Baquacil to Bleach conversion (help needed)

Hi - newbie here and help would be much appreciated. We just bought a house in the Winter with a 20,000gal IG pool (fiberglass/vinal liner) and a sand filter. We had it opened by a pool company on May 22. The pool has previously been treated with Baquacil and the pool company opened w/Baquacil prior to us having any knowledge about the stuff (never asked for our preference). After a few weeks of frustration and reading this forum, my husband and I have decided to make the switch to Chlorine!! We're in New England and the weather, being so bad of late, has helped with our decsion since we are a few weeks away from swimming with warmer water.

Background: after opening and shocking with Baquacil it was very cloudy, then the pool store had us add many chemicals to clear the water: sanitizer, clarifier, PH +, alum (to settle the dead algae), Baquacil ultra (don't know why we are very new at this). Meanwhile, we vaccumed the greenish, cloudy water and backwashed alot. We ran the filter 24/7, sometimes on skimmer, sometimes on drain. Now the water is clear and there is some areas of algae on liner and bottom that need to be vaccumed. It has always been difficult, if possible at all, to see the bottom in the deep end. Every time we vaccuum or brush this stuff it recirculates and clouds up the water and we start all over again............................

Now, water test at the pool store yesterday shows the following:

PH: 8
Baquacil level: 15
TA: 100
Ca: 200

After reading several of the conversion threads, I understand the process but have a few questions:

1. The pool store is trying to sell us a "super shock" instead of using bleach. Any good or are they just trying to sell me something I don't need?? At this point, I'm not too sure I trust these pool store companies........!!

2. When initially dumping the bleach (or super shock), do we run the filter as normal or do we run it on a different mode??

3. The sock: Is it best to use a sock on the skimmer basket when initially starting the process?? If yes, just so I understand this, do you put a nylon/panyhose around the whole basket and reinsert it?? Then rinse it off as nesessary?? How long unitl the sock is not needed??

4. Is changing the sand difficult?? Do we have to change it?? The pool company says they have a chemical to clean the sand so we do not have to change it?? Does this work?? (FYI-the sand was changed at the end of last season so I think it has very little Baquacil exposure).

5. I have a fear of fading the liner. I know I have to keep a level of 15ppm, but how far off are dangerous levels???

6. I'm headed to Leslie's to buy the FAS-DPD test kit. Is this sufficient?? No time to wait for Ben's kit.

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions in advance. I can see we'll be utilizing this website and forum the whole summer (i.e. which auto-cleaner to buy for a $700 budget? Aquabot or the Dolphin Diagnostic??)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by revhendrix

Hi - newbie here and help would be much appreciated. We just bought a house in the Winter with a 20,000gal IG pool (fiberglass/vinal liner) and a sand filter. We had it opened by a pool company on May 22. The pool has previously been treated with Baquacil and the pool company opened w/Baquacil prior to us having any knowledge about the stuff (never asked for our preference). After a few weeks of frustration and reading this forum, my husband and I have decided to make the switch to Chlorine!! We're in New England and the weather, being so bad of late, has helped with our decsion since we are a few weeks away from swimming with warmer water.

Background: after opening and shocking with Baquacil it was very cloudy, then the pool store had us add many chemicals to clear the water: sanitizer, clarifier, PH +, alum (to settle the dead algae), Baquacil ultra (don't know why we are very new at this). Meanwhile, we vaccumed the greenish, cloudy water and backwashed alot. We ran the filter 24/7, sometimes on skimmer, sometimes on drain. Now the water is clear and there is some areas of algae on liner and bottom that need to be vaccumed. It has always been difficult, if possible at all, to see the bottom in the deep end. Every time we vaccuum or brush this stuff it recirculates and clouds up the water and we start all over again............................

Now, water test at the pool store yesterday shows the following:

PH: 8
Baquacil level: 15
TA: 100
Ca: 200

After reading several of the conversion threads, I understand the process but have a few questions:

1. The pool store is trying to sell us a "super shock" instead of using bleach. Any good or are they just trying to sell me something I don't need?? At this point, I'm not too sure I trust these pool store companies........!!

2. When initially dumping the bleach (or super shock), do we run the filter as normal or do we run it on a different mode??

