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I'm not experienced with PVC pipe fitting but it sounds easy enough. I have a pretty short distance between my heater and where my return line dives into the ground. The install manual says you need so much straight pipe prior to the cell so the flow sensor works properly. How critical is that? Is the electrical complicated? :confused:
I didn't put mine in, but watched like a hawk while my builder put it in. The chlorinator + flow meter are probably 12 to 14" long with 2" outside fittings, so you will need that much space.
The electricals are quite easy. The system comes with 2 sets of wires that plug in. A white wire set, about the thickness of a toaster plug, runs the chlorinator and is prewired at the chlorinator and plugs into the controller. The flow meter is also pre-wired and has a telephone plug at the other end that goes into the controller.
Our controller is on the same circuit that the pump is on, both controlled by an Intermatic timer. All in all, if you have wired anything in your house, you should be able to do it. The one thing I learned from my PB, clean, then clean, then clean again when you are joining PVC. I would not hesitate to install one myself if I had too (of course, I've seen it done!).
Wiring the SWG controls to the same (timer-controlled) AC line as the pump doesn't sound like a good idea to me: pumps are 'noisy', I suspect they have large surge currents like an air conditioner (not really sure though), and would likely produce voltage spikes when turned off.
All of these are bad for integrated circuits and transistors; any voltage spikes on the ground line during turn-off can easily blow most ICs
I know that Hayward also recommends wiring to the pumps AC supply, not really sure why since I think they still have a flow sensor anyway.
Comments on pump spikes/noise/etc welcome, as I am not really sure how bad the problem is.:confused: I know that a light bulb on the washing machine circuit really flucuates with the wash cycle
Maybe I'll hook up a light bulb to my pump power and try a few on-off cycles .
My old SWG is a Pure&Clear model, with the cell actually in the pool; it was installed using a GFI receptacle. I guess cells that mount in line don't need GFI protection
Mike K
I'm not sure wiring it any differently would make THAT much of a difference...Even with my (expensive) Polaris EOS the power all comes from one big fuse block fed by the same 230 volt input, so any big surges from the pump are likely to affect the whole system...Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmrk49
I have basically the same question about my install. My pool is an older setup as well (now being modernized in equipment at least with a Polaris EOS and my new Waterco 2 speed pump sitting on the pad waiting for me to install it once I get my 2 speed relay)..I've been debating installing a SWG (the Polaris Auto Plus of course, since it wires right into my wireless controller)...They recommend 22 inches straight pipe to wire it in to the plumbing AFTER the heater, but I have at most 12 inches from heater to dive into the ground.
Polaris also shows an install with a bypass manifold of sorts, basically splitting off flow and running part of the flow straight through a check valve and the bypass holding the SWG cell..
Anyone else install this way? It would sure make my plumbing easier for the cell (I could even put it after the 3 way valve for the spa on the pool return if I wanted then (which also has very little spare room))
Comments?
Good point about using the same AC supply, my system has a ganged 30A at the main breaker box. that supplies pump and lights and SWG (seperate CBs in the control box though).Quote:
Originally Posted by cschmelz
I'm not sure whether having the SWG already powered up when the pump turns on would be better or worse under these conditions.
I still think it is bad to have SWG and pump on same AC line, but running an extra AC line would be expensive - running it in same conduit as the pump would mean derating the wires for both, i.e., using larger than normal wire sizes
MikeK
Salt Water Chlorinators consume very little amp draw on a circuit and is recommend to be tied into the same pump relay or terminals. AutoPilot for one, has been installing salt systems integrated with the pump circuit for over 12 years. The only time we recommend a direct connection to the circuit breaker is if you are using the unit to control a circulation pump.
While there is a flow switch to protect and turn the swc off when there is insufficient flow, its a better precaution to not have to rely on it all the time. IF you were to have a failure that indicates that there is flow and the cell gets energized (with the pump off), you're sure to accumulate dangerous hydrogen gases.
I just completed a new pool install in March this year that included among other things an SWG. I had the ground leveled, pool frame & liner installed but I completed the plumbing, deck, fencing, landscaping and electrical installation.
If you can glue and measure PVC piping the plumbing is no big deal. The Aquarite had directional arrows telling you which way the water should flow thru the cell and flow switch.
The Electrical is more important. There are strict pool wiring codes provided by the NEC. It's important that the entire system be grounded and bonded. I used THWN/THHN wire for all of my 4 circuits. All are protected by GFCI breakers. There is a separate ground rod at the pump house and a bonding loop that connects, pump motor, pool frame, deck & Aquarite.
I don't think anyone answered your plumbing question. According to the manual, you can count the cell in the 12 inches of straight pipe. I just installed my Aqua Rite last week and I mounted the cell on the vertical run of pipe from the filter outlet to the ground with the flow switch directly after the cell. It seems to be working fine that way. As far as the electrical goes it is pretty straight forward if you have ever wired anything before and the manual is good. I got the Goldline Aqua Logic control panel with mine and just took the 220v from my timer, and took off the "off" toggle from the timer.Quote:
Originally Posted by dbursch
Kevin,
If the Aquarite has stainless steel flow switch, you're better off installing the flow switch before the cell as the flow switch will eventually corrode.
Thanks for everyone's input. Am I hearing that if you have the SWG wired to the pump switch that you don't need to worry about flow sensor function (don't have to worry about so much straight pipe prior to the cell)?
How much wire length comes with the Aquarite? I will have to snake it in a U turn around to where my heater and chlorinaor are.
The Aquarite has lots of wire. Probably 10 or 12 feet on both the chlorinator wire and the flow meter. You still have to worry about the flow sensor, the unit won't run without it. However, the unit itself counts as the 12" of straight pipe. The flow meter is ad addtional 3 to 4". I would say the combo is 16" total. You also will need screw fittings at both ends of the unit for inspection and cleaning. Best bet, go to the aquarite site and download the manual. It has lots of pictures.
The Aquarite manual shows the flow meter after the Aquarite in all of the installation diagrams, so hopefully if it corrodes it will be under warranty.