Printable View
Just got moved into a house with a pool two weeks ago, water was slightly green and cloudy. First thing I did was had the water tested and the results about made me pass out!
FC: 1.3 ppm
TC: 1.4 ppm
Hardness: 539 ppm
PH: 7.9
Alkalinity 245 ppm
CYA : 350 ppm
Having read this forum for a few days, my levels are extremely out of whack. Any ideas from those that know?
14x28 Gunite IG Approx:14,500 gals ( I think)
Thanks for any help!
I think the first thing I would do is to get the water tested again and see how close the results compare to these. If these are right, you don't really have an option other than to drain and refill. But, you don't want to totally drain a pool, especially if the water table is high or you risk having the pool pop out of the ground like a big boat. Probably want to leave at least a foot of water in there. After you refill, retest and see where that gets you. It may take a couple of times, unfortunately for your water bill. In the past, Al (Poconos) has suggested laying a large sheet of plastic across the pool and draining from the bottom as you are refilling on the top. The plastic acts as a barrier to keep the old water from mixing with the new. By doing it this way, you can probably remove more of the water on the first drain.
Now for your test! ;)
Since you have read the forum for a few days and have probably already learned a lot, can you make a speculation as to how a cya level could get so high? :confused: (Can you tell that I am a teacher?!)
BTW -- Get a good testkit like the Taylor K-2006 so you can do your own testing in the future.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watermom
I sorta figured draining was my only option, plan on investing in the Taylor test kit. I just hadn't heard that high of a CYA number on here. This newbie will prevail, thanks for your advice! :)
I haven't heard of that high of a cya either. That is why I suggested that you might want to have another test. Good luck. Let us know if you have any more questions.
I would be curious how the CYA was tested. Most pool stores, at least in my area, use the plastic cylinder with the plastic graduated spoon that slides up and down and has the black dot in the bottom. The accuracy falls off at about 100 or so. After that, one pool store worker admitted that they just guess. I have learned never to trust one pool store. I get multiple samples and multiple readings. The only down fall is now trying to figure out who to believe. So the more I read on this Forum, You almost have to learn and do your own tesing.
Learning a little about pool chemistry, getting to know your own pool and how it behaves, and doing your own testing are major aspects of the BBB method. There's no "almost" about it :)
The very best investment we can make is in a good test kit, then test all the water you can lay your hands on: tap water, bottled water, your pool, your neighbor's pool, the drinking fountain at church, anything. This is how you learn to use the kit. Follow the instructions, learn to interpret the results in relation to your own pool, trust yourself.
Don't forget to test your fill water so you know what goes in the pool.
This got a little away from the high CYA post at the beginning, my apologies, but I really am passionate about the importance of gaining and using knowledge.
Point well made AnnaK. I agree with learning and understanding not only your pool, but your entire system. I am just starting to learn and understand my new salt system and how everything works in harmony.
Getting back to the High CYA reading, I would almost bet that there is/was a decimal point missing. If Utahpool is close to his 14,500 gallon estimate, someone would have had to dump 30-40 lbs of CYA into the pool to get those readings.
Got a retest at a different store, this time they said 200 ppm CYA. So draining would seem to be my best choice. Going to buy the Taylor kit and do my own. Once I get it sorted out, I'll then resort to the BBB method. The cost of conventional chemicals kills the fun of pool ownership. Thanks for the insight.
Our chemicals are conventional. We simply find them under other labels far cheaper. :)
"Liquid Shock" is either ordinary ultra bleach or double-concentration.
"Total Alkalinity Raiser" is baking soda.
"pH Up!" is washing soda.
And, instead of pH Up! we use Borax so it doesn't impact T/A.
And, instead of Dry Acid or pH Down! we use Muriatic Acid.
B-B-B is a full-time method. You don't have to wait to implement it.
Watermom, I'm seeing several differrent Taylor K-2006 test kits...? Which one is best for an AG pool?Quote:
Originally Posted by Watermom
Good for above-ground or inground swimming pools:
Taylor Complete (FAS-DPD Chlorine) K-2006A
Available for less than $60 through the following suppliers
National Pool Care
Amato Industries
Poolcenter
Swimming Pool Supply Company
Sturev,
Watermom asked me to look into this.
Read this thread:
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=9453
then if you go to the Amato website the kit for $46.25 is what you want. The reagent you will run out of first is the CYA reagent so get a pint bottle of that, listed for around $10 I think. You may also want to get more FAAS-DPD titrating reagent R-0872 for the chloring test. Think this should cover you for a while. The SPS site seems to have a better selection of replacement reagent sizes but doesn't matter where you get them.
Al
Thanks Al & Polyvue! Ordering my kit today...
Cuz, Watermom was really busy yesterday answering a zillion posts! :eek: But, that is great. We are thrilled to have all the new members and are very glad to help with all their questions!Quote:
Originally Posted by Poconos
(Thanks, Al!)