Steps - Switching from Baquacil to Chlorine

Like so many others I’m used Baquacil (for 2 seasons at our house here in middle TN) and I’m ready to switch to chlorine – as part of ‘pool start-up’ for this season. However, I do have a few questions in order to move forward in the process – and after reading several of the postings on this forum (and some others as well), all of which have been very informative to me personally (I’m not a long term pool owner)!

We have an in-ground pool of ~ 20,000 gallons in size (with the cover still on due to rainy & cold spring weather) and the test results from the local pool supply / builder (as of today May 20th) is as follows:
Baq. = 0, pH = 7.08, Alk = 1, Shock = 3, and a water temp. of 62 degrees.

Additionally, as of this p.m., I’ve purchased a Taylor 2006 tester in order to better monitor the change over to chlorine – and hopefully on to a chlorinator system at a later date. But…first things 1st, I’d like some recommendations with the steps in order to open / start-up the pool using chlorine – given that the cover is still on the pool, no pump / water circulation thus far, and looking kind of scummy on the bottom & sides?

With the current Baq. level at (or near) zero, and the pH at 7.08, my best guess is that 1st - I need to clean and vacuum the pool utilizing the sand filter, 2nd – change the sand within the filter, 3rd – add some amount of stabilizer, 4th - start adding chlorine (in the form of bleach) in order to obtain a FC level of ~ 1ppm, - all the while making checking / making sure the pH level is maintained ~7.0 (or slighter higher), followed by raising the Alk level (based on the type of chlorine to be used long term).

But, like I said prior, this is only my best guess – so any and all inputs would be welcomed!
Gene

The guide at the following link outlines the procedure for converting. You made a good decision to buy a good test kit. That is going to make the process much easier! Keep us posted how things are going and let us know if you have additional questions. Read some of the other posts in the Baquacil section of the forum (or Baquagoop as we like to call it) and also take some pictures to document the conversion. You are going to be so glad you converted once the process is finished!

Welcome to the Pool Forum!

http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/conv...-chlorine.html

Watermom,
Thank you for your response! I have read many of the guides, and have printed a few so as to add my notes, but I do need to read some in the Baquacil section. Taking some pictures is a very good idea and I will keep you posted. Did you have any comments / concerns with regard to the steps I was suggesting?

GeneNTN

I wouldn't bother with cleaning the pool yet and especially not changing the sand. I'd just start adding bleach. You say that your Baq. level is at zero or close, but you may find out that you do still have a little more in there than you think. When you add the bleach, you'll find out. It may turn some funky shades of green. After you are able to hold a chlorine level overnight and the pool water remains clear, then is the time to change out the sand. Wait to vac until you see if your pool does turn green. No sense in wasting water. Keep us posted with progress.

second what watermom said- don't change your sand until after you get a clear pool, the residual baquacil can cause you to have to change again!

Yeah, you'll need to change the sand when it's all done, no choice in the matter, but it's a total waste of time and money to do it before.

Filter Sand is usually pretty cheap. A lot of the stores in my area regularly put it on sale for $5-$7 per 50lbs.

Carl

madwil & CarlD (and all others!),
Your feedback is greatly appreciated – changing of the filter sand will be delayed until after a stable FC level (overnight) has been established. Sand in our area is $10-13 / 50 lb bag – as the local choices are very limited! Once the test kit arrives ~Tuesday (I hope), I’ll start dumping the bleach into the pool. Have a great day!
Gene

Finally - an update!

After several days of very heavy rain showers - and more scheduled for later tonight, I un-covered / our pool, the water level was ~3-4” high, proceeded to start the circulation pump, brushed the pool walls & bottom, and cleaned some of the floating debris. And, took some pictures!

With my new Taylor K-2006 test kit in hand, the following readings were completed (or at least attempted!).
FC - 0 (did not turn pink!)
PH – 7.6
TA ~ 50 (purple instead of red, biquanide is assumed)
CH ~ 60 (purple color once again, 2nd on 2nd test the Hardness Agent was added 1st, but turned very light blue after the R0016 reagent was added, assumed 6 x 10 =60?).

Added 10 gal. of chlorine bleach (6%) - in order to proceed with the changing from Baquacil to Chlorine – and the water soon begun to take on a whole new nature (brownish green?)! So the water / pictures in the a.m. should really be interesting!

Should I re-test later tomorrow evening or just add the next batch of bleach?

Like always, any and all thoughts are welcomed!
Gene

I would test for FC and add bleach as often as possible- add enough to get FC to 15, keep adding (hourly isn't to often) however often you can until the pool holds the FC, then continue your conversion.
The more frequently you add the bleach, the faster the process will go- it's just like shocking the pool to get rid of algae, your just "killing" the chemicals from Baqua instead of a plant!