3. The sock: Is it best to use a sock on the skimmer basket when initially starting the process?? If yes, just so I understand this, do you put a nylon/panyhose around the whole basket and reinsert it?? Then rinse it off as nesessary?? How long unitl the sock is not needed??

4. Is changing the sand difficult?? Do we have to change it?? The pool company says they have a chemical to clean the sand so we do not have to change it?? Does this work?? (FYI-the sand was changed at the end of last season so I think it has very little Baquacil exposure).

5. I have a fear of fading the liner. I know I have to keep a level of 15ppm, but how far off are dangerous levels???

6. I'm headed to Leslie's to buy the FAS-DPD test kit. Is this sufficient?? No time to wait for Ben's kit.

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions in advance. I can see we'll be utilizing this website and forum the whole summer (i.e. which auto-cleaner to buy for a $700 budget? Aquabot or the Dolphin Diagnostic??)

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Rev, welcome to the forum! You've chosen the right place to take control of your pool, as opposed to letting the pool dudes do it! A sand change is necessary, there is still 'baqua-crud' trapped in the sand. Baq and chlorine don't play well together, as you probably know.

As for the sock, use it until it comes out clean.
As for 'super shock' vs bleach: the difference is in the concentration. Use mwsmith2' calculator to determine how much you need.
Changing the sand is easy, I responded to a post this morning about it (you can search, or I'll spend a few hours trying to link it here)
Run the filteer as normal

Any more ?s, just ask we are happy to help you

Hello Revhendrix,

We just completed our conversion over Memorial Day weekend so my advice will be from a satisfied newbie to a "new" newbie!
In answer to your questions, I think you will only need the Clorox (6%) but buy a lot. We have a 14000 gal IG Fiberglass and we used about 65-70 gallons. We found that by testing it every 2 hours (since we were home) and keeping the FC at 15ppm (free chlorine which you will test with the FAS-DPD kit) the conversion went extremely quickly (started on Friday night, were in the pool on Monday afternoon!) We tested and added bleach every 2 hours to keep it to 15ppm. (Make sure you continue to backwash the filter, watch the pressure, if it builds, it is getting restricted with the "gunk" from the pool. We backwashed several times per day.) When adding the bleach, be ready, the color and cloudiness will shock you the first 4 times (minimum) you put bleach in the pool. I guess you could use the shock from the pool place but it may have other ingredients or solids in it that you do not need. The bleach worked EXTREMELY WELL!!! We put the bleach in with the filter running normally, pouring it at the return to the deep end. Your goal is to keep the pool chlorine level at 15ppm till it maintains that reading overnight AND to have a CC (combined Chlorine) reading of 0. Once you achieve that, you can add your stabilizer and that is where the sock comes in. We put ours in an old white cotton sock and tied it to the "eye" that the rope between the shallow and deep end goes through. That worked just fine, took about a week to get all dissolved. As far as harming the vinyl, I have seen other threads on this site regarding that and it seems that 15ppm will not harm the vinyl (anyone can correct me here if I am wrong on that issue). Changing the sand is not difficult, but if it was changed last year, I doubt if you need it changed. You can ad a little Diatamatious (sp) Earth (DE as it is called) to your sand filter, that will help it get smaller particles out of the water.
You will not be sorry you are doing this, we have never (I repeat NEVER) had water so clean and clear!!! I cannot say enough about finding this site!
Looking at your ph, it does look a little high since other threads here have said that ph a little lower works best with the CLorox level. Ours during the conversion was about 7.2-7.5. When we started this, we knew NOTHING about what the water chemistry should be and I was extremely overwhelmed! I had Ben rush ship a kit and BOY WAS THAT WORTH IT!!! In just a few short days, I feel I learned what it takes to get the water right and how to test it to make sure it is right. I learned all the acronyms (i.e. FC, CC, TC, ALK....etc) all of which I knew none of. I was amazed how quickly I understood it all once I got the kit and started testing.

Good Luck and keep us posted. Give it a few days, it is SOOOOO worth it!

Thanks for your responses and here's an update...

We began yesterday by buying 5 cases (I know I'll need more) of 6% bleach and had a final water test done at the pool store:

Bacquacil: 10
Ph: 8.0
TA: 90
Ca: 110

We put in 5 gal of bleach at 7:30 pm and inserted a nylon sock over the skimmer basket. The water immediately turned pea green and I was excited to see it (for now)!! At 11:30 pm we checked the FC levels and they were almost nonexistant (maybe 1.5 to be generous) so I put in 4.5 gal of bleach (per the bleach calc), backwashed and rinsed the sock (there was an orange gummy substance already there).

