Newly Registered-Lots of Problems

32,000 gal plaster chlorine pool sand filter. I believe I have way too much HTH algecide in my pool in trying to remove the algea from the plaster paint. We have partially drained and are at a standstill.The remaing water is blue/gray cloudy and yes, it has burned off or ate up every single ounce of bleach. Any hope for clearing without draing? Thanking you in advance. Jacqueline in North Texas

Hi and welcome to the Pool Forum!

We'll need some additional info to be able to help.

1. What size pump and what size of filter?
2. Exactly what all have you added to the pool, meaning ingredients and not just product names like 'shock.'
3. Do you have a drops-based test kit? If so, what kind? Post current numbers.

The test kit that we think is by far the best is the Taylor K2006 or 2006C (better buy). Not available locally but you can get it through this link that takes you to Amazon: http://pool9.net/tk/

But, in the meantime, go to Walmart and see if they have the HTH 6-Way drops-based kit (no test strips!) and get that. If they don't, get an OTO/Phenol Red kit (yellow and red drops) instead. Use it to test and then post your numbers. Also while you are at WallyWorld, get several jugs of their generic 8.25% bleach and a couple of boxes of 20 Mule Team Borax (laundry aisle).

Repost with requested info and then someone here can try and help you.

(Until you registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum while you are logged in. So, copy that link and then paste it into a browser window after you log out.)

Thank you so much for responding. Last year I did go to the BBB system, but late in August could not get algea under control. I used the HTH 3XConcentrate. We cover our pool and I was ill this winter and not taking care of it. Uncovering in the last two weeks it was black. Over a period of 2 1/2 weeks we have added maybe 9 or 10 jugs of Clorox 3 X Concentrate each the equivalent of 182 ounces of bleach which if my math is correct is about 14 gallons. The water turned gray/blue and very cloudy and there were algea stains on the walls and steps. Over that period I added approximately 40 ounces of HTH 3XConcentrate. Yes I now know after reading more thoroughly that was not good. I went out and got the test kit and the things I needed. My test kit shows ZERO Chlorine and a 7.2 ph. HELP

crandies here again. Sorry I forgot about the filter and pump. My pump says Total HP-200. My sand filter is a Triton II TR100. Specs if they help.
filtration 15
flow rate 74 (280(
filtration area 4.91 s.f.
psi 50 maximum working

What test kit did you buy? Take current readings and post them. Do you know the hp of your pump and how much sand your filter holds?

I am not sure that my post went through. HTH 3way kit. 600 lbs of sand. 2 hp pump. sorry, this is all new to me. J

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Zero chlorine and 7.2 ph. HTH3 way test kit

Should I start putting water in my pool. I am really lost here. We are in our 60's and do not have the strength or money to pay a pool company. I am unsure if any of my other post have gone through. I am not a computer person.

Questions, then answers.

1. What *exactly* is the label name of the Clorox product you added to your pool?

I can't find "Clorox 3 X Concentrate" on the Clorox website. I need to find out what you've been adding to the pool. Regardless, do NOT put any more in your pool. It is not possible to have bleach that is 3X as concentrated as plain store brand 8% household bleach.

2. Is your pool vinyl, fiberglass, concrete or something else?

3. Have you drained it? If not, how full is it?

(Do NOT drain it, if you haven't done so already!)

4. Is the pump running now?

5. If it's not drained, what does the water look like, now?


OK. Answers . . . and instructions.

1. I can't offer much advice yet, till you answer the questions above. I'm rather worried about what you've put in the pool.

2. If your local Walmart carries it, please get an HTH 6-way drops test kit => http://pool9.net/tk-hth6/ But, don't use it yet.

3. Check and see if you have access to a Sams Club in your area, and if so, whether they carry the PoolBrand dichlor. I'm guessing you may not have any stabilizer in your water. If so, the dichlor is a good choice for you. http://pool9.net/sams-dichlor50/

The Clorox I am using is sold at Costco in a box of Three 3.78 qt (121 fl oz) . The box states "NOW CONCENTRATED 3 x 121oz = 3 x 182 oz. Sodium Hypochloride 8.25%". I did fill up what I had drained and started the pump yesterday. This morning it is raining very heavily. Thank you so much for your suggestions. When it stops raining I will purchase a better test kit and put them to use. Frustrated in Texas.

OK, good.