Switching from Baquacil to Chlorine
Friday, May 27, 2011
As of 7 p.m. our pool has a cloudy bluish color (can not see the bottom in the shallow end), along with some floating matter and a smell of chlorine (from the dead junk still in the water?). However, not as bad as I originally expected, especially after only one 10 gallon dose of sodium hypochlorite (6%). Throughout the day today I did brush the sides and bottom of the pool – but I have NOT added any other additives! The test results for this evening are as follows:

Water temp = 68 degrees
FC = 20 ppm
CC = 10 ppm
pH = 7.0 (low)
TA = 50 ppm
CH = 40 ppm

My best guess would be to raise the pH level first by adding 2.0 – 2.2 lbs of Sodium Carbonate (Borax), via a sock in the strainer. However, I not sure if the high CC level should be addressed as well? The TA & CH could be increased once the pH has been raised.

A secondary question, is it possible that with a FC = 20ppm (24 hrs after the first dosage) has our pool for the most part already completed the transition from Baquacil to chlorine? From what I have read, this seems unlikely to me? But if this is fact true, when should we consider changing the filter sand, etc.?

In advance – “thank you” for taking your time to read and answer my concerns!
Gene
PS – A Great Weekend to everyone & and please take time on Memorial Day to remember all of our military – Past & Present!
PSS – I have some progress pictures of our pool, but not yet allowed to post any attachments. However, I could send them to you privately if anyone is interested?

Hi Gene,

You can raise the pH if you want to, but I wouldn't worry about anything other than chlorine for now, provided the pH is over 7.0. Your pool isn't over the "hump" yet, as evidenced by the CC reading--that's the chlorine in the water that's trying to kill off the Baq. As you keep your free chlorine levels up, the CC will gradually decrease as the chlorine burns it all off. When the CC is zero, the pool is clear, and you're not losing more than 1 ppm of chlorine when testing at sundown and again at sunup, THEN it's time to change out your sand.

Janet

Saturday, May 28, 2011

Janet,
Thank you for your welcomed response! However, I have tell a story on myself – the FC & CC levels I last reported were in ERROR! I mistakenly multiplied the # of drops by the 10 ml water sample vs the 0.2 ppm, so the real numbers were FC = 0.4 ppm and the CC = 0.2 ppm. However, I did not add any dosages last evening – which may be good in some respect (except for the time loss to rid the pool of Baquacil).

Test results this a.m.
Water temp = 67 deg.
FC = 0 ppm
CC = 1.0 ppm
pH = 7.4

With the pH now reading OK (and I’m not quite sure why?) and CC = 1 ppm, using Table A (from the Taylor’s Testing & Treatment Guide), I’ve added 3 gallons of chlorine bleach (6%). My guess is that this should raise TC ~ 9 ppm – and disregarding the negative effects of the sub light / UV rays today, this will reduce the 1 ppm CC without leaving a residual high level of FC. My plans are to retest in 6-8 hrs to see how my theory is working.

Additionally, I also appreciate your recommendations as to when to change the filter sand, etc.

As always – “thank you” for taking your time to read and answer my concerns!

Gene

Correction: I added 3 jugs at 1.42 gallon each for a total of 4.26 gallons of bleach (6%). Thank you for your understanding! -Gene

1) Sodium carbonate = soda ash = washing soda = "pH UP", etc.
Borax = sodium tetraborate penta-(or deca-)hydrate = 20 Mule Team borax = Proteam "Supreme" = BioGuard "Optimizer"

Use borax to raise your pH, adding 1 box at a time into your skimmer with the pump running and the skimmer basket in place.

2) You've completed your conversion when
+ your chlorine level is stable overnight; &
+ your TC is at least 5x your CC; &
+ your pool is clear, blue, and has been that way for at least 2 days.

3) Mail pictures to poolforum AT gmail DOT com; I'll upload them to the PoolForum Picasa album. (I'm tired of the vBulletin software de-linking all the attachments every time I upgrade.)


Hope this helps

Ben / PoolDoc

Saturday, May 28, 2011
Posted a correction with respect to the 3 4.26 gallons chlorine bleach I added…
Saturday ~7:00 p.m., May 28, 2011
Our pool water continues to clear, as we can readily see the bottom in the shallow end, with lots of debris on the bottom. However, since my last posting this a.m. – there are some surprises (to a newbie like me anyways)! The weather here today was sunny and warn, high in the upper 80s.

Pump pressure = 22 lbs (originally ~18 lbs)
FC = 0.2 ppm
CC = 0.8 ppm
pH = 7.2, and
TA = 40 ppm

Surprise! The 4.3 gal. of chlorine (bleach 6%) I added this a.m. has been totally consumed (based on the test results above) – but the pH did decrease 0.2 ppm (for which I haven’t a clue?

The good news is that the CC did drop from 1.0 ppm to 0.8 ppm today – maybe some progress after all. With the FC level still very low – even with the dosage this a.m., some good news is better then none!

So…I will add another 5.7 gal. of chlorine (bleach 6%) this p.m. and test once again in the a.m. tomorrow - Sunday.
Many “thanks” to everyone & and a Blessed Sunday to all!
Gene
PS – Should the dosages of chlorine (bleach 6%) be increased even though the CC levels are on the lower side?

What you are doing is working; stay the course. Backwash your filter as needed.

