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Hi there,
I just got myself a whisperflo to replace my broken old hayward super pump. I am a total newbie at this, but it seems like replacing the pump isn't that hard. My confusion is that inlet and outlet on the new whisperflo pump is 2in. However, the inlet on my hayward pump is 1.5in and the outlet is 2in going to the filter. All this is pvc piping. So what other parts would I need to complete the swap? More specifically I was wondering about what fittings I would need.
Thanks!
Sounds like you need a 1.5 to 2'" fitting for the pump's inlet, and nothing new for the outlet. But I would suggest the outlet be flexible.
You WILL need to adjust lengths and positions of things. I like to have quick connects in both places. Then it's really easy to pull the pump and replace it in the fall and spring.
Home Depot or Lowes or any good plumbing supply has PVC bushings to go from about any pipe size to another. Cheap too.
Al
Thanks for your input!
Upon closer examination of my pool pump, the inlet is actually connected to a diverter valve. Can I reuse this for the new pump? Thanks again.
As previously mentioned home depot, lowes, or any hardware store should have the needed pvc piece parts. You will also need a saw to cut the pvc pipe, I use a table saw but a hacksaw, coping saw, or just about any wood saw will work. Also you need pvc primer and glue to bond pvc together.
Figure out have you want it to fit together, cut the required pieces of pvc and test fit everything before gluing... I have re-piped my filter pad twice in three years. Plan on spending 6 hours your first time working with pvc. If you ever want anything pvc re-piped the second time will be much much easier and quicker...
I have attached a less than desirable picture, but I am out of space here so the quality sucks. Hopefully you will get the idea.
Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/attachment.php?attachmentid=74&stc=1&d=1145919744
Oh yea I forgot to mention, use lots of teflon tape to seal the screw in 2" pvc fittings going into and out of the pump. The fittings alone would not provide me a leak free seal...
The three quick disconnect fittings in the picture work great when you need to disassemble or service the system. One more thing, try to use as few 90 or 45 degree fittings as possible. Also don't use "street" 90 degree fittings aka "street L", they make a 90 degree bend in much less distance than a regular 90 degree fitting. This helps to reduce the hydraulic friction losses.
P.S. I know that I don't follow my own advice about minimizing 90 degree fittings.
:rolleyes:
Use schedule 80 male adapters on the intake and discharge side of the pump, If the pump unprimed the schedule 80 will not melt like schedule 40 will. Dry fit the male fitting into the pump to determine how much Teflon tape to use then put on the Teflon tape (not to much, to much could split the pump) then put Permatex #2 on the male threads and thread adapters onto pump.
From experience I can assure you that with a Pentair whisperflow 1 hp pump you will not melt the sch 40 fittings. My wife did this experiment for me. She set the valve to waste (while the pump was off) and never checked the pool again until I came back from a trip, five days later. So I know that sch 40 can hold up to 8-12 hour cycles completely dry for a week.Quote:
Originally Posted by imfignewton
Thanks for all the info! One more thing, I have a whisperflo 115/230 pump. My previous motor was a hayward super II with a stated 230v. How do I make sure that the whisperflo is set to 230v?
Thanks
Specific connections should be explained in the manual that comes with the pump. Sometimes the info is on the inside of the back cover of the motor.
Al
Schedule 40 fittings connected to pool pumps will warp if the pump overheats. Owned a pool service company for twenty years and made a small fortune repairing warped schedule 40 fitting on pool pumps (including whisperflow) installed by pool builders. Use schedule 80 fittings. The wiring diagram for the pump is on the side of the pump motor. Make sure to reconnect the bondwire to the bonding tab on the back of the new pump motor.