Dealing w/Algae for 3 weeks

Question: How do we proceed to clear up the algae/cloudiness in our pool and then maintain it?

For two months all was fine with our NEW AG vinyl pool. On 07/20/2012 we developed algae and have been fighting it since. Some improvement, but the pool is white/green cloudy with some (dead?) algae on the bottom.

Earlier I had filled out the Pool Chart form, but not all of it. I wanted to complete it today, but couldn’t figure out how access it to edit it. So, I’ve listed a lot of additional information, below.

TAYLOR TEST KIT IS ON IT'S WAY! I thank you for any help you may be able to offer us! Peggy (TheKs)

POOL HISTORY
Regional Location: Washington, North Carolina (inner coastal region)

Purchased AG Summer Escapes Vinyl Pool 05/01/2012 – 12’ x 36” round – Approx gals: 2,000

Intex 0.5 HP 14” Sand Filter/Pump – Model SF15110 – 1600 GPH

25 LBS Aqua-Chem Pool Filter Sand Plus from Lowes (contains crystalline silica)

All day sun exposure with a nearby tree (we do NOT have problems with excessive leaves)

05/05/2012: Water Fill Levels (City Water)
Free Chlorine: 0
Total Chlorine: 0
Combined Chlorine: 0
PH: 7.6
Hardness: 80 ppm
Alkalinity: 170 ppm
Cyanuric Acid: 0
Copper: 0
Iron: 0

Chemicals used in the pool so far this season
Lowes Safer Muriatic Acid
Aqua Chem PH Down (93.2% sodium bisulphate, 6.8% other ingredients)
Aqua Chem Shock (99% dichlor)
Proteam 3” Pure Tabs (floater tablet): 99% trichlor 1% other
Proteam UV Shield (used once): no ingredients listed on the bottle
Aqua Chem Clarifier (rarely used) – no ingredients listed on the bottle
Proteam Prevent Algaecide: Active ingredients: Alkyl (50% C14, 40% C12, 10% C16), dimethyl benzyl, ammonium chloride – 50%
Other ingredients: 50%

Maintenance up until algae developed 05/07-2012 thru 07/20/2012
Shock, as needed to maintain 1-4 ppm chlorine)
Floater Tablet - every other day to maintain chlorine at 1 – 4 ppm & Cyanuric Acid at 40-50 ppm
PH Down, as needed, to maintain 7.6 – 7.8 PH
Safer Muriatic Acid from Lowes to maintain Alkalinity at approx 120 ppm
Proteam Prevent ½ oz weekly to prevent algae
Tested chlorine/PH daily with Aqua Chem drop tester and Insta Strips
ALSO Tested weekly at our local Pool Shop
Filter on 4 hours every night
Vacuumed & brushed weekly (Walmart garden hose type vacuum)
Reduced water volume when it increased after using the garden hose vacuum
Monthly Backwash

Husband’s actions (in my absence) following the presence of algae (07/20/2012 thru 08/05/2012)
Home tested daily & twice a week with Pool Shop, same as above
Filter 6 hours nightly
Shock 2-3 times weekly
Floater tablet, left it in the pool all the time
PH decreaser, as needed
8 oz baking soda to boost Alkalinity from 80 ppm to 120 ppm (eventually crept up to 166 ppm)
Safer Muriatic Acid to reduce Alkalinity, in 3 increments with aeration (brought it down to 127 ppm)
1 oz Proteam Prevent to control algae - two times per week
Aqua Chem Clarifier: (husband added it during my 2 week absence and I don’t know how much or how often)

Maintenance since I returned (08/05/2012 – 8/13/2012)
Filter on 24/7
Home testing daily & three times a week with Pool Shop, same as above
2 cups 6% bleach, nightly, to maintain chlorine at approx 10 ppm
Muriatic Acid & aeration to maintain alkalinity at approx 120 ppm
PH Down to decrease PH and maintain at 7.6 – 7.8
Floater tablet removed because it was increasing the Cyanuric Acid level quite rapidly
Vacuuming with new Pool Blaster Catfish & filter vacuums: 3 times daily
Brushing: daily
Backwashing/Rinsing: weekly

Current pool levels (as of 08/13/2012)
Free Chlorine 10.23 ppm
Total Chlorine 10.23 ppm
Combined Chlorine 0
PH 8.6 (added 8ozs PH Decreaser today)
Hardness 58.0 ppm
Alkalinity 127.0 ppm
Cyanuric Acid 58.0 ppm (removed tablet floater from the pool)
Copper 0
Iron 0

If you aren't under any water restrictions, and don't have especially expensive water, the easiest and fastest way is simply to drain and refill, and then follow the recipe here:
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?17055

A couple of comments on the stuff you have:

1. Don't use any more of the "Safer Muriatic" acid -- we haven't been able to confirm that the additives are pool compatible.

2. Both dichlor and trichlor will lower your pH when used regularly. If you want, just max your trichlor floater out, till your CYA level reaches 40 ppm. Use 1/2 doses of dichlor for startup, along side the trichlor floater.

