How would you rate this proposal

My wife and I have considered getting a pool for a year now and after much hand wringing we decided this spring to take the plunge. After talking to quite a few local builders (Dallas/Plano/Frisco/Mckinney), we've narrowed it down to one builder (Robertson) in particular. The've offered the following for $57.9k.

Pool

Rectangular IG Gunite Diving Pool - 20 X 40 with a depth of 3.6'-4'-8.6'
Reinforcing steel - 1/2 throughout with 3/8 deck dowels
Coping - Cast Stone Bullnose in White
Interior Finish - White Pool-Tite
Lights - Two 500 watt

Spa

7 X 7 18" high with fountain, 6 jets, cast stone veneer, multi-tier spillway, 100 watt light

Electrical

Jandy PDA wireless controller
Pump - Jandy 2 HP
Filter - Jandy DE 60
Auto Pool Cleaner - Polaris 480
Spa Heater - 400,000 btu Propane
Salt Gen system with Ozone shocker

Deck

Stamped & Stained Concrete - 1851 Sq. Ft.with 4 brass deck drains


Based on the info above, what do you think about the deal I'm being offered?

TIA

Jim

Seems pretty good to me, what with all that decking.

Might want to look into a two-speed circ pump and possibly a separate spa jet pump. Any spa blower included?

Might want to add a couple more spa jets.

Make sure they specify number of skimmers and number of main drains.

I'm not sure what "cast stone" is. Is it cast or is it stone? I assume they mean natural stone which has been machined. Or maybe pre-cast concrete.

Blow off the ozone shocker and save some money there.

The raised spa seems too high to me. I like 6" and would never go higher than 12", unless the surrounding decking is elevated.

Maybe see how much to go to automatic color-changing lights.

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Originally Posted by eljefe281

Seems pretty good to me, what with all that decking.

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Good.

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Originally Posted by eljefe281

Might want to look into a two-speed circ pump and possibly a separate spa jet pump.

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2 Speed pump? Which Jandy 2-speed would be sufficient for my pool? Same with a spa jet pump, any particular Jandy model?

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Originally Posted by eljefe281

Make sure they specify number of skimmers and number of main drains.

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How many should I request? Any benfits to having a certain number or configuration?

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Originally Posted by eljefe281

I'm not sure what "cast stone" is. Is it cast or is it stone? I assume they mean natural stone which has been machined. Or maybe pre-cast concrete

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It's concrete that's been cast and then finished to look like stone. In my particular application it simulates the look of limestone.

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Originally Posted by eljefe281

The raised spa seems too high to me. I like 6" and would never go higher than 12", unless the surrounding decking is elevated.

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We had the option of going from 0" up to 18". We chose 18" as a matter of preference.

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Originally Posted by eljefe281

Maybe see how much to go to automatic color-changing lights.

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I like the idea of having a palette of pool light colors to choose from.

show us some pictures of your yard now. Maybe someone here could help more ideas. You definitly need two skimmers, and 4 deck drains doesnt seem much.

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Originally Posted by birddog

2 Speed pump? Which Jandy 2-speed would be sufficient for my pool? Same with a spa jet pump, any particular Jandy model?

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Jandy seems to offer 2-speed pumps in only their larger sizes ("up-rated" 2 and 2.5 hp). Given the size of your pool, with a 2-speed pump on low speed, you will likely have to run your main circulating pump close to 24 hours a day to achieve the desired water turnover (assuming that's even enough). That may still save you electricity, but I can't tell...there are no pump curves for the 2-speed pumps on the Jandy website.

Ask your builder about a 2-speed pump. Or call and ask Jandy (have the volume of your pool in gallons ready).

A "full-rated" 1 or 1.5 hp single-speed pump would be OK for spa jet pump service (it's a toss-up). Ask your builder about it. I also suggest calling Jandy and asking them to make a selection. Have the quantity, manufacturer, and model number of spa jets ready.

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Originally Posted by birddog

How many (skimmers and main drains) should I request? Any benfits to having a certain number or configuration?

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At least two skimmers. With a large pool like this, maybe three. I don't know enough to say for sure. Perhaps someone else will chime in.

Two main drains for each pump suction you will have. If you have one shared pump for main circulation and spa jets, you will need four main drains - two in the pool and two in the spa. If you have one pump for main circulation and a separate pump for spa jets, you will need six main drains - two in the pool and four in the spa. You don't say anything about a waterfall, but if you have a separate waterfall pump, you will need two more in the pool.

