Just received my k 2006 kit today. What are the numbers u should be looking for.
We have 20x 36 in ground vinyl liner saltwater.
Printable View
Just received my k 2006 kit today. What are the numbers u should be looking for.
We have 20x 36 in ground vinyl liner saltwater.
Congrats on the new kit! It is a great kit but the book and wheel that come with it are not. Here are some testing demo videos that are helpful. Watch them and then test and post your numbers along with the volume of your pool and someone here will help you tweak them. Also, tell use exactly what all you have added to your pool so far, meaning ingredients and not just product names like 'shock.'
http://pool9.net/K2006-vid/
Welcome to the Pool Forum!
(Until your registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum or follow links while you are logged in. So, copy that link and paste it into a browser window after you first log out.
We can also explain how to make those confusing tests much simpler.
Oh, don't bother with the Acid Demand or Base Demand tests. You (and we) hardly ever need them. Personally, I've never needed them in 15 years of pool ownership.
Ok final got to use the k 2006 here are my results:
FC= 1 ppm
CC= .5ppm
PH= +8.0
TA= 30 ppm
CH= 80 ppm
CYA= dot never did disappered.
So after reading the forums I'm guessing them numbers aren't good. So where should I start.?
I have a 21k saltwater pool with 1 skimmer, 2 bottom drains, 4 returns.
Pentair 1 hp single speed superflo pump
Pentair sd80 sandfilter
Pentair ultr a temp heat pump
Pentair intelclor40.
OK. There's a relationship between FC and CYA. With NO CYA, 1ppm of FC will be pretty effective......but it will break down in sunshine in as little as 15 minutes.
Different levels of CYA require appropriate levels of FC...see the "Best Guess Table"
http://poolsolutions.com/gd/best-gue...ine-chart.html
Your pH is too high. You'll need to either add Muriatic Acid or Dry Acid to lower it down to the 7.2-7.8 range.
TECHNICALLY, your T/A is too low...but since your pH is very high I wouldn't even ATTEMPT to adjust it unless you find pH keeps trending low (it's now too high).
CH is FINE! You have a vinyl pool so low CH isn't a problem. Do NOT be talked into adding Calcium to increase it.
All in all, your numbers aren't as bad as you thought.
Ok thanks carl. Pool was just installed 3 weeks ago, the installers put 1 gallon of Champion pool shock in it X2 the first week. Thursday of last week o put 1/2 gallon of tranchem muriatic acid in it. Should I put the rest in tonight?
I don't know what Champion pool shock is, but I'm guessing it's calcium hypochlorite--Cal-hypo, which tends to push pH up, since your pH is high.
However, if it was di-chlor, that tends to be a bit acidic (which you need) and adds CYA, which you also need.
Is Tranchem a brand of Muriatic Acid? Regular, ordinary Muriatic acid is what you need, not the "green" or fumeless. Personally, I'd fill a 5 gallon bucket with pool water most of the way, add the acid to that (SLOWLY!), and then add that to the pool. Wear gloves, eye protection, long clothes and do NOT breath the fumes!
Can you find out what the Champion stuff is? ("Shock" is misused by pool chem companies to hide the ingredients and make it sound "special". It's a verb meaning to raise your pool's chlorine to high levels, not a noun. What they call "shock" is merely chlorine, usually Cal-Hypo, Di-chlor or extra-strength bleach--"Liquid Shock")
I will look at the champion brand shock when I get home tonight.Transchem is the brand of the muriatic acid bought at the hardware store. It is Judy a regular muriatic acid.
The champion brand "pool" shock list the ingredients as:
12.5% sodium hypochlorite
Inert ingredients 87.5%
That is basically just strong bleach. Regular household bleach that is sold these days is typically 8.25% sodium hypochlorite. So, what you have is perfectly fine to use. However, it may not truly be 12.5%. Many times, the higher concentrations of sodium hypochlorite degrade fairly quickly especially if they are not stored in cool conditions.
I put another half gallon of muriatic acid in the night before last, retested last night. Showed improvements but still above 8 so I will do another 1/2 gallon tonight and retest.
If the Champion costs more than 1.5x 8.25% per gallon, then it's a bad deal. If it costs less than 1.5x per gallon, it's a good deal.
For example, my local CostCo sells 3 121oz jugs for $9--which is about $3.17/gallon (gallon=128oz). But I but 5 gallons of 12.5% for $19 which is $3.80/gallon. As long as the 12.5% is below $5.55, it's a better deal than the 3 jugs from Costco.
I have 2 gallons left from the pool install, after those are gone I'm sure I'll be using regular old bleach from a non pool supply store.
Carl my PH is high and I have no cya. Can I work on fixing both or just focus on the PH first. I think you also mentioned that my TA was low.
you sure can fix both! I'd start with lowering pH the go to adding CYA. expect the CYA to take two to seven days to dissolve and don't backwash until it is where you want it.
Or you can fill a floater with Tri-chlor tablets as they lower pH as they add chlorine and stabilizer.
With a saltwater pool do I need to be adding chlorine?Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlD
The answer is: Yes, and No. You'll use far less chlorine but you'll still need to add it from time to time. I do.