waterway 1 hp pump and sand filter.

I paid someone to come open the pool and show me how to work everything. When we opened the pool there was 1.5' of (clear) water, and was advised to fill by my hose (well water) - after 3 days, the lady came back and got the pump/filter working and the first thing she did was shock - and I ended up with poop soup!

I took a sample to the pool store and I was first advised to use 2 bottles of Pool Magnet and Sparkle Up. After 36 hours, very little color change (they also had me use Balance 100 and Ph Up for balancing the chemistry), so I called the pool store and they recommended 3 more bottles of Pool Magnet (because my iron 'was at a 3'). That was Friday. I added that and continued to filter 24/7 (had some trouble with Pool Magnet mucking up the filter). Saturday I found a Slime Bag and hooked that to the discharge hose from the filter and laid it in the pool.

Sunday, I took another sample to the pool store, who said chemically I was where I needed to be (except for chlorine and CYA since those had to be low because of the Pool Magnet) and I was advised to shock. I was too scared of seeing that brown again - because my iron was still at a 2 (not sure what their scale is). So I decided instead to use an algaecide and a bottle of Iron Away and continue to filter. I took the Slime Bag off on Monday, fearing lack of circulation in the pool.

Today is Tuesday and I checked my levels this am using a strip test (sorry - was told these were adequate, and didn't realize til I found you - which was obviously too late on so many levels - that they're not). The strip test showed my Ph was high, so I put a squirt of Muratic acid (leftover from previous owner) - probably a cup or 2. Tested 2 hrs later and it was better and everything else looked good (again, except for CYA and Cl).

So, I have seen progress, I just need to know if I'm ready to proceed somehow. Since last Wed, we went from a lovely shade of opaque cesspool to Tue a lovely clear-ish shade of green. Does that color just mean I need to shock or that I have more metals in there still?

Should I put DE in my filter to help things along (Out of Sparkle Up)? And is Pool Magnet a chelator or a sequestrant and once these metals are inactive, can I shock? And do I have to invest in truckloads of Pool Magnet for the rest of the season to stay clear (if I ever get clear)?

Do I just wait to add chlorine and cya until my metal levels are 0? Sorry for all the questions...

Hello, and welcome to the forum!!

My first suggestion is that you post a complete set of numbers, including FC and either TC or CC; pH, TA, CYA, and metals. You can get those printed out from the pool store. They will help us give you good, useable, accurate advice. However, STOP buying the stuff they're selling you! Throwing stuff at the pool is going to make your situation worse, instead of better. In the meantime, if you can get a good drop-based kit and do your own testing, it will save you hundreds in money, time, and aggravation. The Taylor K-2006 is the one we recommend, and can be ordered online several places but the best two prices I've seen are at http://www.amatoind.com or at http://www.spspools-spas.com. WalMart sells a 6-way drop-based kit for about $15 that can be used in the meantime, but with iron in your water, you're gonna have to be very careful about not getting lazy and keeping your chems in check.

The really simple answer to your question is that the metals in the water are going to have to be "bound" by a sequestrant for the lifetime of your pool. The metals don't filter out; rather, it's a matter of keeping them in solution in the water to keep them from "dropping out" and causing staining. This is going to require re-applications of a sequestrant on a regular basis, and is also going to require tight control over your Chlorine and pH levels to keep your pool from staining.

Marie (mbar) is our resident metals and stains expert, and I'm sure she'll be along soon to give you specific answers to your questions, but in the meantime I'd like to encourage you to take some time and read some of the threads in the metals forum to get an idea of what you're dealing with in terms of maintenance. Also, take a look at this thread where Marie talks about Ascorbic acid treatments to remove staining. Although this doesn't directly apply to you at this particular time, the latter part of the post does discuss pool water maintenance with metals and may help you understand what's required to keep it looking good.

Janet

Thank you so much for replying!

Since my last post, I took a sample of water to the pool store. CYA and CL are 0 because I had to keep them out while using the Pool Magnet/Iron Away (sequestrants or chelators - not positive which). My PH was 7.3 and he said everything else was 'in check'. My iron was at 0.5 (and I was so excited)! He suggested I shock. I took a bucket of water from the pool and added (probably too much) shock - it's cloudy white right now and I won't shock the pool if it remains that way over the next hour. I'd rather lose a bucket of pool water rather than start from scratch and adding another $120 of Pool Magnet because I shocked the pool before it's ready.