Some people prefer having no pool main drains at all, choosing instead to draw water through the skimmers. Some governmental agencies, however, may mandate the use of main drains. This topic has been discussed at length on the board.

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Originally Posted by birddog

We had the option of going from 0" up to 18". We chose 18" as a matter of preference.

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That's fine. Just be aware that you will need a step (or steps) from the spa up onto the coping and a step (or steps) from the coping down onto the spa bench.

Other things:

(1) Don't let them plumb the main drains directly to the skimmers. Plumb each set of main drains together and run a dedicated line back to the equipment. Each skimmer should have a dedicated line run back to the equipment.

(2) Make sure there are enough returns/inlets to the pool. You may need six or more. Perhaps others can chime in here.

(3) Make sure they will provide you with evidence that all contractors performing work on your property are covered by insurance.

(4) Make sure they will provide you with lien releases (lien waivers) from all contractors and material suppliers, in effect indicating that they have been paid.

I just did one myself and didn't use a pool contractor (after a year of research) and used subs in the Dallas/Ft Worth Area. Mine was 54 X 32 kidney shape @ 60,000 gallons 9' deep diving with 3 skimmers, water fall and a huge raised spa. I also used pebbletec (not plaster) which is an upgrade but I highly recommend it. Also, had all the Jandy equipment, salt system, wireless, in house control panel etc... my cost for the pool was $48K. The fact that you have a pretty large deck in your price and the contractor needs to make some $$ to be in business it sounds reasonable. See if he will throw in the pebbletec for free as an upgrade and if he does I'd say you got a deal (the pebbletec on your size pool is probably around an additional $3K).

One other thing - you MUST get an "auto-leveler".

This is a float valve which gets connected to a pressurized water source.

When the water level in your pool drops below the desired level, the device will open up and refill your pool automatically.

Don't go without it.

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Originally Posted by eljefe281

One other thing - you MUST get an "auto-leveler".

This is a float valve which gets connected to a pressurized water source.

When the water level in your pool drops below the desired level, the device will open up and refill your pool automatically.

Don't go without it.

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The pool guy told me it wasn't worth it to get one. I asked him about it and that was his response.

Is it neccessary to get an auto-fill? Personally, I'd prefer topping of the pool myself unless it needs to be done frequently.

I have rendered my opinion on the autofill.

Let us hear from others.

I can't imagine he'd charge all that much for it.

I had my plumber install one for me.
Have them run it where your pool equiptment is and then back to where you want the filler to be. That way you are able to turn it off when you need. i.e. checking for leaks. My pool sometimes looses 1/3" a day from evaperation and splashing. It would be about 3-5 and the water would be below the skimmer and (if I didnt have a 15minute flow monitor on my pump) It could ruin your pump. It's another feature that goes hand in hand with a SWCG - low pool maintance.

another low maintance feature would have to be the overflow drain.
http://y0manda.serveftp.net:81/album...0015.sized.jpg
the white flattened thing that sits flush on the bond beam (left of the sponge) just hook it upto your drains, the plumber left this for me when he finished and I just cut a into my bond beam and used polyurethane to adhear it. Great when it rains and don't want your pool water overflowing.

My builder said the normal price was $300, but he was going to install it for $175. I chose the manual fill for free, but ended up getting the autofill by mistake anyway.

I was initially concerned over what might happen if the float switch failed and overfilled the pool. But after talking to some co-workers with pools who have done manual top offs and forgotten about them for hours, I realized the valve is less likely to fail than I am. lol Besides, if I want to do it manually, I can always close the valve.

I don't think it's a must have, but will probably be nice.

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Originally Posted by SeanB.

I was initially concerned over what might happen if the float switch failed and overfilled the pool.

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Sean, don't you have an overflow line?

It will overflow out one side to the yard which is graded away from the house via a swale to the street. Either way, I don't want to end up wasting water. I'll be keeping a close eye on it and checking the valve periodically.

I have been told that it's a good idea to disable your autofill for maybe the first couple of months after your pool is finished.

If you have a leak in the pool which isn't manifesting itself in a puddle in the yard, the autofill can hide it and you won't have any clue - well, at least until the first water bill shows up.