3. If you use the dichlor / trichlor, the alkalinity and pH issues with your fill water should resolve themselves.

4. You do NOT want to use the Proteam algaecide -- it's a mess. BUT, you can use it to clean up your pool if you drain. Just drain 3/4 of the pool, add ALL the algaecide, slosh it around with a brush, and leave it overnight. Slosh again the next day and finish draining. That should take care of your algae, and give you a clean pool to refill. (The algaecide, at that concentration, is also a fairly good detergent. But it's very irritating, so don't get in the pool with it.)

5. If you need to shock, use a double dose of PLAIN 6% bleach.

6. Do NOT use any other chemicals except the trichlor, diclor, bleach and -- if the pH goes low -- borax. Don't use the acid of any kind unless the pH goes above

7. Don't add bicarb; don't add stabilizer; don't add clarifier.

8. Intex cartridges are supposed to be replaced every 2 weeks. If yours are past that, get new ones. Ideally, get Unicels (info below).

9. Tell me how you like the "Catfish".

Ben

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+ The OEM cartridges in Intex / Summer Escapes / etc. filters are not high quality. The Intex manuals recommend replacing them completely every 2 weeks. A BETTER option is to replace them permanently with 2 - 3 Unicel cartridges, and rotating them through a cleaning solution. Properly maintained, the Unicel cartridges will last all season AND will filter better. So even though they cost more per cartridge, they cost less per season! Learn to maintain them, by reading this post, Cleaning-your-Cartridge-Filter-wiithout-Damaging-It!

Thank you very much for your suggestions, however, our water is extremely expensive here and I hoped to be able to get things under control a little less expensively than draining & refilling, if possible? Can I resolve this without draining/refilling?

We do NOT have a cartridge filter, but rather a sand filter: Intex 0.5 HP 14” Sand Filter/Pump – Model SF15110 – 1600 GPH

You said: "Don't use the acid of any kind unless the pH goes above" But you didn't give a figure. I will presume it is above PH 8??

We have a continued problem with HIGH PH and HIGH Alkalinity, so we have regularly had to use an acid to keep it balanced. For example, today's PH readings are 8.6.

As for the Catfish...I like the results of it very much, but using it is bothersome. There is no on/off switch, instead you have to turn a lid to get it to turn on and it is very difficult. It is also difficult to get that same "lid' off in order to access the port to recharge it. Putting on the filter bag is equally as difficult.
Nice concept, but not well engineered, unfortunately.

Thanks again for all that you do here!
Peggy (TheKs)

Add acid if the pH goes above 7.8.

Thank you!

As an update, I wanted to say that I decided not to drain the pool even though it may have been an easier process. We had gotten this small pool as an experiment and thought it would give us a chance to learn. And learn, we did! We read everything we could find on the forum and the pool is now a sparkling blue. In addition to ridding the pool of the algae, I have included some DE to our sand filter and indeed it does add a pleasing sparkle!

To try to deal with the continuing problems with high PH and high alkalinity, I've just gone through the process of adding borates as per the instructions for adding Borax. I am in the phase of waiting for 48 hours before testing the borate level (and once again, trying to bring down the high PH level). I am hoping this will be an added "inoculation" against algae and the PH pendulum.

Thank you for all the wonderful information!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheKs

As an update, I wanted to say that I decided not to drain the pool even though it may have been an easier process. We had gotten this small pool as an experiment and thought it would give us a chance to learn.

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An excellent approach!

To deal effectively with alkalinity, you will have to have a decent test kit. The HTH 6-way drops kit is adequate for that, but you'll either have to have that or the K2006. Links below.

Ben

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+ Here are links to the kits we recommend (you can check local availability on the HTH kit, using the Walmart link):

HTH 6-Way Test Kit @ Walmart
Taylor K2006A (3/4 oz bottles) @ Amazon
Taylor K2006C (2 oz bottles) @ Amazon

I received the Taylor K2006 test kit last week and have been using it every day. No problems figuring out how to use it.

We couldn't manage without it!

Thanks for all the great info for us to learn how to maintain a pool most effectively!

you're welcome. ben

Ok, now that I have the pool under control, here are some maintenance questions:

Current Status
FC - 6 ppm
CC - 0 ppm
TC - 6 ppm
Nighttime chlorine loss: none
Daytime chlorine loss: 0.5 - 1.0 ppm loss
PH - 7.6
ALK - 127
CYA - 40
Pool Temp: 82 degrees
Usage: 3 adult swimmers, average 3-4 times a week
Debris: very little daily debris

Are the above levels a good standard to strive to maintain?
How often should I test the water per week?
When/how often should I shock the pool?
Is it best to shock using 6% bleach or dichlor?
Is it ok that I don't want to use the trichlor tabs in our floater very often because our pool is so small and it can add a lot of cyanuric acid very quickly?

Thanks again!
Peggy

From what I've seen on this forum, if you maintain your current levels, you shouldn't have to shock. Shocking would be if your FC& CC levels start changing on their own, meaning there is something eating up your FC. According to the Best Guess Chart, you are looking good.

Your numbers look great!

How often to test? Every evening.

When to shock? Only if you start seeing algae, have cloudy water, start having an increased chlorine demand, if you detect a CC reading greater than 0.5ppm or if your chlorine level drops below the minimum level needed for your CYA level.