Church pool RE-construction

I've made references to this church pool rebuild in other threads but will try to focus future discussion here. For background, see thread titled,Re: Filter sand, a gritty question. I don't know how to quote it here but the last posting in that thread gives a broad idea of this DIY project.
Question of the day; As we enlarge our pump house to incorporate new piping, we want to add floor level exhaust fans to clear the room of chlorine gases. Should we be concerned about rapid corrosion of the fans by the chlorine?
Hal

Are you planning on running the fans 24hrs a day? If you are I would mount the ffans so that they blow fresh air into the building and have an open vent for it to exhaust somewhere on the other side of the room. That way the fan is seeing fresh air as opposed to using the fan to pull the chlorine contaminated air through the fan.

No, I don't think the fans would run 24/7. Probably just while someone was working in the pump room. We were thinking of using 90 minute timers to control them. It's just a cinder block walled room.
Hal

New question, same project... Subject: Plastering The last step before refilling the pool will be a replastering job. We're considering doing the sandblasting ourselves to save money. Any comments on that idea? How about it, Mr. Gutierrez? Also, there are a couple of large(12"-15" dia.) spots where the plaster is worn away, exposing the gunite. We figured to apply a thin coat of hydraulic cement to those areas, but one plaster company I talked to said it wasn't necessary, that their 3/16" final coat would be sufficient. Does that sound right or should we go ahead and make a hard, smooth surface below the plaster coat? Thanks
Hal

Well, I've met with a couple of plastering companies and have gotten answers to my questions in the previous post, so now we'll move on....
QUESTION OF THE DAY: In the 6' end of the pool there is a 'diving well', We've decided to fill it in because diving is no longer allowed. It's approximately 10'X12' and 3' deep. What would be the best material to use for fill?? We figured to fill and compact it to within a few inches of the rest of the pool floor and top it with shotcrete. Then when the pool is replastered, the floor would be smooth and the circulation problem presented by the diving well would be remedied. Thanks;)
Hal

I suggest making sure you prep the surface of the old cement before pouring the new material to fill in the deep end. Sand blasting and in some applications, chipping the surface, allows a better bond and removes all loost plaster/cement. Also, a bonding layer, such as Multicoat scratchkote, will help adhere the new surface to the old.

Will this new 3' end still be the deep end? If not, there should be some sort of drain at the deepest part of the pool for debris to settle and be sucked out by the pump. If not, I'd recommend that you go a little deeper than 3' so that is it the deep end, THEN don't forget to bring up the bottom main drain.

Poolsean, in your suggestion about filling the deep well(Sorry I'm such a dummy-don't know how to insert quote here:o ),are you thinking we would use a poured material like a cement product? I was thinking of something like a bed of gravel. This is precisely why I'm asking for advice.

The new 3' spot would still be the deep end and thus would have to be slightly lower to facilitate drainage. The hydrostatic valve will be brought up to the floor level, as will the main drain. The main drain will be "Teed" off to give us two main drains and bring us into code compliance.
Hal

It may be as easy as pouring cement, although that's a lot of cement. Perhaps gravel then cement over it, or compacting dirt then cement. I think in either case, you're better off going with the opinion of an expert structural engineer.
I would think that you'd want to grid rebar on the new floor and tie it into the existing pool rebar.
I wish I knew more on this.

Thanks, Sean. Maybe one of the PBs will chime in....
Hal

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sumo1

New question, same project... Subject: Plastering The last step before refilling the pool will be a replastering job. We're considering doing the sandblasting ourselves to save money. Any comments on that idea? How about it, Mr. Gutierrez? Also, there are a couple of large(12"-15" dia.) spots where the plaster is worn away, exposing the gunite. We figured to apply a thin coat of hydraulic cement to those areas, but one plaster company I talked to said it wasn't necessary, that their 3/16" final coat would be sufficient. Does that sound right or should we go ahead and make a hard, smooth surface below the plaster coat? Thanks
Hal

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Make sure you wear the proper protective gear when sandblasting because wow it can hurt, and the dust debri also is a hassle if you inhale it, it can be fatal later. Where those worn plaster spots are, just pour reguar portland cement mixed with some sand and then roughen it up a bit with a brush or sponge. I recommen filling it before plastering because if you fill it the day of the plaster with regular plaster you may see what i call moisture spots under water and look a bit blotchy the reason being is the plaster material is not ment to go on so thick so moisture is still trapped underneath

Well, the pool renovation job is moving along but I need some advice. We'll be coring 3 new holes in the pool, two for returns and one drain. Will a 2 1/2" core be large enough to pass a 2" pipe? How about a 2" core for a 1 1/2" pipe? I know that seems like "Who's buried in Grant's tomb?" but I'd rather ask a dumb question than screw up the job.
Next question: We're setting new skimmers (level, which they weren't before) and were wondering, is there an ideal distance for the waterline to be from the bottom of the coping? We'll install 6" tiles so does that automatically make the answer 3" or can that vary? Thanks for your help!
Hal

Still no replies!? Come on, ladies and gents, I need y'all. Tomorrow's a pool work day and we've got sooo many questions :)
Question of the day: After we've patched any worn spots in the plaster layer (with white portland), we won't have enough money to plaster it this year. If we use 2-part epoxy paint to coat and seal the pool interior, how long would that treatment be expected to last? Two years or three? That would give us time to raise another $25K for plastering. Would that paint then cause huge problems for the plasterers? Or should we then just keep on using epoxy paint? Thanks again!
Hal