He also told me once my iron was inactive completely, I wouldn't have to maintain with Pool Magnet (but I'm learning through this forum that pool stores can't be trusted) - unless I add more iron-laden water - but I learned my lesson (as usual, the hard way) and bought a prefilter.

Shocking the bucket full of water was good thinking--but what did you shock it with? Keep in mind that "shock" is a verb, meaning to raise your chlorine level, instead of a noun, i.e.a particular product. Many stores package either dichlor or cal-hypo and call it "shock", which really confuses people. IF it was cal-hypo you used, it's famous for not dissolving very quickly and can cause milky water problems, especially if you use too much.

Good idea on the prefilter, too........

The words "in check" from any pool store personnel are worthless--you need solid numbers. If they can't give them to you, then you SURELY don't want to take their advice!! You really need a number for alkalinity..........

Janet

Hi Janet

Thank you again for checking on me. It' only been a week, but we're so disheartened by what we hoped would bring us big smiles and great fun. We're almost ready to use it as a planter.

Unfortunately, I found you guys after I had been steered in several wrong directions.

I used 1/4 lb (oops) of cal-hypo in a kitty-litter bucket full of pool water. I did see some brown-ish color change and held off on shocking the pool. This am, there's tons of white sediment in the bucket (shock?) and its still very cloudy and when I stir things up - that subtle brown shows through.

Based on some old posts, I put a filter sock on and a Tri-chlor tab in the filter basket, hoping to 'catch' any fallen metals and put them in the filter rather than the pool (hope I understood the science behind that).

Think I should try a bucket of pool water and bleach (couldn't find a calculator to translate pool gallons vs bleach)?

Should I lower my Ph a little, too (it was 7.3 yesterday)?

I'm going to go to Walmart and look for the drop test you suggested and get some HTH metal remover (forget the actual name). A regular poster had recommended it because it's much cheaper than Pool Magnet, and I got the impression it does the same thing.

I really should have paid closer attention in chemistry class!

Part of me is determined to beat this thing and at the same time the other part is ready to drain the sucker and never look back.

Yes, try the bleach/bucket thing. I think pH at 7.3 is OK, but if one of the metal experts reads this they can correct me if they think you should lower it a little more.

Yes to paying attention in chemistry class ---- (can you tell that I am a teacher!;))

And a big NO, NO, NO, to draining the pool and never looking back! :eek::eek:

You're gonna get this thing straightened out and will soon be enjoying this pool. And besides, who needs another planter??!! :D

Good luck.

Hi Watermom and thanks for you help - I need all I can get!

Used a drop-test kit this am. My Walmart didn't have one - I'm in the sticks - but I found one. Ph was in the toilet this am 6.8 or lower (tri-chlor tab from last night - or natural?) and my Alk was sky-high - above 225.

I went to Walmart and a couple other places and got bleach (5 gals) and baking soda and Borax - could only find one small box. I also found poly-algaecide - which I want to do again because I have no cl/cya in yet and I got 2 more quarts of sequestrant that I'm going to toss in and circulate (or should I filter)?

Any idea how much BBB I need at this point (will do the bleach in a bucket first - 1 cup)?

Your pH drop was more than likely just the trichlor. Take it out, and get some Borax in the pool to get the pH back up. This is a priority, since pH below 7.0 can damage your pool, and if your test reads 6.8, it could actually be lower. I'd start with about 3 cups added slowly through the skimmer, breaking up the clumps as you go. Wait 1-2 hours and test again, adding more as necessary. Stop at 7.2-7.4. One of the keys to dealing with metals in the water is to keep the pH on the very low side, but not less than 7.0.

You're obviously not going to need the baking soda this year--it's used to raise alk, and yours is high enough already!

and yes, try about 1 cup of bleach in the bucket of water and check to see if you see staining. If you do, then make sure your pH is at 7.0-7.2, then add more sequestrant until you see the stain lift. AT that point, you should be able to slowly raise your Cl. (Reference the latter part of Marie's post in this link http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=7923

Janet

Thank you so much for all your time and attention!

I had some leftover PH Up in the shed, so I tossed some of that in and changed the pump/filter to circulate.

Pool looks a little hazier today, I'm nervous about a bloom - can/how should I algaecide (used as a verb)?

Also, should I toss more sequestrant in because my iron level last night was 0.5?