At 7:30 am I checked the FC levels and they were at 6 so I put in 3 gal of bleach and again backwashed and rinsed the sock. I'll check it again in a couple of hours. Here's a few more questions:

Do I need to vacum to waste?? If so, when and how much. I really would prefer not to do this too much becuse I don't want to have to refill the pool.

Do I need to worry about the other water chemical readings?? My Ph is a bit high and I'm wondering if I ignore everything but the FC until the process is done.

I can't thank this forum enough...........and I can't wait for this to be over.

My recommendation would be to not worry about the other chemicals till you reach the goals of 15ppm overnight with 0ppm combined chlorine. As far as sweeping to waste, I suppose you could do that but I think I would wait and let the clorox do its thing, kill off the baquasil (and anything else), let it start to settle out on the bottom then sweep to waste. Making sure you backwash your filter periodically so that it does not get overloaded with the junk it is filtering out. The rest of your readings may not change much (ours hardly changed at all from the beginning till we were done). The clorine level is the most important thing right now. Check it often during the day and keep it at 15ppm. It will burn off quickly till it eats up the baquasil. (Again, anyone reading this who knows more please correct me if I am mis-stating any information. I just completed our conversion with no problems and that is all I have to go by...that and the multitude of postings I read throughout the process!)

Again, trust me, in a few days you will not believe how beautiful the water will be!

I just finished my conversion to chlorine from baquacil (we are in CT, by the way). I even started dumping in bleach with my baquacil level around 30. I began on Wed and by Friday evening the pool was crystal clear. I believe it went fast because of the "beautiful" cloudy, cold, rainy weather and I was able to keep a high level of chlorine around the clock (and don't worry about bleaching the liner at these levels). I just changed the sand and it was very gunky; you should probably go ahead and change yours anyway. I found lots of yellow stringy junk floating around and throughout. Keep the faith!!!!

i forgot to add, we have a dolphin and LOVE it. got it on ebay but can't remember how much it was.

Hi - 2nd update....

Still in the process.... I'm checking the levels at least 4-6 times a day from 7:30 am to 11:30 pm. The FC levels have ranged from 6ppm to 12ppm after checking it and I've used the bleach Calc to figure out what I needed to put in for bleach to keep the levels at 15ppm.

The water has gone from merky pea green to clearish green (we can see the bottom in the shallow end).

I clear and rinse the nylon sock (on the skimmer basket), which has had orange muck on it everytime, and backwash everytime I've added bleach.

I would imagine I have a couple days left, but here are a few more questions. Thanks in advance:

1. My Ph was at 8 when I started this...when do I care about it again. Should I test the levels or wait until this is over?

2. When I backwash it's not that dirty...is this because the bacquacil is all being caught in the sock?? I really thought it would be much more dirty and cloudy. I never had the globs of orange or rust baquagunk floating..is this because I started with a low level of bacquacil (10)??

3. CYA - I know I need to do this when my conversion is over. Is the cotton sock method a good way to go and how much do I use to stablize the high levels of chlorine (20,000gal pool)?? How do I keep from adding too much stabilizer??

thanks again...REV

Rev,
I'm experiencing the same clean-looking water when I backwash, too. Very surprising. I really expected to see a lot of solids and at least the same color water as is in the pool, but maybe the water color is so bad because we're seeing the whole depth of the pool compared to the amount in the little spyglass.

I'm taking pictures as I continue the conversion and will post them when I'm done. This is soooooo time consuming, isn't it?!

--Deborah

Hi Debroah...thanks for the reply. I've been reading your thread as well. Yea, what a process!! I've been consumed with this conversion - coming home from work at lunch, leaving early...all to get a jump on my FC levels. I'm hoping this is over soon...I'm guessing at least a couple more days.

Sounds like you're well on your way to pool bliss as well!! I didn't have any of the rust water or orange floaters....Hmmmmmmm, I hope this is working.

