Pump and filter set up, what else do I need? New Pool Owner - 33' AG

Wish I would have had enough fore thought to look for this site sooner. Just went through a nightmare in purchasing a 33' AG. After 6 no shows from the installers in 8 weeks time, we finally got our pool installed. Now I have questions because I don't trust the company that originally sold the pool to us. I say originally because after all of the no shows and a BBB complaint, we recieved a full refund AND the pool.

Pool size is 33' round, 54" deep.
Pump size: 1.5 hp GE pump
Filter: AquaView~AS 20" Sand Filter / 2 sqft / Mas Pres 25psi / 150 lbs sand

Question: The pump filter set up is flex pipe and I would like to replace with hard pipe eventually. For now though, what else should I consider adding. Bypass falve, flow rate meter, in line chlorinator (pool came with a floater).

Also, how often should i run my filter?

I apologize if some of the questions seem remedial but the dealer is of no assistance and, of course, no manuals or instructions of any kind came with the pool.......other than these nifty "No Diving" stickers.

Thanks in advance, and I look forward to learning a lot about the pool world.

Welcome to the Pool Forum! I'll let one of our equipment gurus help you with your plumbing questions. A few questions for you:

-- Do you have a good test kit? If not, you need one. Click on the Amazon link in my signature line below and get yourself a Taylor K-2006 or 2006C.
-- Is the pool filled yet? If so, was it filled from municipal water, well or ???
-- if it is filled, what all have you added to the pool thus far?

Probably a good idea to post a complete set of water testing results for someone here to take a look at. Also, go to our sister website www.poolsolutions.com and do a bunch of reading. Lots of good info there. Also, read through many of the posts on the Pool Forum. The more you read, the more questions that will probably be generated. Come back and ask away and also give us the info requested above.

Glad you found us and hope you enjoy the forum!

Thanks for the reply. Pool's not full yet, probably wont be full until Friday afternoon since I'm filling it from a garden hose. I do need a good test kit, thanks. What's the difference between the 2006 and the 2006C.

The 2006C has larger quantities of some of the most used reagents and is actually a better deal.

my 33 ft AG I try to run the filter on high about an hour (good mix of water before testing, and skimmer works better on high) then run on low overnight- about every other night. I'm not religious about a schedule as long as water stays clear and tests good; sometimes forget the pump for a day, sometimes leave on 1-2 days!

I'm guessing at the specs, but I think your filter's too small for your pump...or your pump's too big for your filter.

Assuming your pump's uprated (normal for AG pools) it's ballparking here, about the equivalent of a 1hp full-rated pump (normal for IG pools). And, a 1hp full-rated pump, like a Hayward Superpump, needs a 200# sand filter. One of our mods, Poconos (Al) goes for a 300# sand filter. That's because if you go over the filter's capacity, you have problems, but the performance improves the less of the capacity you use. So I run my pump on low speed and long ago noticed that my water gets clearer that way.

I'll let the pump pros confirm, deny, or refine my assessment.

BTW, what type of flexible plumbing do you have? If installed correctly, there's no reason to replace it. I use a combination of 1.5" hard PVC and 1.5" TigerFlex, which is flexible PVC that uses glued-on fittings just like the hard stuff. Al, at key points, actually uses automotive radiator hose, without any problem.

Carl

Doughboy tolf me today that the pump/filter combo that I have has a flow rate of 2,770 gph (I assume they meant filter rate).

Is it a single unit, or separate components hooked together?

Carl

They're seperate units hooked together.

Pool is almost full, should be full by noon tomorrow. I want to be prepared so how much chlorine/bleach would I need for roughly 26,000 gallon pool. Also, the pool came with two floaters and a bucket of 3" Tri-Chlor tabs, as well as 7 pounds of "Super Shock-It". Is any of this useful? It's taken three days to fill the pool so I'm sure there won't be much chlorine left once it's full enough for the pump to be turned on.

In a 26K gallon pool, each 3.5 quarts of 6% bleach will raise your Cl by just over 2 ppm, and with no stabilizer (CYA), you want to keep 3-6 ppm in your pool. Keep in mind that until you get stabilizer in the pool, the sun will eat up the chlorine very quickly, so you may need to add more 2-3 times daily--just don't let it get to zero.

If the trichlor tabs do not contain copper, and if your pH is well above 7.0, then you can use the tabs, they wil both add chlorine and CYA, and lower your pH. Careful, though, not to let the pH get below 7.0. You can use Borax or aerate the water to bring the pH back up. What is the ingredient in the super shock-it?

If you'll get a test kit, even if it's the 6-way drop kit from WalMart, or have the pool store test, it would be best to go ahead, run a set of tests, and post numbers here--then we can help you go from there.

Janet

OK, I'm about 6" -8" below the middle of the skimmer being full. I tested the water with a drop tester. Here's the numbers;

Chlorine: 00
pH: 7.8
Alk: 220

Where should I start? How long until my boys should be able to swim, they're about to worry the pants off of me. LOL!

I'd add MA to drop pH to 7.5, then add chlorine (like Aylad said, initially you can use trichlor or dichlor to get CYA also)
Other than immediately after adding chems, I've always been in the pool as soon as water was in! when you're filling with fresh water, it's as safe as drinking the water from the hose!

While madwil's technically not wrong, I would disagree with using Muriatic Acid to lower pH. Personally, in your case, I wouldn't do it. But it's your choice.

7.8 is a tad highish, but not seriously so and still a swimable level. Your Tri-Chlor tabs are super-acid and will, within a few days, bring that pH right down. Since you are using them anyway, let them do the work and don't risk over-shooting your pH goal. It won't take the Tri-Chlor long to bring it down to 7.6.

Your Alk is very high but I'm assuming your calcium level is very, very low, so it's not a serious problem.

You COULD add MA to bring your pH and alk down, then aerate to get the pH back up, and that's not wrong, but I prefer the more conservative approach:

Let the Tri-Chlor tabs bring the pH down slowly, then aerate your water to raise pH back up. This will gradually bring Alk down with it. Just do not use ANYTHING containing calcium.

Carl

Cl: 3
pH: 7.8
Alk: 200
CYA: 50

Question: How long will the stabilizer stay in the water without having to add more?

And, what should I do if we go on vacation for a week and can't be here to test and maintain for seven days?

I love this forum!! I was dreading having a pool but this forum has made it somewhat easy and for me, a fun learning experience.

Your CYA will last all summer. Also, in many cases, pools open with CYA still in there. Other pools lose it over the winter. (Mine usually does.)

Regarding vacation --- do you have anybody who can come by every 2 or 3 days and throw some bleach in for you?