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We are in the "design phase" of a new backyard in ground pool in Phoenix, AZ. I've decided against the builder's recommendation of ozone, thanks in part to info read here. Question, I'm being told that salt water pools (chlorine generators) have trouble keeping up in the hottest months. Is there any truth to that?
I'm down in Cochise County and have a SWCG. As long as you over-size your SWCG, you'll be fine. Typically during the hottest part of the summer (though we're a little cooler than you), there's been times where I have had to run mine as high as 75% output, but that was to maintain 7ppm FC and big bather "load." I think you'll love the SWCG. No more pool-sitters needed for vacations, softer water, easier on the eyes, etc, etc. If like me, you'll be battling constant creeping pH, so be aware of that. Not a big deal, I add about 1.5 cups of acid per week (13,500 gal pool).
Thank you for taking the time, I appreciate the feed back. Pretty much set on the SWCG, just have to determine specific system now. Thanks for the heads up on pH. I take it that has to do with our hard water?
Thanks again.
No, SWCG's tend to create an upward pH drift in pools.
You bet, anything I can help with, let me know. You'll LOVE your salt system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomak2
As Steveinaz said, you will want to stay away from the minimum size units and go with something rated at least 1 1/2 to 2 times larger than what is recommended for the size of your pool.
You will not have any trouble keeping your FC readings to 5 ppm. There is a delicate balance between electric bills, Unit size, Run time and chlorine levels. If you buy the minimum size SWCG, you will have to run it more hours per day, pay higher electric bills, and shorten the life of the Cell.
As Steveinaz also said, you will love the system once you get it dialed in. I live in Mesa, and it is the best thing I ever did to my pool.
Oh and BTW the continious pH rising has nothing to do with our hard water. It is a common occurance with SWCG's. See the FAQ Stickie at the top of the Salt Water section.
Once you have a good idea of what your pool size will be and what unit you are looking at, Post back and let us know.
I can confirm for you, as I'm awaiting my new pentair SWCG to arrive, and having to do the 'ol BBB method for a couple weeks---THAT I MISS MY SWCG! What pain in the rear adding bleach everyday. VIVA SWCG!
Here is another factor we sometimes forget---you can always "back out" of a SWCG if you find it's not your cup of tea (can't imagine that happening). You'd simply remove the cell, have straight PVC popped in place, and go back to traditional chlorination.
If your CYA is in the 50-80ppm range recommended by Pentair, and you dose according to the Best Guess Chart, you should be able to go every other day. If it's below that, you might want to buy some dichlor. On your pool (13K gallons), each pound of dichlor will add about 5 ppm of chlorine, and about 4.5 ppm of CYA. So, if your CYA is 40 ppm, and you need to get it up to 80, since it will drop slowly once the SWCG is back on, you can use about 30# of dichlor.
If you have a Sams Club nearby, they sell PoolBrand dichlor for ~2.20/lb for 50#, and ~3.00 for 12# bagged shock. Otherwise, you can get Kem-Tek dichlor for ~4.00/lb from Amazon, shipped free, in whatever size works.
Thanks Ben,
I've only done the following testing so far this spring, after the 1/2 drain:
CYA: 70ppm
Salt: 2600ppm (currently) will bump up for pentair this week to 3300ppm
TA: haven't done yet
CH: ran out of reagent! grrrr! Hopefully I'm in the 300's now, CH is a constant burden here.
Ph: 7.5
FC: Keeping it at 2ppm for the time being--water temp is 66 degrees
If you are feeling experimental, you could try lime-softening, which involves pushing the pH up over 10 with soda ash, precipitating the calcium as calcium carbonate, cleaning the System-3 beasts to remove the calcium, and then using muriatic to strip the excess alkalinity. Now that A&H washing soda is available at Walmart, it shouldn't be too expensive.
The Kem-Tek chemical developer says they've been doing this with Intex pool owners, and is willing to help me walk folks through the process. But it's not for beginners, till we've got it down. You'd need to turn off your SWCG and heater (if any) before starting. But, you should be able to take your calcium down to an arbitrarily low value, and remove most any stray metals in the water at the same time.
Ben,
When you say "calcium carbonate" is that the snowflake looking stuff?
Calcium carbonate is just limestone or marble dust (used in plaster) -- it's not something you add to your pool. Rather it forms when you have excess carbonate ions (from sodium carbonate or bicarbonate), calcium ions (from calcium chloride flake or beads, calcium hypochlorite . . . or your pool's walls), all at a high-ish pH level.
Probably, you are thinking of calcium chloride. The dihydrate (77% calcium chloride) is a flake; the anhydrous (90+%) is usually beads. The dihydrate (chemically bound water) is far more commonly sold than the anhydrous (no water) material).
Was AFK for a couple of weeks. Neat to see the additional info. It's rubber meets the road time, as we are submitting for permits. I have to make a decision on what mfg of equipment we're going to specify. With the info I've seen in the forum, I feel more confident. Thank you.
Good luck with your project--let us know how it's going!!
Quick question - was just looking at Doc's review of SWCG on another post...what is the salt range and how important is it? I notice two manufacturers have a very wide range, while the majority have a much tighter range.
I'm not 100% sure of the answer, but I would say that the range is dependent on the unit. Each unit will specify the salt range necessary for it to work correctly. If the salt level is too low, then it won't produce the chlorine you need.
There are SWCG'ers around here that I'm sure will chime in and give you a more definitive answer, though....
Each SWCG has its own requirements. Aylad is spot on right. You have to satisfy YOUR unit in order for it to produce adequate amounts of chlorine. 5 different pool stores (or tests) will give you 5 different salt levels. In the end, your Low Salt light or Salt Level Indicator on your unit must be satisfied for the unit to work correctly. And BTW cold water will affect your units ability to detect proper salt levels, so you can expect to see "Low Salt" warnings in colder weather, and consequentially, below about 60° F, your unit probably won't produce chlorine anyway.