I have water and bleach in a bucket (it's 6% bleach) - how long would it take to know if metals are still present? I saw some slight yellowing initially, but the bleach is the $1.50 special and is extremely yellow. ;oP

So, the alk level is not a concern?

With no chlorine and no algaecide, you're probably on the edge of a bloom--if the algaecide you have is Polyquat 60, then I would go ahead and add it, leaving your filter on recirculate.

Regarding the sequestrant, I'm not really comfortable advising you whether or add more or not, or what the effect of the alk is, since this isn't really my area of experience. I do know that the more sequestrant you add, the more chlorine it's going to take to get up to baseline levels when you start raising it--but I'm not sure how much is enough. I've asked Marie to come take a look at this thread. Hopefully she will
be by soon and I'm sure that she can answer more fully for you.

I would think that the metal staining would show up fairly immediately. In the worst case, I guess you could always bring the chlorine up and deal with the stains if they show, but it's an expensive venture and I'd hate to put you through that unnecessarily.

I'm sorry I can't be more help, but I don't have any experience with metals, other than what I've learned from Marie!

Janet

You've been a lot of help Janet. I'm kind of stuck right now until the pH comes up a bit. Gonna go check now.

The bleach water is yellow - but not as yellow as straight bleach. Not sure if it's staining or the bleach itself. Ugh - so confusing. I feel like I'm so close, yet so far away (to be able to shock).

I did put some algaecide in the pool on Sunday because the temp was approaching 90 and the pool is in direct sun. Same scenario today. I thought they were good for a week - but that's probably for a chlorinated pool - not a cesspool! ;oP

pH still reading 6.8 after "pH Up" and one hour of circulation. I added 1.5# of Borax to the skimmer, with pump/filter on "bypass to pool" which I presume is circulate.

I bought algaecide for black algae (which I don't have, but), it was the only one I could find that says poly-something-something-ethylene 60%. I diluted that and added it to the pool, just in case - I don't need to add to my list of problems.

I'm gonna let those 2 circulate for an hour or so.

Still on the fence about shocking vs. adding another bottle of sequestrant. The bleach/pool water concoction was still yellow and had a brown tint to it. It was such a long, expensive road to get from opaque brown to clear-ish green, I think I'd rather fight chlorine levels than metal levels. Even 50 gallons of bleach will cost less than $140 (which is what the sequestrants have cost me so far)

Once I do shock, I know I have to do it slower than those blessed with healthy water. Never having used the BBB method (because I've never owned a pool before this season), how much liquid beach over how much time is 'slow'? And do I bypass to pool (circulate it) or filter it?

Just an update. After Borax, pH too high (7.6-7.8), so I added leftover pH down.

I also decided to add the Iron Away (sequestrant?) rather than start shocking.

I got clouding after algaecide (dead algae?) and would like to filter that for a couple of days to get back to a clear-ish pool, and since I'd be filtering anyway - I decided to treat the trace metals. Hoping to start shocking on Friday. From what I'm reading, I'm probably going to have a hard time getting a chlorine level and I'm guessing the 8 gallons of bleach I bought today is not going to be nearly enough.

Would I have to use the same amount of liquid shock from the pool store?

Does anyone know of anywhere to buy larger bottles of bleach or buy in bulk for the cheapest price?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by labdi01

Just an update. After Borax, pH too high (7.6-7.8), so I added leftover pH down.

I also decided to add the Iron Away (sequestrant?) rather than start shocking.

I got clouding after algaecide (dead algae?) and would like to filter that for a couple of days to get back to a clear-ish pool, and since I'd be filtering anyway - I decided to treat the trace metals. Hoping to start shocking on Friday. From what I'm reading, I'm probably going to have a hard time getting a chlorine level and I'm guessing the 8 gallons of bleach I bought today is not going to be nearly enough.

Would I have to use the same amount of liquid shock from the pool store?

Does anyone know of anywhere to buy larger bottles of bleach or buy in bulk for the cheapest price?

---

I've been reading through this thread and realize that you're hoping for a response from the forum's 'chemical expert' but my non-expert input is this: slow down a bit, don't continue to add chemicals at this rate! It can be a bit complicated when you have both metals and a possible algae bloom simultaneously, but I think you'll get better long term results by treating one thing at a time. Sequestration of metals, as I'm sure you know, does not actually remove the metals from the water, so staining can recur. If you have good fill water you might want to drain some of the pool while these metals are in solution and the pH is in range.