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sumo1

Still no replies!? Come on, ladies and gents, I need y'all. Tomorrow's a pool work day and we've got sooo many questions :)
Question of the day: After we've patched any worn spots in the plaster layer (with white portland), we won't have enough money to plaster it this year. If we use 2-part epoxy paint to coat and seal the pool interior, how long would that treatment be expected to last? Two years or three? That would give us time to raise another $25K for plastering. Would that paint then cause huge problems for the plasterers? Or should we then just keep on using epoxy paint? Thanks again!
Hal

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Let's try again-HELP!

When we pour new coping for this pool, do we have to use those plastic control joint strips I see on some pools? Underneath those strips, is there just a regular troweled control joint? Suggestions or discussion? thanks
Hal

Hal, it is my understanding that a concrete deck will crack, reguardless as to what you do. The plastic strips are just a bigger 'control' joint. My source of this info is in the public domain, you can go to www.straightdope.com or go to a good library and read the book itself (he's published 5 and it's in one of them - sorry I can't recall which one the ? was in, but if I get the time - I'll look through my copies)

RECONSTRUCTION UPDATE::
Well, the church pool is coming along slowly, in fits and starts, but coming along nonetheless. We've had so little participation from the congregation that we've given up hope of filling the pool at all this summer. We thought it would be "start the renovation and they will come" but we were mistaken. Worked on the pool this morning and we were three. Mike and I are always there but we never know if anyone else will show. Regardless, we're grateful for the help we get and we feel good about the progress so far.

We've now set all 6 skimmers in their bed of white portland and they're all level within about 5/8". Not perfect but close enough, I hope. Our target waterline is about 4" in the skimmer throat, so I think we're OK. The top wall/cap/coping is all formed, except a section where we're pouring gravel in to fill the old diving well. We used a bobcat to put 36 tons of "57s" gravel in the pool but shoveling it from where it fell into an evenly spread layer over the diving well is going a whole lot slower than anticipated. Gee, imagine that!! Holes have been drilled for the rebar "mesh" that will be constructed over the gravel bed before the 4" of concrete is poured. The original single main drain has been teed and the two 2" pipes are sticking up well above the gravel bed. I've found a source for new anti-vortex drain covers but WHAT GOES UNDER THE COVER AND ATTACHES TO THE 2" DRAIN PIPES?? I don't know but I need to have this problem solved and in hand this week. The forming and pouring are subcontracted but we had to set the skimmers ourselves.

Between the main drains is a 1 1/2" pipe for the hydrostatic valve. We were able to re-use the old one, with addition of a new O ring. All these roughed in pipes have to be brought down to final level before the diving well concrete is poured.

Next will be electrical work (subcontracted) to move the electrical panel more than 10' from the edge of the pool and to run all new wiring inside the pump house, adding exhaust fans and individual kill switches for each pump.

We'll bring in a backhoe to dig good beds for the new pool plumbing, from the new skimmers all the way to the pumps. For some reason, the pump house roof was built to run off toward the pool so we're going to reverse the roof pitch, adding vents as well.

We met with a fence contractor today, as the old fence was only 4' high and won't meet any codes today. That could be a big number ($) as we're looking at around 500' of 5' high chain link with two 4' wide entry gates. We're also adding a 16' ramp for handicap accessability.

This will have to do for now, as I'm tired of thinking about the pool today. Will get some sleep and continue thinking about it tomorrow. I think about it nearly all the time.;) I hope I don't sound jaded because I'm really enjoying this project. :D

Hal

Hal, the main drain pots should either have a sleve to glue a pipe into or a threaded sleve to put a male adaptor into (if it takes M/A -male adaptor, threaded - don't teflon the threads, GLUE them in, a leak in one of those would mean either abandoning the drain or jackhammering up the bottom to fix it). The anit-vortex is just a different cover for the unit (they're round). Have a level on hand when attaching the drains to the pipe so that you can be sure that they're level to the floor. Also remember to have the concrete guys leave the 1/4 - 1/2" for the plaster.I know you're getting it done this week, if you have more emergency questions that I can help with, pm me and I'll prioritize it - I don't get to come here every day at this time of year, but I'll make a point of at least checking my pm's, just in case you ned some info:)

Well, it's time for some updating.:o We've taken time off for some vacations so there's not been too much work on the pool lately. We did get the top wall of the pool and the coping poured about 3 weeks ago. It was blazing hot that day and the concrete set up a lot faster than we would've liked but, all in all, the result is looking good. A lot of work's yet to be done in smoothing and shaping skimmer throats but the skimmer boxes/foundations are extremely solid. We're about 1/3 into the project but I think the biggest part is done.

We have more 'crete to pour, in the form of some new decking. QUESTION OF THE DAY: In our next section of deck pour, we have to install about 70' of drain. I've found a local wholesale distributor who will sell us 10' sections of DrainRite for $30 each. Can anyone offer any tips, pointers or advice to help make sure this part goes in correctly? Thanks in advance. I'm all ears! :D
Hal