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My new Aqua-Rite is not producing chlorine. I noted on the diagnostic that the amperage reading was running about 3.21 to 3.45 which is lower than what is the proper operating level. How do you fix this?
Also, I found it strange that I had to go to the WEB to find our what the correct operating volt and amperage ranges are since the manual that came with the system failed to include them.
I don't remember whether I got this from the Goldline manual or somewhere else:Quote:
Originally Posted by vicar8
Cell voltage 22-25 v when chlorinating else 30-35 v
Current 4.5 - 7.8 amps when chlorinating else 0 amps
The amperage of your SWG cell may be within normal operating limits if the water is cold. On my system 50° F. water and lower levels of salt (~2500 ppm) will cause the applied voltage to read 27.17 volts 3.30 amps.
It seems that both Goldline and Pentair manuals tend to be a bit skimpy on content... very frustrating when you're trying to diagnose a problem with an error code that isn't documented or just attempting to establish a baseline for future troubleshooting.
There should be a warning at those amp levels. If it is a new unit and the water temperature is not too low then I suspect your salt level is too low.
What does the unit report for voltage, salt level and water temperature?
You have the right numbers according to their web page. However my water temp is 90 degrees and my salt level (according to the control box) is 3500 which is, if anything, a little high.Quote:
Originally Posted by polyvue
voltage is usually around 27+ , salt level reads 3500, water temp is 90Quote:
Originally Posted by mas985
Shocked the system, heavily, on advice from pool store. When I dial around 60 the amps read zero. At 100 3.21.
Do not think system is producing chlorine??
Low amps could be caused by calcium scaling or by an aging cell that is almost worn out. Do a visual inspection of the cell plates. If there is any white chalky residue on the plates you have calcium scaling and need to clean the cell. If the plates look clean but the corners are worn away on some of the plates then the cell is aging and probably needs to be replaced.
I agree with the advice given so far:)
I'd just like to welcome both Vicar8 and Jason to the forum!! (Jason, I know you tried to join a few years ago and couldn't - I'm glad you can now be a part of the Pool Forum :cool: :D
Thank you for the welcome.
I am still unclear about the volt and amp readings and what they should be.
Should you clean the cell as soon as you note the lower than normal range amp reading? Is chlorine being produced when the reading is low? Is it enough to keep the pool properly chlorinated? Raising the setting to 100 does not seem to impact the amp reading. Is the amp reading meant to guide you as to when to increase the output?
Is a high volt reading, out of the normal range, something to be concerned with and have to do something to correct it?
Sorry if I am overworking this.
Vicar8, welcome to the forum.
I also have an Aquarite SWG that's 8 years old and I'm on the original cell.
Based on my experience, the lower the amp draw, the lower the salt level. Since you indicated your unit is new, I would call the customer service number on the inside of your control box. 3.21 amps is very low for 3500 salt level and warm water. Some Ting Wong.
Also, the unit operates on 100 minute cycles and the output dial is a direct percentage run time. In other words, if your output dial is 60%, you will generate for 60 minutes, then rest for the next 40. When you dialed your output to 60 and showed no amp draw, your % run time for that cycle had elapsed and were resting. Hope this helps.
A Hayward rep claims my model uses lower amps and all I need to do is add a little phosphate lowering stuff. I am doubtful since the Hayward web page doesn't have anything about another model similar to mine.
Does anyone out there know if he is telling me the truth?
I can give you a few data points that I have logged in the past. I have a T-15-Cell.
87 degrees, 3000 ppm salt, 26 volts, 6.30 amps.
100 degrees, 3000 ppm salt, 25 volts, 7.2 amps.
So at 90 deg, 3500 ppm, the amps should be higher than 7.
What cell are you using?
I have a T-15-Cell currently at 24.2V and 6.4A. Salt is 3500 and 72 degrees.
Like mas985, I'd like to know what cell you're using.
I've used phosphate lowering stuff twice over the last 8 years when phosphates got to 3500+. Basically had an algae bloom with the only evidence being no chlorine residual and that condition kept coming back over a month even though I had shocked repeatedly.
I didn't have time to keep shocking so it worked for me but that's a rare condition. I'll almost bet if you shocked your pool HARD you'll be back in business.
Hope this helps, Tony
Since my "new" system is not operating at the amps or volts normally to be expected I have to conclude that while it may be working to some extent it is not functioning to its optimum. My best guess is I was sold a used or defective system. I will be following up on this with my dealer and if necessary Hayward.
I am particularly upset with being lied to by the Hayward rep who claimed there were 2 T-15 Cels. In response to an inquiry direct to Hayward they said there was only one T-15. I will definitely let Hayward know of this deception.
By the way a phosphate test indicated my level was only 500, which is really not very significant, but anyway I have now added a phosphate remover and a clarifier.
Also, I am still at 3500, 26+volts and 3.2+ amps, temp 86(today).
I am going to ask the dealer for a complete replacement. I have hesitated to open the cel to see if it is calcified or otherwise compromised but will ask him to do so to satisfy my curiosity.
Thanks to everyone for all your help.
TWO T-CELL 15s? That seems odd. Perhaps he meant to say that they have different models with different capacities (I think the "15" just indicates the length of the connection cord, anyway).Quote:
Originally Posted by vicar8
Not sure why some cell manufacturers are so fixated on phosphate levels -- 500 is pretty close to what I have (250 PPB) and I've experienced no issues with my almost 3 year old Goldline Aqua T-CELL-15. Much more problematic would be pool water to which lots of sodium bisulphate (dry acid) has been added, very high calcium and/or out-of-range pH.
It's truly very easy to dismantle the cell for inspectiion -- turn off the power and loosen the two unions at each end of the cell. Hold it up to the light (sun or flashlight) and look for encrustrations. Only do a muriatic rinse/soak (4 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid) if there is obvious build-up on the plates or as a last resort. My Goldline manual suggests using a stick (!) but I've never tried this or needed to.
EDIT Original reported Phosphates at 250 PPM (parts per million). Corrected to PPB (parts per billion). 5-17-10 END EDIT
I can't seem to find the page on which I got the amp and volt specs. Can you help?
Would a t-3 model have different specs than the t-15?
Apparently he(the Rep) was. It has all been a terrible mis-communication. Each of the Aqua-rite models has different proper operating specs. My T-3 ranges are 1.30-3.91 amps and 23.8-28volts.
The Hayward and Goldline manuals really need improvement explaining spec ranges for each product and what they mean as well. All the diagnostic numbers should be fully explained.
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Be aware that specs depend on which model you have. A T-15 has different specs vs. the T-3.
I finally cut through their mis-information and poorly written manual. My system is a T-3 and is working quite well.
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Bottom line.... Hayward really needs to revise their manuals to avoid all the confusion they and untrained dealers lacking knowledge cause.
They appear to have a good product.