Then focus on shocking if that is needed.

Hi - thanks for your time!

I thought I was treating one thing at a time. Metals. pH has to be low, can't add chlorine til levels are zero, so I'm trying to stave an additional issue of algae while I work the metals out. (and I do realize I'm not getting rid of the metals, just the water staining of the metals).

My fill water is from my well, which is riddled with iron. Had I known what a nightmare metals can be in a pool ahead of time, I never would have filled it from my well.

I've since purchased a pre filter to fit the hose (looks like a pillow in the shape of a bat) - but can I take confidence that it will remove all metals before getting to the pool?

Even if I partially empty/refill at this point, I'll still be dealing with metals for the life of the pool, no?

I can't completely empty because the liner could shrink. What are your thoughts on emptying to 1.5', refilling over the course of a few days with the prefilter, then emptying down 1.5 and refilling - think it might reduce my metals down to a point that I won't have to spend $140 in sequestrants? Makes some sense to me saying it - but what I don't know could fill a warehouse.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by labdi01

Hi - thanks for your time!

I thought I was treating one thing at a time. Metals. pH has to be low, can't add chlorine til levels are zero, so I'm trying to stave an additional issue of algae while I work the metals out. (and I do realize I'm not getting rid of the metals, just the water staining of the metals).

My fill water is from my well, which is riddled with iron. Had I known what a nightmare metals can be in a pool ahead of time, I never would have filled it from my well.

I've since purchased a pre filter to fit the hose (looks like a pillow in the shape of a bat) - but can I take confidence that it will remove all metals before getting to the pool?

Even if I partially empty/refill at this point, I'll still be dealing with metals for the life of the pool, no?

I can't completely empty because the liner could shrink. What are your thoughts on emptying to 1.5', refilling over the course of a few days with the prefilter, then emptying down 1.5 and refilling - think it might reduce my metals down to a point that I won't have to spend $140 in sequestrants? Makes some sense to me saying it - but what I don't know could fill a warehouse.

---

Well, I think you're on track with this idea... but draining a liner pool (in-ground, right?) to 1.5 feet is a chancy proposition in comparison to draining a gunite pool in a dry climate. If this were my pool I think I would test the effectiveness of the pre-filter first. If it worked to contain a significant portion of the iron, I'd do multiple partial drains --- not down to 1.5 feet but perhaps just 12" (from the top) at a time. You could also drop a solar cover or large plastic sheet so that it roughly separated the incoming flow from the outflow and pump to waste while infilling on the other side of the sheet with your pre-filter in place. Other members who have experience with this may want to comment on this procedure.

My pool is actually an above-ground pool (24'). If I'm understanding you correctly, you think I should fill from an opposite point from the 'drain'?

You guys are all so wonderful and I thank you for any suggestions and ideas you may have. Here I was thinking I could fill, shock and swim all in one day! CLEARLY a newbie!

I've heard others using towels, pillow-batting contraptions, socks and the like to capture all the metals - but it's too late for that for me, since I've got most of them in suspension now!

hi, sorry i haven't been on the forum - I'm in texas visiting my sister. If it were my pool, this is what I would do.

First if your ph goes back down to low, you can turn your return jets up. This will lower the alkalinity while raising the ph naturally. You want you ph 7.2 to 7.4. I would start to add bleach. Do not add anything other than the algacide. Just start adding the bleach slowly. Take it up to shock levels. If the stains start, add more sequestering agent. I am afraid that the pool is starting an algae bloom, and you are just fighting a losing battle. You can deal with the stains when you know that the water is sanitized. When adding water add it through the skimmer - so it goes through the filter first. It sounds like you should have enough sequestering agent in the water. See the problem is that sequestering agent uses up chlorine, and so does algaecide. So you will have a very big chlorine demand with all the chemicals you have in the water. The chlorine breaks down the sequestering agent and algaecide, so that is why you always have to add a maintenance dose of these chemicals. I know it sounds confusing, but the most important thing is to get the water sanitized. You can swim with stains, but not with unsanitized water.

1. Start to bring the chlorine up to shock level, which if you have no cya will be 10ppm.

2. Keep the pump running 24/7

3. You will have to keep adding chlorine or keep a puck in the skimmer because if it is sunny out the chlorine will just get eaten up with sun because you have no cya. Pucks have cya in them so they are stabilized chlorine, or you can add cya (stabilizer)

4. If you add a puck, your ph will go down, so you keep your returns up to aerate the water, which will bring the alkalinity down while raising the ph. I the ph goes below 7.0 add baking soda to go up 2ppm.