It must be a bit tougher in AZ with combating the heat and all...good luck and keep us updated on the progress. -REV

Rev,
I can't tell you how many of those little test sticks I've gone through today (I know, I should have a better testing system . . .) but I've never let the FC level drop below 10. It's taking less and less of the ultra bleach to keep up and the color of my pool is now bright Gatorade-like green and it's clearer. I can actually see the bottom drain and the whole ladder and there's no baquajunk floating.

How's this for an added stressor: I just got a contract on my house to sell and have an inspection tomorrow!!!! I am praying hard that there's a huge improvement overnight because this just may spook the buyers off. We did discuss the fact that I was getting ready to switch over to chlorine and the guy was glad to hear it. I doubt he knew how much of a pain it is and how shocking the conversion can look! I'm going to stash the bleach bottles somewhere out of sight. Luckily, tomorrow is trash day so the empties will be gone. My realtor came by twice today. The first time I told him not to even look and to save himself the worry because it's not pretty. Well, the second time I was out back vacuuming the hidden floor of the pool so my son let him in and led him out to where I was working. :eek: He's probably having some martinis tonight to calm down!

I hope we both have great things to report in the morning.

--Deborah

Hi all....

This is my third day in the process and my FC levels seem to be staying where needed. I checked the levels at 11:30pm and again at 7:00 this morning. In the morning, the FC levels were at 15ppm. My pool, however, is still a clear green. I can see the bottom at the shallow end, but not the deep end (still a cloudy dark green).

Do I need to add a different kind of chemical to get rid of the green?? With my FC levels staying relatively high I'm a bit worried why the pool is still green. Someone mentioned use an algaecide?

FYI - we backwash frequently and it's fairly clean. The skimmer stock is still collecting orange gunk.

Any thoughts and thanks

What level was your Cl last night?

Even without knowing, I am sure you simply need to keep adding chlorine. Run your pump 24/7, keep Cl at shock value 'til your water clears, brush and vac frequently.

Stay the course....you're making progress.

You do not need additional chemicals. It is quite tempting to use them, but, generally, they do little that Cl won't do and they confuse the issue.

Hi Dave and thanks for the reply. My FC levels were close to 15ppm last night. I threw in an extra 1 1/2 gallons of Clorax for good measure (to last through the night). When I tested this a.m., they were at 15ppm - so I was baffled that the FC levels were still up (lasting through the night). I didn't expect to maintain those levels until the pool was clear. It's a sunny day in New England so I'm sure the sun should eat up the FC levels.

Should I be testing for Cl or is that the same as FC??

Sorry.. Cl = Chlorine FC = Free Chlorine

For your purposes, virtually the same thing.

If I follow what you're saying, you tested 15ppm last night, then added 1.5 gal Clorox (4.5ppm). Test this morning - 15ppm. So you consumed around 4-5ppm Cl.....is that right?

The fact that your water is not where you want it is still your driving factor...keep the Cl in there.

Another helpful additive that hasn't been mentioned in a while (and we all need some of this) is POP (pool owner patience) :)

"If I follow what you're saying, you tested 15ppm last night, then added 1.5 gal Clorox (4.5ppm). Test this morning - 15ppm. So you consumed around 4-5ppm Cl.....is that right?" Yes, that's right.

Too funny....."POP". I need a little of that with everything!!

Thanks again.

Rev,
You haven't posted in awhile. Is that because you've been enjoying your pool?

--Deborah

Hi Deb...I wish I was enjoying the pool. I'm still into the process. Tonight marks the fourth full day. My pool is a clear green and you can almost see the bottom throughout the pool. The deep end, however, still has some dark spots. I'm hoping to see crystal blue within a couple of days. My "POP" is wearing off......!!

I just pulled the owner's manual for my Jaccuzzi 190L filter to try to learn how to change the sand.... Hoping, of course, that I'll be changing it by the weekend.

Thanks for checking in....

Hey Rev,

I too am in the middle of a Bac to CL conversion, but I've had a little better luck. I'm replying to your post re the sand. I started my conversion on Friday, went through the shock of water you could walk across on Saturday, then rejoiced in the clear, blue water on Sunday. On Monday, I replaced my sand. I was amazed at what I found. The sand, 300 lbs worth and new at the start of last year, was packed into the filter and was a real bear to remove. I used my shop vac (on the wet setting) to get a lot of the water and sand out, but I finally ended up scooping it out with my hands. I had multitudes of sand "rocks" that were too hard to break up with my hands. These were laced with green layers of embedded algae and some white stuff that looked like pieces of bone (no family members are missing, so I'm pretty sure it wasn't bone!). I guess thats where all the calcium went that the pool store people kept me replacing for no good reason (I have a vinyl liner). I doubt I would ever completely get rid of the algae without replacing the sand.

