I've been told that the kind of air blower the pool services use is hard to find and my high-powered shop vac can't get air through the bottom drain line.
Anyone know where you can get the right equipment?
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I've been told that the kind of air blower the pool services use is hard to find and my high-powered shop vac can't get air through the bottom drain line.
Anyone know where you can get the right equipment?
I would think any good sized air compressor (20 gal+) should do the trick, these things ussually put out up to 110 lbs pressure (enough to blow your lines appart) and hold enough compressed ait to fill one line about 5-10 times.
You want to be extremely careful if you attempt to use an air compressor. *Because* they get to such high pressures, they *can* blow up the lines. You really need a high volume, low pressure source to "blow" the air through the lines, whereas the compressor "squeezes" air through the lines.
I bought my line blower from www.poolsinc.com (search for "line blower"). It was a bit pricy, but well worth it because the big hole in the ground in my backyard isnt going anywhere for a while :) and it would cost me $75.00 each season just to have the pool guy come out and blow the lines (the chemicals and draining I can take care of myself).
-Chris
Thanks Chris. That is what I remember my pool guy telling me about the kind of equipment necessary to safely do the job. I just could never find a source to buy or rent one (and strangely enough, the pool guy couldn't help me with that either). Like you, the line blowing was the only reason why I was hiring someone to close my pool.
I've been using the discharge end of a 6hp shop vac for years that gets everything but my bottom drain line. It's always made me a little uneasy, though, wondering if I was going to have a little surprise in the spring!
I've used my Sears shop vac for years to blow the lines out with not problem. True, it does not blow air out the main drain, but I don't see any reason that you would need to do that. The ground (unless you live at the North Pole ;) ) does not freeze down to 8 feet below grade. Typical frost line is 36-42" in most places, so as long as you push water down below that level you will have no problem. What I do after blowing lines is pour a gallon or so of mobilehome antifreeze down the line to further protect it. Then in the spring I just pump it to waste, although it will not hurt much if you get it in the pool by accident. I also pour a gallon or more down each skimmer line after blowing them out.
Just wanted to let you know that all air compressors have regulators that allow you to ADJUST the air pressure on the output side, I certainly did not mean to make it sound like you should go at it full pressure - I believe I stated that they'll have enough power to blow your lines appart, but, you can turn it down to a trickle if you want, with a rubber stopper bored in the center for the air compressor nozzle to fit as a seal on the line you're all set, and at least with an air compressor, you can put it to tons of other uses, so it's not just one piece of expensive AND overpriced equipment used once a year and collecting dust the remainder of the year. I'm trying to be a little efficient here and give you some bang for your buck.
I don't really understand why you need to blow the lines out.
I live in the midwest so it freezes every year. All I do is pump antifreeze into each return line, without removing the water, and when I see the antifreeze coming out I cap off the line and fill the rest with antifreeze.
The main drain I just pump antifreeze into the line until I see it starting to float out and then just leave it. Antifreeze is heavier than water so it stays in place.
This way may take more antifreeze, but then I don't have to drain the water below the lines, refill it in the Spring or buy a blower.
I have been doing it this way for about 12 years now and have never had a problem.
How do you feed the anti-freeze -through the skimmer?
Our freeze line in CT is 42", but I had the same worries as you about the main drain.
Considering the main drain would be the only plumbing line I would never replace if it ever broke (waaaaay too deep), Id rather spend the extra $$$ and make sure I take care of it correctly. The blower I bought from Pools Etc. actually launched the water out of the main drain so far that it went thru my (already installed) mesh safety cover. So basically it sent the water 2' above the surface, from 8' down. 10' worth of push is pretty darn good!
BTW, I used my air compressor (or tried to anyway). I even borrowed a tool that increases air flow (using a venturi effect). I was still not able to push the water thru and out of the main drain. The right tool for the job really is that line blower.
Re anti-freeze....I dont use any up here. Its been suggested to me, but Ive never thought of it as necessary. However, this year I may throw a little slug of af into each line. I know some people completely fill the lines, but with the line blower Im not worried about making the line completely filled with af, just want some in there to handle the spots where water will end up hiding (low spots, elbows, etc).
-Chris
I just pull the union joint apart by the pump, pour antifreeze into a 5 gallon bucket, connect a small piece of hose to a small sump pump and pump the antifreeze into the lines. Skimmer is the same. When you see antifreeze coming out of the skimmer, cap it off with one of the long crushable skimmer plugs. I forget what the name is.Quote:
Originally Posted by dbursch
Just remember that antifreeze will freeze if you don't mix water with it. That is why I don't drain the lines.
I question the statement about the mix of AF & water, not saying it's wrong. I just checked a jug of RV antifreeze and it stated burst protection down to -50F undiluted. Just means it won't freeze solid. I also checked an old jug of ethylene glycol (green auto stuff) and it's vague about the concentrations. They stated a 50-50 mix is 'best overall' protection whatever that means. Then on a separate chart they list the concentrations for 40, 50, and 60% and the freeze and boiling points are still dropping & climbing at the 60% level. So...I always used the RV stuff straight, undiluted.
Al
Good point Poconos. I never have used the RV stuff, just the antifreeze from the pool company. I have always heard that you need to have a mixture of water and antifreeze or it will freeze. I assumed that went for all antifreeze. Well...you know what happens when you assume....Quote:
Originally Posted by Poconos
I always thought that the 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol was based on an optimization of freeze and boiling protection, but that the maximum freeze protection took place at 70% antifreeze 30% water.
The 70% could very well be true. Chemistry classes were way too long ago. I do remember something about the freezing point of a mixture being lower than either of the two alone but don't remember anything else. Maybe ChemGeek will see this and chime in.
Al
Hate to interupt the discussion of what% antifreeze to use (I blow the lines clear and add ~ 1/2 gal), but the original ? was where to get a good vac/blower. The answer, Grangers (I've seen them up and down the east coast)
Whaaat? I never heard that before!!Quote:
antifreeze will freeze if you don't mix water with it.