You will have to have a little patience with the staining. If you get the water in balance to swim, and you still have stains we can deal with them later.

I know this is long and confusing, but please feel free to ask any other questions you have - I am sorry it took so long for me to answer, but I will be checking the forum from Texas:)

I'm honored, that you replied.

We put 6 gallons of bleach in, turned the light (return jet to pool) to the surface to aerate (that's all we have). Tested pH - it was low. Added 1 cup Borax to pool. Gonna let it filter all night. Good start? Should I throw in sequestrant (HATE problem water - in and out). I'll apply POP. Thank you so much! You are Pool Master!!!!!!!!!!!

Good Morning, Marie.

This morning the pool is definitely clearer, but the color is darker (yellow/brown). The pH is really high (in the 8s).

Can't tell what the chlorine level is - the only drop-test I could find from local non-pool-stores is a "4 in 1 test kit" and when testing for chlorine, the color-comparison range are yellows and our test came out dark orange - the test instructed to compare chlorine color within 10 seconds, then wait 5 mins and if there's a drastic color change, superchlorination is required. It remained dark orange.

I had a little bit of muratic acid and added that to get the pH down so I can add metal sequestrant later on.

I also turned the return jet, to stop aeration.

You should not be honored to hear from me, I am only a pool owner that has dealt with metals for 10 years! Thanks for the complement:) I would still use the aeration method since your alkalinity is so high. Just keep watch, and add muriatic acid to bring the ph back down as it rises until the alkalinity is in range. Sequestering agent also brings down ph, and using pucks in the skimmer basket will add cya and lower the ph. It just goes to show how everything you add to the water reacts against each other, that's why it is so important to put the least amount of chemicals in the water:D You will know that there is not anything growing in your water, or anything that needs to be broken down, when the chlorine remains steady overnight. Once you hit this milestone you can work more on what is going on with the stains. Do you have any calcium in your water? I know that vinyl liners don't need calcium, but I have found that in my pool some calcium works to keep the staining away. I am not sure if it would be the same in a vinyl liner (i have fiberglass). Once you are sure there is not any algae, we can move ahead from there. As for the sequestering agent, it seems that you have put a lot in your water already. You can try some more to see if it will do anything for the color now, but sequestering agent uses up chlorine too, so if you are dealing with algae (I think you are since the water cleared with the chlorine), I would just continue doing the chlorine until it holds steady overnight. I will check back later to see if you have any questions. Keep the faith - you will have a clear pool soon!

Hi Marie - thanks again for sharing your experience/knowledge with me!

I took another sample to the pool store this am because my drop-kit is less than stellar (I ordered the Taylor kit this am).

He said all my chemicals were in check - pH was at 7.6, so I'll still get that down. My TA was 130 and my CL was 4 (he said that was a tiny-bit high and I forgot to ask for FC and CC). He advised no more CL (I remain confused about everything I read about shock levels to 15 and keeping it there...)

When you say staining are you referring to the water or to the liner. I have no liner/filter/ladder staining - just the water is brownish/yellow with maybe a teeny hint of green. It is clear - though there seems to be some 'interference' with the clarity, not sure if it's sediment or just the color - if any of that makes sense.

Pool-Store-Guy told me not to add more sequestrant, saying once metal reacted with the CL, the best way to get the color out is filtering using Sparkle Up - so I purchased a 10# bag of D.E. and put 1.5# through the skimmer and I'll monitor the pressure and backwash as needed.

Please advise if I should be doing something different.

Correction: I put 3/4# of D.E. in - not 1.5#.

I am now getting staining on the skimmer and light - and I forgot to mention that my metals level was at 0.5 this am as well. Presuming the bleach knocked metals out of suspension...

You need to stop listening to pool store guy. Marie is giving you solid advice, and can help you get it straightened out, but much of what she's going to advise you to do goes against standard pool-store advice. Remember, they're in the business to make money, and most of them don't own or maintain pools--they regurgitate what they've been told by the chemical reps. Marie knows her stuff!

One quick correction--in an earlier post she said to add baking soda if your pH goes down to 7.0 to raise it to 7.2--she meant Borax (which you caught already). Just wanted to eliminate any confusion. You don't want to add baking soda because it raises TA, and yours is already too high.

