City or well for fill water

Hi all, New member and 1st post. I set up my 1st pool 2 weeks ago. 18x4 steel frame AG. I filled it with well water as it's free and it's a deep well. I live in Florida. Everything seems to be fine right now except for a high TA, about 290. When the pool was filled the PH was 6.8 and I added PH plus and now it's 7.6. Been stable at 7.6 for over a week.

I assume the well water is the reason for the high TA?

If my PH has been stable should I worry about the hight TA?

To replace evaporated water, would you recommend I use the well water or city potable water which BTW has cloramine in it. I assume the cloramine is not good for the pool but neither is the well water if it's the reason for the high TA.

Should I add water using well or city?

I'm glad I found this site. I've learned alot reading everything and the people here seem so nice.

Steve

Test the water from your well. If the TA of the well water is high, then that's why. If your well water's TA isn't high, then something else is causing your high TA.

Steve,

We need water analyses from your City and well water for us to give you better advice.

I too live in Florida near Orlando, and do not use well water, as it would destroy my SWC cell. Too much bad egg smell in it.

Go with the City water for the moment, and keep your pH down to 7.3 to 7.4. If you can aerate using Ben's method in Alkalinity and Calcium forum, you should be able to bring the TA down.

We cannot suggest how much bleach to add until you give us a pool water analysis.

Pat

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PatL34

Steve,

Go with the City water for the moment

Pat

---

Why? The well water should do fine (and is free), as lowering high TA is relatively easy using the aeration method.

City water, and the trucks used for transport, can be problematic also.

However, I'd also recommend testing fill/well water to quantify TA, Cal, pH. Always good to know what's entering your pool.

Just my 0.02

CaryB
Go 'Canes!

Thanks for the replies. I'll test the well and city water tomorrow. Pat, what is a SWC cell? My well water also has the rotten egg smell, which I believe is a high sulfur content.

Ivyleager, our city water here in Fl is ground water and is basically treated well water. They treat it at the water plant with ammonia and Chlorine which is where the Chloramines comes from. Then it's pumped through the city.

Steve

SWC = Salt Water Chlorinator. Many here call them SWG = Salt water Generator. I prefer SWC.

If you ever get one, do not use the well water while you are circulating as the bad egg smell, hydrogen sulfide can destroy the coating on the cell in no time. Use well water only when filling from scratch, and city water for refilling or topping off.

Pat

We have city water and the TA regularly is 180-190ppm.

Well water:
PH 6.8
TA over 300

City water:
PH 7.8
TA 100

I'm assuming I should bite the bullet and pay the water bill and fill/add water with city water. What do you think?
Thanks,
Steve

If you have a PYROLOX iron filter (or get one) this will remove the iron and the Sulphur smell. Otherwise I woulldn't put un-filtered florida well water in a pool.

I live in N. Fl and use city water that has gone through my whole house filtration and softenter system. Nicely deals with the chlorimines (I have NO dectectable TC in my water after the filtration system and NO metals or sulfer...just have a high phosphate level as most of North and Central Florida does but since I have never had algae don't worry too much about it.) The untreaded city water had a definite sulfur smell to it and also high calcium hardness and some chloramines present. TA for my fill water is 110 ppm so I don't have to deal with that probler. Used to live in S. FL and the TA was throught the roof by comparison but there was no sulfer. Still had to deal with the chloromines adn the TA was pretty high.

The well water pH at 6.8 indicates some hydrogen sulfide gas. If you want to use it for adding or refilling without circulation, wait at least 6-8 hours before restarting circulation. As you don't have A SWC, the only problem I see is if there any metal parts in contact with the water. Samendolaro suggests using a PYROLOX iron filter, which I think is a great idea that I might try myself.

BTW could you also give us your CH and CYA values as well?

Pat

Well I'm now using city water for fill water since the TA of the well water is 300+. Using PoolDocs "HOWTO: Step-by-Step Guide to lowering your alkalinity" I've been able to bring my TA down to 240 from 300 in about 6 days. Is that about right time wise? I've got good areation going since I came up with a 45 degree adapter for my return on the pump and it's breaking the water surface nicely. Don't know how I'd do it without this forum.
Steve

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by StevenW

I've been able to bring my TA down to 240 from 300 in about 6 days. Is that about right time wise?

---

Yes - that is good progress. Keep aerating.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by StevenW

Don't know how I'd do it without this forum.
Steve

---

Neither do we! We love this forum!

TA lowering process has went well. In less than 10 days I've lowered my TA from over 300 to 90. Tested today and TA was 90 and PH 7.4. I've been aerating 24 hours a day and have been dilegent in keeping PH 6.6 -6.8 during the process. Should I stop aerating now?

Hi Steven, welcome to the forum! Yes, it's time to stop aerating, if I remember correctly your liner prefers 80 - 120 so 90 is a safe place and your pH @ 7.4 is also in the mid range (I always like to have a little room for change it makes it easier to catch a potential problem before it becomes a real problem)
Congrats on the great results using Ben's methods, pool stores would have had you carting lots of acid and pH plus to your house and probably wouldn't have given you the excellent water you now have.