Concrete Patching Question

I'm have a spot in my concrete pool about 12inches in diameter that "weeps" water when the pool is empty.
I want to paint the pool this spring(that's a whole other topic) and this spot is going to be a problem.
It is not running water but the area never dries, so I don't think any kind of paint will cure there.

Is there some kind of product that I can patch this area with to fix this issue??
Tha area is a little rougher than the rest of the surface but probably a maximum depth of about 1/8" so the patch will be pretty thin!

Suggestions??

You will have to enlarge the crack with a diamond blade grinder and use hydraulic cement .This stuff will cure even if it's under water.
That's my 2 cents

Thanks for the reply...
The area is not a Crack but a circular area about 12 inches in diameter.
The area is rougher that the rest of the pool but has a maximum depth of about 1/8 inch.
My concern is that there is not enough area for the hydraulic cement to get a good "bite" on the surface and will not be able to cure because it is to thin to hold back the weeping water...
If I were to chip the area out with a chisel, how deep do I need to make the area to ensure a good bond??
Can I feather out the edges??

Welcome, both of you, to the forum!

As cbucner sagely suggested, hydrolic cement is the way to deal with this.

rtate, you are correct in thinking that the patch needs to be 'locked in' to fully seal. I'd use the chisel (who am I kidding, I'd use the hammer drill off the van :D) to create a locking 'wedge' for the hydrolic cement. The cement itself is good for patching, and works, but you want to have it stay in place ;)

If you need more info on this, please feel free to ask!

I found a product made by "Quickcrete"

hXXp://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/HydraulicWaterStopCement.asp

It does say it can be used on swimming pools..

What do you think??

Use a 4 1/2 inch grinder with a smooth diamond blade the chip free one.
Cut a shoulder about 1 inch deep all around. Make that round hole a square
cut some lines about 1 inch apart parallel with the edge of that square kinda like slicing the inside of that square in 1 inch slices.
Make sure that all these cuts are about the same depth
To do that you can spray paint your blade, the side that you see when you cut
and let it dry a bit and then when you make the first cut the paint will
be removed by the concrete and voila you have a depth marker.
Next time you cut you will see how deep you have to go with the grinder running.
After you done cutting hit the slices perpendicular with hammer and chisel
or a chipping hammer.
They will come out easy and will leave you a nice same depth hole
Then fill with hydraulic cement if wet or other pool rated cement if dry
hope this helps

Thanks cbucner, that is a great help!!
When I look at the instructions for Hydraulic cement they say:
"only mix what you can use in about 3 minutes"
Should I be able to fill a 12' x12" square 1"deep in 3 minutes??

Also Shoud I use a bonding agent between old and new?

In the past I have used the bonding agent instead of water to mix the cement...

Depends on how fast you can mix the stuff and how well you trowel.

I'm a little pressed for time tonight, but will answer more fully tomorrow, if you need.

Thanks . any help/suggestions would be apreciated....

See what time I'm logging on? - This time of year = LONG work days:)

I can mix the stuff in ~ 1 minute (experience allows me to know the water to dry ratio and I use a 'margin' trowel to mix - real time savers) so have ~ the full 3 minutes to apply and trowel the stuff smooth. Folks mixing for the first time tend to take a couple+ minutes to get the mix to the correct consistency, which means it's got to be troweled smooth more quickly.

If you need a primer on troweling techniques, ask - but it will take me a few days to be able to provide that sort of detailed info - but someone else may help in the meantime.

(had you asked this question in Feb, when I was laid off - I'd have spent hours giving the details - maybe you should open your pool earlier LOL)

Thanks Ted I really appreciate the time you are taking to help me :D

I won't be starting this project for a week or so and I am sure that any info. or tips on techniques that you can give me would help tremendously !!
I will keep checking to see if you have had any spare time but please
post only when you have the time...
Thanks again
Robert.

So If my patch is 1 inch deep and about 12' x12" square,
how long does the patch need to cure before I paint over it?
Do I need to acid wash or etch before I paint??

Sorry for the delay :o

The patch should cure 24 hours, then be lightly acid washed to liberate any material that hasn't fully bonded to the pre-existing crete. Then allow ~ a day for the floor to dry before applying the paint

I'm out for the weekend on Friday (class reunion) but will be back next week

Thanks Ted...
When mixing the hydraulic cement would it be better to use the "bonding"
agent instead of water??