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Hello.
I am currently using the Bioguard products, upon reading this forum, I have noticed that I am paying too much for chemicals. How do I finish off the products(Smart shock and silk smart sticks) and still use this method? My K-2006 should arrive tomorrow so I do not have readings yet, although my basic kit shows ph at 7.5 and chlorine levels are not registering.
Post your results here:http://pool9.net/pf-hist-form/And your pool info, here:http://pool9.net/pf-pool-form/We're having a bit of a controversy here, among the moderators and I, about what to do with left-over chemicals. In many cases, we'd like to say, toss them, because often pool owners already have high stabilizer. But, it's generally illegal and often unsafe, to put them in the garbage. I just finished a preliminary version of a page on storing chemicals today: http://pool9.net/chem/store/
Probably the best bet is to use them up, but you may have to run high levels of chlorine to compensate for high stabilizer. I can't tell till you post results and info.
. . . membership upgraded.
Thank you for your response,
Chlorine- too low to register
Ph-7.4
TA-250
CH-400
Cya- too high to give a number! Was only able to add 1.8ml before black for disappeared.
I was just getting ready to put some more of the shock in, but wasn't sure how much to use.
Next time your do your CYA test, mix 1/4 cup pool water with 1/2 cup tap water. Test, and then multiply x3 for your actual CYA level.
Do NOT buy any more stabilized chlorine -- dichlor or trichlor, in any form.
Do go ahead and add more chlorine ASAP -- I can't tell you how much, because I don't have your equipment form yet!
Also read about muriatic acid, and lowering alkalinity . . . because you're gonna need that:http://pool9.net/ma/
http://pool9.net/alk-step/
[QUOTE=PoolDoc;120742]Post your results here:http://pool9.net/pf-hist-chart/I must not know what I am doing as I am unable to type or edit this document
And your pool info, here:http://pool9.net/pf-pool-form/Done
My bad: http://pool9.net/pf-hist-form/ . I need to come up with better links, because those confuse me!
I recalc-ed your pool volume, after looking at your submitted dimensions, and Google maps (since you submitted your address -- which only I can see). I posted 15K gallons, but because of the free form indents, it's actually probably less. That puts you in the norm: way more than 50% of pool owners have significantly incorrect figures for their volumes, and more than 3/4 of the errors or on the high side. Since such errors sell more chems, pools stores have NO incentive to correct them.
Anyhow, on your pool, with a PF of 8, a pound of trichlor (90% avail. cl.) will add ~ 7 ppm (8 x 0.9). A gallon of PLAIN 8% househould bleach (~0.7 lbs Cl2 equiv) will add about 6 ppm (8 x 0.7).
Did you retest your CYA?
Performed the CYA test, black dot disappeared at 85.
Chlorine is 1 and Ph is 7.5
So, if you diluted as Ben suggested above, then you need to multiply the reading of 85 x3 = 255.
If it were my pool and I was able, I'd probably drain and refill a good bit of that water since you have a ridiculously high CYA. But, where you live there may be water restrictions. Wait and see what Ben's recommendation is for you.
But, get some bleach in there. A chlorine of 1 is an open invitation to algae. I'd probably put about 4 of the 121-oz jugs of bleach in there.
I just entered my new test results. I dumped 4 jugs of bleach last night. I going to put in 4 more tonight. I have a cartridge filter, is it ok to be putting bleach directly in filter basket area or spread around pool? Seems as though I also need a feeder, any recommendations?
I think the cartridge will be find, but if you like, just put one in the skimmer and the rest in the pool.
You need to continue with the 4 bottle doses daily, till you can hold chlorine overnight. After that, you'll need to achieved 15 - 20 ppm levels, in order to keep your pool algae free, given the CYA=250 level that you reported.
New test!
It appears the chlorine is staying in better but pH is down and TA is up. Both CH and CYA are down slightly.
I will continue the 4 jugs regimen tonight. As for pH, it took 6 drops to bring the color to 7.5ppm. Should be adjusted before or after adding bleach to pool. Day or night?
It doesn't matter if you add bleach first or Borax but you need to test your pH when the chlorine level is no higher than 10ppm. Otherwise, you'll get a false pH reading. (On kits other than Taylor kits, the pH test is only valid if the chlorine is no higher than 5ppm.)
Keep in mind what your goals are:
1. Chlorine levels stable overnight.
2. PH between 7 & 8 all the time; for you with high CH, 7.2 - 7.6 would be good.
3. Once chlorine is stable overnight, you want to maintain FC levels that range between 5 & 10% of your CYA level (225).
New results entered
Chlorine has stayed stable overnight. Unfortunately, with FC at 11ppm, based on your previous post I may be getting inaccurate pH readings.
I had pool at about 15ppm on FC, but chlorine odor was pretty strong. I figure 11-13 is a decent number with CYA levels where they are.
There should not be any chlorine odor at 15 ppm UNLESS there's something in the water to still oxidize. As we speak, I have a heavily used 200,000 gallon local country club pool at 15 - 20 ppm FC . . . and the water is completely odorless.
.
Fair enough, I will continue to monitor.
So, we did some make shift aeration this weekend. Seems as it had a small effect.
Added 2 jugs of bleach after this test was taken.
ok. keep us posted.
Posted new test results.
Added 1/2 gallon muriatic acid to reduce pH levels. According to this post http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/lowe...p-by-step.html
I am going to lower to 6.8 as this is the lowest my tester will go, I will then begin the aeration to lower the TA.
How long should I wait before the next dose of acid to lower pH?
The aeration raises the pH, not lowers the TA. Don't drop the pH to 6.8 on your kit because by doing so, you don't know if 6.8 means 6.8 or any value lower. Lower it to 6.9 or 7.0 instead. You add the next dose of acid when your pH is raised back up to 7.6 or so.
New results posted, seeing nice results in TA and CYA.
Will continue aeration and add a small amount (1/4 gallon) of acid to lower pH.
Looking good.
I'd caution against testing CYA so often. There's a very limited number of CYA tests in the kits.
It only changes when you add it (directly, or by using dichlor or trichlor), when you drain pool water, or when it's consumed by bacteria (usually over the winter).
On the topic of disposing of toxic waste (as chlorine tablets would qualify)...You need to check with your town and possibly your county. I would presume that California, like New Jersey, has very strict laws on disposal of such substances (I have a can of gas that has been contaminated with water and I have to wait till October to dispose of it). We have only 2 collection days a year for it. You cannot just (legally) put it in the trash or wash it down the drain.
Opening my pool for the summer!
I have added my readings to the spreadsheet. FC at 3.2 and CC at 0, pH 7.8, TA 125, CH 350 and CYA 120(appears to have lowered over winter.
My goal is to add 2 gallons of bleach tonight and maintain levels overnight and shoot for FC to stay between 6 and 12.
Am I on the right track?
With a CYA of 120, (assume you diluted), I would aim higher with that FC. See: http://poolsolutions.com/gd/best-gue...e-chart.html#a
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by FormerBromineUser
You need to maintain "shock" level appropriate for your CYA level until all 3 of these conditions are met:
1. Water is clear
2. CC is less than .5ppm
3. Overnight FC loss is less than 1ppm (test FC after sunset, then again the next morning before the sun hits the pool)
:)