Janet

I'm not doubting Marie at all. I was only relaying what I was told when I went to have my water tested. I was excited about the fact that I could actually swim in my pool based on chem levels - even though it doesn't look that great right now.

I was OK with getting the D.E. because I'd read several posts from other advisers in here that use it regularly with their sand filters and I wanted to try it.

I actually trust this pool guy - he doesn't try to push product on me. I know he actually owns a pool and his family owns the construction portion of this particular pool business. I just don't think he's as experienced with metals that the regular posters on this forum are. For example, he told me my pH was fine - and it is for a pool with no metals - but I'm still lowering it like Marie advised. I've done what Marie has instructed of me - and some of it matched what the pool guy told me to do (adding chlorine before color is gone, not adding more sequestrant, etc). I've even walked out of there without product - because he told me I didn't need anything.

My relaying what was said was in no way to contradict what anyone here has advised - I guess I wanted confirmation from the forum because I was happy about what I was told and maybe a part of me is 'testing' the pool guy - because it's always nice to hear that you haven't been bamboozled and there really are some honest people left in retail.

OK,
Let's start again. Get us a full set of test numbers, including metal content. DO NOT ADD ANYTHING UNTIL THEN!

Your pool guy told you your FC was too high at 4ppm. In my judgement, that immediately disqualifies him to offer any advice. You cannot clear up a cloudy pool if you live by the rule that 3ppm is as high as you should go. 3-6ppm is normal FC for pool maintenance when your CYA (stabilizer) level is 30ppm.

You cannot pick and choose between contradicting advice. Either he's right or we are. You have to decide. MBar knows the metal problems better than anyone here with the possible exception of Chem_Geek or PoolDoc.

Tell the guy at the pool store you NOW need his help with the testing to monitor your water (after all you bought stuff from him--it's the least he can do) but don't buy ANYTHING ELSE until we see the results.

CarlD

Hi Carl,

Thanks for you message.

Here are my numbers:

pH - 7.4
TA - 130
Cl - 4
FC - 4
CYA - 0
Iron - 0.5

I have had stabilizer in since last night when Marie advised I start the bleach - it's not completely dissolved yet (wondering if it takes a bit of time to register - ?). I haven't added anything else since last night (except D.E. in my sand filter).

The water looks a little darker brown to me and it remains pretty clear - but not sure if it looks darker because the sun is directly over the pool and out - and wasn't this am
(cloudy all am).

Thanks again to everyone for their time and help. I'm just new and anxious to swim.

OK,
That's better.

I'm not the metal expert but I THINK an iron level of .5 isn't a problem. MBar knows better.

CYA takes DAYS to dissolve, and the older it is, the longer it takes! You may be a week before you get a good reading.

You STILL need to follow Mbar's advice and get your FC up to shock level (at least 10ppm) and keep it there to fight what you are growing. I would go as high as 15ppm because when your CYA begins to show, that will be the shock level. She said increase it slowly, and I would do so.

Please go back and re-read her post. I think it's still what you need with my few comments added.

Marie, if you could confirm my advice......Thanks!

Thanks again, Carl!

Any advice on how much more bleach I should add today? I added 6 gallons yesterday, which brought me up to 4. (too fast? Not sure what 'slow' is and although anxious, I don't want to make things worse).

You water may have a greenish tint because there is some staining. Blue from the color of the liner, with the yellow stains can make the water look green, but so can algae:eek: Watermom is right - I meant Borax not baking soda. However your alkalinity is fine now. Your cya will take a while to measure in the water, so that is why I suggested to leave a puck in the skimmer so that some stabilized chlorine will in the water while the sun is out. It will be impossible to keep your water at shock levels on a sunny day without cya. Until your water holds chlorine within 1ppm overnight, then you are fighting something in your water, and you will end up with another algae bloom. I would suggest putting in a little calcium - sometimes it can help clear up the colored water. But most important keep the pool at shock level which is at least 10- 15ppm like Carl said until it holds overnight. It is true that getting the water balanced and without stain is tough for a while, but once it is done it is easier to maintain. Water is so sensitive to the chemicals, and it is hard to be sure how it will react to the different ones that are already in the pool - That's why we suggest getting the water sanitized first - then balance the rest. It is why it is so good to have a good test kit - this way you can take care of your own water. Try to relax - you will be swimming in a nice clean pool:) One gallon of bleach will raise the chlorine by 5ppms in 10,000 gallons of water.