Bottom line - replace your sand, but don't have any expectations that it will be easy. My arms look like I was in a cat fight and lost!

About your green water, do a search on copper. I've seen some other posts where people can't get the "algae" out and copper has developed as the lead suspect.

Best wishes,

Doug

We just had our water tested at a pool store and the ph level was "off the charts" probably between 21-32. Our cl level was 8. The guy at told me that we are in a state of "chlorine lock" and the chlorine will no longer work because the water is too acidic because of the high ph level. He suggested that we use ph minus -- a product to lower the ph to normal level so the chlorine will work. You add it every hour or so to the skimmer and run the filter continuously and wait for the levels to drop. He also said not to add anymore bleach until the level is lower(maybe a day or so). It's not so much the $$ of buying the ph product, I just don't want to get "pool stored" and also I don't want to delay the completion of this conversion. This is our 5th day and the water is clearing but still dark green in the deep end. Help!

Rev,

Are you sure you don't have those numbers reversed? pH=8 and Cl=21-32?

Even if you do, the pool store is incorrect.

This post points again to how important it is for everyone to have a decent test kit and understand what the results mean.

Rev, the process will work and I'm sure the pool store guy is a nice guy....but, he's misinformed.

Double check those numbers and get a complete set of test results....pH, Alk, FC, TC. That'll do more to help you get back on track than anything you put in your pool without testing.

Rev,

Did the pool store test for copper? I have seen other threads also (as Doug mentioned) where a clear green color is the result of copper in the water. If they didn't, it might be worth calling them to ask if they can. If you do have copper, then post an update (or look for the other threads) and you should get the information you need to get you over the hump. Hang in there!

Peter

Thanks for the replies...this website has definately helped me from filling my pool with sand (I'd have the nicest sandbox in the neighborhood!).

Anyway, we do have a decent test kit. It's a Taylor complete DPD test. Although we have to dilute (only up to 5ppm), I'm certain it's faily accurate.

I took a water sample to the pool store (close to my office) out of curiosity to see how accurate my tests were. I left without buying a thing because I wanted to consult this forum and run another test. I just couldn't believe that I was that far off.

When I got home at lunch, I ran another FC and ph test and they seem fine. FC was at 7.5 ppm (I added 2.5gal of Clorox to get the levels back up) and the Ph was at 7.4. I'm not sure what the pool guy was thinking...do they even have Ph levels that high?? Maybe he was really trying to "Pool store" me.

Thanks again and keep the advise coming.

A quick Google search found that a ph=14 is equvalent to drain cleaner, so I kinda doubt you had a ph in the 20s! Man, it's been a long time since I had chemistry...

Doug

ok, into day 6 and here is an update. Still trying to keep the FC at 15ppm, and I'm using less Clorax. The pool is considerably clearer, but still has a green tinge. You can see the bottom throughout the pool (even in the deep end). I did some chemical tests before I left for work (DPD test/dilluted 2:1 for the FC):

FC: 12 (added 1.5gal of Clorax)
Ph: 7.5
TA: 170-180

That's all I tested.

On my way to work, I stopped by the pool store to test my accuracy. Their readings:

ph: 8.2
TA: 200
CH: 50
CYA: 10

They said they couldn't test for FC (huh?) but said my clorine levels were high (4+). I asked the guy what that stood for and he couldn't tell me (i.e. CC/TC/FC). Needless to say, I was surprised about that along with the difference in readings.

What's my next step....? Still Bleach and when to add additional chemicals. Should I try to lower the Ph?

Thanks and I hope my posts are helping others going through this ordeal!!

If you're using less Clorox and your pool is improving, those are very good signs! Stay with it, you'll get there. I would trust your pH readings over the test store's, and at 7.5 it is fine. You can lower it if you want, but I wouldn't bother.

Janet

The pool store told you the pH was in the 20s????????? That is completely off the scale AND then they told you the chlorine was locked because the water was too acidic??!?!?!?!? I think that person needs to go back to Chem 101 since the higher the pH the more BASIC the solution. Gotta love pool store expertise. Dude, if you go back for a test and that same guy is working I would just leave and save yourself the 15 minutes.

