Wiring an aquarite

Before i do anything i want to make sure of something and get some clarification.

Three pictures for reference:
Picure A shows the timer with the terminal protector labeling the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump motor wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line)< Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual i read as if it should be wired as such...( aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the pool pump is wired to 1 (Line) terminal. i thought this should be wired to a load terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is from the switch ( that i use to manually turn the pump on an off) the in housing just below the timer box.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is left in the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the pool pump or toggle switch, both have constant power.( i assume the light runs FROM the GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI is.
I do have a remote control to turn on and off the pump/light, is that what that is?

Input?

http://www.gotflop.com/pooltimer2.jpg

Right. I does not make sense. The LOAD should be where the PUMP and AquaRite wires are connected to. Connecting to the LINE (terminal 2) does not make sense as it then provides power to that one line all the time.
LINE 1 and LINE 2 should be where the power wires from the circuit breaker comes in and constantly powers the time clock motor. The timeclock then activates a mechanical switch the finishes the circuit between the LINE terminals and the LOAD terminals.
Again, the LOAD terminals should connect the pump and Aquarite wires....then the ground goes to the green ground lug.

The black box is just a junction box to make the connection from the transformer to the light. You shouldn't have anything other than wires from the light and wires from the transformer, wire nutted together.

Ok, i am going to switch that black lead on line 1 to load 2 and test the switching system first, cant imagine it would hurt anything.
I wonder if this odd wiring scheme has anything to do with the manual switches?
I.E how do those switches bybass the timer mechanism and turn the pump motor on?

Is there any chance this weird wirinf setup could mean the motor is wired for 120?
Is a pentair whisperflo. (1.5)
I havent taken off the protective plate on the motor, what should i look for?
I havent swicth the lead to a load 2 yet.

The part number on the Intermatic Time Clock, T104, indicates that it's for 220 volts. The motor that activates the mechanical switch is specifically 220 volts, so it shouldn't be 120 volts.

I switched the lead to load 2.
Now i can turn the pump on only with the manual lever behind the timer wheel.
If the pump is off (by that lever) i CAN turn the pump on and off using the toggle switch.
The x-10 remote does not work.

Now that i think about it, he "pump switch"( kind of a flat switch) is an x-10 switch.

So the must be some wiring going on somewhere to enable that to work.
I think then i should put that lead back, but wire the aquarite to load 2 and 4.

I would recommend finding out the load capability of the X-10 unit to ensure that you don't over do that device. Most likely you'll have enough amperage on the X10 to connect the pump and Aquarite. Therefore, I would recommend that you connect the Aquarite to the SAME terminals that the pump is connected. Just remember though, that one line is constantly HOT and sending power through it...which means be careful!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Poolsean

I would recommend finding out the load capability of the X-10 unit to ensure that you don't over do that device. Most likely you'll have enough amperage on the X10 to connect the pump and Aquarite. Therefore, I would recommend that you connect the Aquarite to the SAME terminals that the pump is connected. Just remember though, that one line is constantly HOT and sending power through it...which means be careful!

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I have an electrician( who does all the work for a local pool store that i trust) coming this following afternoon to just take a look.
The ratings for the switch should be one it somewhere would guess.
That said, it wont HURT the aquarite to have constant power on one lead all the time then?
I suppose it is only turned on by the flow switch so it should'nt.

i do appreciate all your input.

BND, no problem. Thats what this site is all about. The flow switch is a UL1081 required safety device. Having one line constantly powered will not harm the system.

All set, seems to be working fine, thought salt levels are a bit low.
Going to have that checked again and hopefully be set !
Thanks for all the help Poolsean