confusing readings on 4 year old SWCG

[ Pooldoc note: the TLDR; for this thread is simple: most 4 year old SWCGs are, like this one, at the end of their lives!]

Hi y'all

We've never had any issues with our AquaRite SWCG since it was installed, other than a creature gnawing through its power cord. This summer we keep getting "low salt" readings despite the fact that we have had little rain, and so it seems like the salt concentration should be going up rather than down. When we add salt the warning goes off, and the readout goes up to a reasonable number.

Today, in addition to a low salt light I got a "check cell" light. Even though it is not time yet to check the cell I did, and it seems fine. After I put it all back together again it was working...and then it wasn't.

My questions are:

Can something make salt levels drop other than dilution and splash out?
What does a SWCG that is going bad (like maybe a cell wearing out?) look like? Do you get a whole range of weird warnings? Does the salt level read wrong? How can I independently check the salt level?

Thanks for any help!

When my Aqua Pure cell went bad last year I would get crazy readings and false alarms like yours. Most SWCG's only last 3-5 years. That is why if you read the posts on this site you will find that a lot of pool owners with SWCG 's use liquid chlorine bleach. Using the bleach will cut down on how much chlorine your cell needs to provide. I replaced my cell with a Pentair IC40. It is for pools up to 40k gallons. I found it on Amazon for a little over $600.

Any pool store can give you your salt levels. While your at it get a complete water test done and post them. With your SWCG going bad you might find other issues you didn't know about.

Good luck.

Thanks for the help, Mike!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mikes Pool

I replaced my cell with a Pentair IC40. It is for pools up to 40k gallons. I found it on Amazon for a little over $600. Good luck.

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Was this a replacement cell that fit into your existing system, or did you change systems?

I use the big test kit that PoolDoc recommends, and so far all the other chems are behaving sensibly.I'm off to the pool store today for other stuff so I'll get a salt reading from them. I did have to add bleach, with the SWCG behaving erratically, but I think you are suggesting using bleach as the main source of chlorine, and the SWCG as a back up. I will consider that - still get the lovely water conditioning of the salt. I'd miss the carefree chlorination of our generator if we stopped using it altogether!

Alison

Actually, you can use the SWCG for routine chlorination, but not for 'shocking', for spring start-up, for winterization, for algae, etc. In other words, when the pool is fully 'adjusted', use the SWCG. When you are having any sort of problem with the pool (algae?), or when the chlorine needs a boost (party?), use bleach if your CYA is OK, or dichlor if it's low.

Alison,

It's probably a good idea to have a K-1766 in addition to the big kit you already have. K-1766 is a drops based test kit for salt levels. The concern at this point is that since you added a bunch due to a failing cell levels might be very high. When you get a new cell, you may find yourself with a higher than expected salt reading. Not a problem so long as the levels aren't high enough to prevent the SWCG from operating. I think the Aquarite unit wants 3200ppm. High salt can often be treated with a heavy dose of teenagers and fill water.

Here's a link to get the K-1766 on amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...EU/scouscho-20 It's much cheaper than the big kit.

The IC40 cell mentioned is for a pentair SWCG. You need a T-CELL for your Aqua-rite swcg. There are different output sizes, and They are identified by model number.

T-CELL-15 is largest. I would recommend this one, because a smaller cell means you have to dial up the percentage more on the control panel. The higher the percentage, the shorter your cell will last you.

There is a GLX-CELL-15-W cell that will work with this unit. You probably don't want it. It has a 1 year warranty vs 3 year of T-Cell and will have a shorter lifespan as you'd expect. This cell is only about $20-30 cheaper on amazon, so not exactly a good buy.

T-Cell-15: http://www.amazon.com/Hayward-Goldli...RM/scouscho-20

There are many aftermarket salt cells on Amazon and the internet at large. I wouldn't mess with them. Mainly on account of the obvious concern about cell lifespan even with different versions of genuine hayward/goldline cells. You never know what you're going to get with an aftermarket unit.

P.S. I'm in the same boat as you right now. My aquarite cell gave up the ghost a month or so ago. I've been bleach chlorinating as i procrastinate about spending the $400 on a new cell.

Thanks, Kelemvor.

Thanks for the input, and all the advice!

Just got back from getting the salt levels read - a whopping 4500 ppm. Yikes. I will definitely get one of the check at home kits.

Also talked to the local pool repair guy who does Hayward warranty work. He think it sounds like the cell, but that a nice acid bath might fix it, so that is in progress right now. If that doesn't fix it, I'll replace the cell. I'm going to stick with the Hayward stuff and not go aftermarket - too scared of crummy warranties!

If the salt is too high for the generator to work obviously I'll dump-and-replace water, but assuming the washed, or new, cell claims to be generating when everything is back together, is there any long term harm in having salt that high? The generator itself says it wants up to 3400 ppm, but yesterday (when it thought the level was too low) it claimed to be generating, as if the crazy high level wasn't preventing it from working.

Thanks again for all the help!

Alison

I should have been more specific. I changed the cell and the control unit at the same time. In that case it doesn't matter what brand you choose. The Pentair was recommended to me, plus it had a three year warranty compared to replacing the cell only and getting a one year warranty from Aqua Pure. On top of that it was cheaper to replace the entire system with the Pentair than to only replace the Aqua Pure cell.

Regards

Pentair units work.

But I should note that the experiences reported here -- included my own, having installed 6 of the things -- suggest that they have a shorter life expectancy than other units. Again it's nothing absolute, but it seems the Hayward / Aqua-Rite and the AutoPilot units are preferable.

I bit the bullet and changed the cell and all is functioning again. I also got the salt down to 3800ppm (according to new unit) so I'm letting it go at that.

I had the local Hayward guy come do the work, partly to get it done as quickly as possible (going out of town, of course - my limited experience suggests that pools always stop working right before you are about to leave them for a few days...) and partly to have experience on hand if it turned out NOT to be the cell. He said that AquaRite has changed its panel configuration in the last couple of years to address the not-infrequent premature burn-out that has plagued the earlier models, so the newer panels are much more likely to live for longer. (I asked about this because I have had to replace a burnt out capacitor on my panel already, and it was only two when it burnt out! Capacitors croaking was the issue with the premature burn-out, which Hayward has now fixed.)

And I have ordered the salt-checking kit!

Thanks again for all the help and wisdom.

Alison

Did you ever try acid washing the cell? When you said you cleaned the cell originally I assumed you meant with acid. Acid washing is something that you're going to have to periodically do. There's even instructions in the aqua rite manual on exactly how to do it.

If you didn't try the acid wash, and haven't disposed of the cell then keep it as a backup.

Yes, I did the acid wash but it didn't change anything. I then got the new unit installed and have had no trouble with it since.