Thank you so much Marie for checking in on vacation. I hope you're having a great time with your sister.

So, should I add one gallon of bleach at a time (and how much time in between gallons) - sorry I'm a little dense.

I did put a puck in the skimmer like you said - should I replace each time it's dissolved?

I ordered the Taylor 2006 test this am - not sure when I'll have it - I'll bring water to pool store (30 mins away) every couple of days if that's acceptable). It seems the drop test I have is way off from pool store testing.

You test your water as many times a day as you can (2 at the minimum -- more is better) and each time you add enough bleach to get back to shock level.

How high does your chlorine tester that you currently have go up to on the scale? 5?

You're gonna have to test it yourself everyday -- not just every few days at the pool store. There is a dilution method that you can use to make your tester go higher than 5 which is what I expect the limit is on yours.

Take one part pool water and one part distilled water. Mix together and put some of this in your test vial. Test as usual and then multiply the result by 2. If this doesn't go high enough to help you, take one part pool water and two parts distilled water, test and multiply the result by 3, etc. This method is not super accurate but will at least get you by until your kit arrives.

Remember, each time you test, add however much bleach you have to (all at one time, don't have to wait) to get back up to shock level.

Hope this helps and I hope you get your kit soon so it will make it easier for you to clear your pool.

One more thing. Take a deep breath. Now take another one. Relax. This is gonna be cleared up before you know it and you'll be enjoying your pool!

Thanks Watermom. Woke up to coffee-brown pool this am. Several heavy sighs and serious thoughts of just draining the thing. Came to the Pool Forum, read your post, took some deep breaths and now I'm just hiding from it. I'm out of several supplies (Borax, bleach, distilled water, reliable test kit) and can't restock until this evening. I added cal-hyp just so it doesn't fester all day and, unfortunately, that's all I have in the way of chlorine right now - and I put a puck in the skimmer.

Is Pool-icide a crime??? Kidding - thanks for sticking with me and holding me up through this. The only faith I feel right now in this pool is coming directly from you guys.

Someone posted on the forum a while ago that had very high iron in his well water. I don't have time not to search for it - but you can look through old posts. They said every year they add a strong flocculant and after it circulates they turn off the filter and let it sit for 48 hours. Then they vacuum all the stuff that falls out on the bottom to waste. I will try to find it when I have more time, I am off to a graduation. If someone else remembers the post or wrote the post:D please let us know.

Hi Marie.

I actually found a way to remove iron - really remove it. No more chemicals!!!

We took a 5-gal bucket (Fresh Step kitty litter, plastic bucket). My husband drilled holes all over it, he put a big hole in the lid (to accommodate a hose), got his sump pump, hooked a hose from the output on the pump, stuck the other end of the hose in the hole he made in the lid of the bucket, filled the bucket with pillow stuffing (a whole pillow's worth), put the lid on the bucket, sunk both the pump and the bucket (now connected to each other) in the pool. Some batting came out of the bucket and settled in the skimmer - and 15 hours later, we can see under water across the pool (it was opaque brown when we started this). We pulled out the bucket (and gross brown water flowed from it - it made a yucky cloud in the pool), but we rinsed the stuffing out (kept it in the bucket) and removed the stuffing from the skimmer (BROWN), cleaned it and put the bucket back in the pool and clean stuffing in the skimmer. I can't tell you how absolutely amazing this is.

We were searching for pool-water deliverers and making plans to drain/refill. It was going to cost us another $300 - and that plan wasn't perfect, because we still have to fill from our well.

We weren't sure what to expect - but I can tell you, we didn't expect this.

I'm still shocking like mad. I have to test for all my levels today at the store (no kit yet) and we continue to collect the iron.

I'm so incredibly excited - It's not clear - and it's still brown (diluted iced tea with a hint of green) - but not only can we see the bottom, we can see the bottom across the pool! I'm hoping by tonight, we might actually have clear water!!! Then I can focus on getting in it rather than finding another way to deal with the iron - and all that comes with having iron.

I'm also surprised I haven't seen this mentioned in this thread - so I'm waiting for the bad news about this method from you

Further progress, comments and advice continued under thread called "New Pool Owner with High Iron Manually Removing Iron"...

Locking this one, so the other one can continue....

Janet