Hi Rev,
I've been away for a couple of days and just caught myself up on your conversion to chlorine. Would you say your water is crystal clear, but just still a bit green rather than blue? The reason I ask is because at the end of mine I was concerned that I didn't see the carribean blue color but when I had a pool inspection Thursday morning for the sale of my house I asked the guy about it. He reminded me that the perceived color of the pool is determined largely by color of the container it's in. He said that my pool looks great. I also did a search to see if I could find some info on the issue and one site referred to a more "classic" color which is what mine is.

Are you still cleaning anything out of the sock on your skimmer or has all that cleared up?

I just have to add, at the hotel we stayed at in San Diego Thursday night the pool water was the same shade of green as mine, but cloudy. I felt very smug.

Hope some of this helps,
Deborah

Good morning all...here's an update:

We're into day nine (9). The pool is clear but still has a green tint. It's been the same since about day 5, but is getting clearer each day (we can easily see the drain in the deep end. We've done our best at keeping the cl at 15ppm and have gone through 73.5 gallons of 6% Clorox. The pool seems to be able to keep a decent cl level (never below 9ppm), but we keep adding bleach to get to 15ppm. Each day we expect to see clear blue...but are disapointed that it's still has a green tint.

There's no copper in the water (we had the water tested for it).

Someone give me some good news or good advise...the frustration is begining to take over. Is it possible that this process could take longer than 9-10 days??

Hi all...

The pools almost crystal clear. If I'm being fussy, there's still a green tinge to it, but overall it looks fantastic. The nylon sock is collecting less and less orange goop, but nonetheless, it's still collecting a bit. I'm backwashing twice a day and seeing an orange cloud of water run through the eyeglass for a few seconds. The CL levels stay at 10ppm or better over night, although during a hot sunny day, I see them drop to 4-6ppm. I'm still doing my best to keep the levels up to 15ppm. Unbelievably, I've been at this for 11 days, but I think I'm about done. I'll change the sand in a week or two.

Can I add the CYA now (in the sock method) and stop the 15ppm clorine?? My CYA levels are under 30 (the pool store says 10).

How much CYA do you put in (I fear putting in too much)?

Thanks in advance for answering.....

Hi Rev,

The stabilizer (CYA) bottle should have some guidelines on it but I would say that adding a 4 lb bottle should give you a max rise of 20 ppm (I would guess it would be a little less) so that's probably a good amount to start. You could buy extra while you're at it to adjust later as necessary.

Also, I have seen in other threads that some conversions need polyquat to get the water crystal clear. Since you mention a green tinge but otherwise are under control, you could try this but I don't have the firsthand knowledge to be able to say it will help for sure, I'm just going by what has worked for others.

Congrats on your conversion.

Peter

Thanks for all your help...I think we're done. The water is crystal clear and blue. We kept the levels up to 15ppm through yesterday morning and now, 24hrs later, through a hot sunny day, they're still at 7.5ppm. Anyone disagree with the notion that I'm done??? ...and what would happen if I'm not totally done??

Please note I have not put anymore chemicals in the pool (i.e. CYA or algeside, etc.).

REV

It sounds like you're done to me. Keep testing regularly and I would suspect that if there was anything left you would see your CC creep up above 0.5 and that would be the sign to shock again.

Congrats on your conversion!

Peter

Rev,
You'll remember that I felt like my pool was done and it still had a greenish tint to the crystal clear water. Well, about a week after changing the sand in my filter I've noticed my pool water definitely looks blue so I guess it still had a little bit of change left to go.

Also, I know you were discouraged about it taking so long for your conversion to be complete but that may have to do with the fact that you're not usually home during the day like I am. I was able to check my chlorine level every hour if I wanted and just kept topping it off if needed.

Congratulations! Now, go enjoy your pool!

--Deborah

Congrats on your pool conversion. I think I'll be starting mine tonight, if I can convince my hubby.

One question and it's probably a stupid one.

I'm guessing you run the filter 24/7 through the conversion process??

Thanks

Lizzie - it is best if we keep all your questions about your conversion within one thread. Since all of your information about your situation is in the other thread, let's use that one. Looking forward to hearing of your progress.