But, that's just the standard bleach concentration these days -- identical to the store brand bleach at Walmart.

Do *NOT* wait for it to stop raining, to take care of your pool. For some reason, many -- maybe most? -- people seem to think that they can abandon pool care during rainy spells. This has led to the myth that rain brings algae, but it's actually the lack of care that results in algae, not the rain.

You MUST maintain appropriate chlorine levels, even when it's rainy. As I wrote on PoolSolutions.com many years ago now, "pools can be easy, but are not forgiving". If you neglect your pool, even for brief periods, you WILL end up regretting it.

Okay I have everything I need for now. Pool is a loverly shade of green. Pumps running. Here are my readings from the 6-way kit.
Chlorine - 0
Ph - 7.5
Alkilinity - 120 ppm
Hardness - 190 ppm
I am getting no rating at all on CYA

What next?

The Clorox is like the undiluted laundry detergents they make today. There is just less water in the jug and you are supposed to use less. A box of 3 are 8.29 at Costco.

Sorry, but it's not possible -- chemically -- to have a 3x bleach (25%) concentrate using standard methods. If they tried to make it, it would break down before it arrived at the store!

This paper: http://www.powellfab.com/technical_i..._Pisarenko.pdf
describes a newly developed method of making 30% bleach that is transportable and will last up to a couple of weeks. But this is brand new technology.

To the best of my knowledge, NOBODY is selling bleach to consumers with more than 12.5% sodium hypochlorite. The industrial bleach I used buy in tanker loads was delivered within a day of manufacture, and arrived at 16 - 17% strength, though it was sold as 15%. If you spilled it on cotton rags, it would start a fire!

SO . . . I'm STILL not sure what you bought, but I AM sure it was not 24% bleach!

Please read the label and tell me what it reports, either as "X% available chlorine" or as "X% sodium hypochlorite".

Sorry, I missed the previous post:

Quote:

---

I am getting no rating at all on CYA
What next?

---

Purchase and use Sams Club dichlor if you can: http://pool9.net/sams-dichlor50/ This is undiluted dichlor (56% available chlorine) and will add 9 ppm of CYA for every 10 ppm of chlorine added.

the "3X" is in reference to having 3 jugs in of 8.25% bleach in one package.

It reads Sodium Hypochlorite 8.25% and available chlorine 7.85%
I do not know why it says "CONCENTRATED" right across the top of the bottle. I know very little (well okay nothing) about chemistry except not to clean your bathroom with bleach and ammonia at the same time. I did go out and brush the pool and it started raining again. It is green. the hardness is too high and my CYA shows no reading at all. Should I use the Borax (is this the stabilizer)? Or start with the bleach? Thank you.

My readings are:
Chlorine -0-
Ph 7.5
alkalinity 120ppm
hardness 190 ppm
no rading on CYA

Borax is not stabilizer, it raises pH. Since your pH is great, you don't need borax right now. You do need chlorine. I'd start with about 4 jugs this evening after the sun is off the pool. Since you have no stabilizer (cyanuric acid or CYA), the sun will "burn up" LOTS of chlorine. If you wait until the sun isn't shining on the pool, ALL the chlorine you add will go to burning up algae. Set your filter to recirculate and run 24/7 till algae is dead.

Thank you so much. I will do that. Where does the CYA come from?

The easiest way to add CYA is the diclor PoolDoc referenced earlier. 1ppm chlorine also adds .9ppm CYA. Triclor tabs add CYA, AND lower pH. You can also get granular cyanuric acid at pool store/lowes/home depot/walmart.

Just use the dichlor that PoolDoc linked above. If you use it for awhile, your CYA will build up fairly quickly. Don't run anymore CYA tests until:
1) You have added granular CYA separately and it has been a week since you have done so

OR

2) You have been using Dichlor for a week to 10 days.

Otherwise you will just be wasting your CYA testing reagents.

If you will let us know if you prefer to add CYA separately or use Dichlor which will add CYA at the same time it is adding chlorine, then we can give you a little more specific instructions.

Hope this helps.

Thank you all so much. This morning I can actually see the bottom of the shallow end. I am very excited about keeping up this program. One more question. Should I continue to put the Leslies tabs in the floater?

Yes, that's fine: they add both chlorine and CYA.

Just watch your pH and add borax as needed: trichlor is very acidic.