Sunday ~8:45 a.m., May 29, 2011 (Day 4)

Our pool looks about the same as last evening – bluish in color with lots of settled debris, and some signs of seeing the bottom in the deep end. However, the water sample does have a smell of chlorine.

Water temp = 70 deg.
FC = 8.4
CC = 1.4 (5 x 1.4 = 7.0 good!)
pH = 7.5
TA = 50

I’m not quite sure as to why the CC level has risen – other then an error in the testing process?

My best guess is that I need to add 4.3 gal. of chlorine (bleach 6%) this a.m. (in order to keep the FC level elevated throughout today), then test / adjust the chlorine levels later this evening in order to determine if the FC level remains stable overnight (or maintains a 5:1 ratio with CC).

Many “thanks” for all of the helpful recommendations I have received from the PoolForum, especially the latest from both Ben & Watermom,

Gene
PS – I will backflush this a.m. in hopes of reducing the pump pressure.

The chlorine you are smelling is the combined chlorine (CC). Go ahead and hit with bleach again this morning if you haven't already done so. An hour or so after you do so, test and see what kind of chlorine numbers you are achieving. Also, *if* there is any debris that can be scooped out, go ahead and remove it.

First – Many thanks for your response Watermom!
The following 2 entries comprise my latest post to the PoolForum.

Sunday ~1:45 p.m. , May 29, 2011 (Day 4)

I can actually see the deep end of the pool – with lots of dead matter (I assume) laying on the bottom all over the pool! Water tests were as follows:

FC = 0.2 – 0.5 ppm (way down from just 4 hrs ago!)
CC 1.5 ppm
pH = 7.2
Pump pressure ~ 19lbs (after back flushing)

I DID NOT add the 4.3 gal. of chlorine (bleach 6%) earlier today – our local WalMart was out of stock (and it was time for church)!

The FC is really a lot lower then just ~4 hrs ago! I tried both 10ml & 25ml water sample for the chlorine testing, with only a slight difference in the nos. (which I would guess is to be expected).

By not adding the additional chlorine (bleach 6%) earlier today the overall conversion process has probably once again been delayed – bummer! Plans are to now add 7.1 gal. of chlorine (bleach 6%) in order to make-up for some lost time & the low FC level!
Sunday ~ 7 p.m. , May 29, 2011 (Day 4)

Our pool water is clear with a bluish tint (liner, sky, etc.), and you can see the main drain in the deep end. However, there is a lot of foreign matter on the bottom of the pool – and the water it’s self has a chlorine and/or bleach smell.

Water temp = 75 deg.
FC = 7.5 ppm
CC = 1.5 ppm (5 x 1.5 = 7.5, OK)
pH = 7.2

Two things come to mind, 1) I really messed up by not adding the chlorine (bleach 6%) this morning (like I said I was going to do!), and 2) with the much warmer & sunnier days, I should have been adding stabilizer 90% / conditioner to the pool water – the sun / UV is just killing the FC! So…I’ll retest in the a.m. (Monday), and go from there! Have a Great Memorial Day - and enjoy your USA Freedom!

Gene
PS – Does anyone have a recommendation as to a ‘brand name to buy’ for the stabilizer 90% / conditioner (cyanaric or isocyanuric acid)? Which may only be available from pool store? I should have ordered this product when I ordered the test kit (date wise)!

If you can, I'd wait a bit to add the CYA. Maybe you don't work tomorrow since it is Memorial Day and will have time to test it and add bleach every couple of hours? The more often you do it, the faster you'll get the conversion over with. I would also suggest taking the FC a little higher. Since the high cl reading isn't going to stick around long, it isn't going to be a concern about hurting your liner. Go ahead and take it on up to about 10. A couple hours later when you test, take it back up to 10, repeat, repeat, repeat. We have had people in the past who have gotten through their conversion quickly because of how often they added bleach.

We usually suggest getting a pool cleared up before adding CYA. As far as what brand to buy, I doubt it matters. As long as you buy cyanuric (or isocyanuric) acid, it will be fine.

Watermom,
“Thank you” for your response with regard to the CC odor, as well as the time frame as to when I should be concerned with the CYA level. The settled debris is too fine to scoop out, maybe spring pollen or just plain old dirt from over the past winter / spring months? Additionally, I’m working on increasing / keeping the FC level much higher (~10) then it has been recently. Missing the chlorine dosage yesterday morning did not help matters!

As of this a.m. our pool looks cleaner, including the deep end, except for the all of the debris settled on the bottom. The water sample had a slight odor / smell, and the early test results are as follows:

Water temp = 74 deg.
FC = 5.0 ppm
CC = 1.5 ppm
pH = 7.2

With the FC dropping over night by 2.5 ppm, and the ratio <5 when compared to CC, I added another 4.34 gal. of chlorine (bleach 6%). My plans today are to re-check the chlorine levels ever 2-3 hrs.

“Thank you” (and everyone) for taking your time to read and to share your experience!
Gene

Hopefully with testing/shocking every couple of hours, you'll make a lot of progress today. Typically, I think, when people stay on top of their conversion with frequent monitoring and additions of bleach, most people finish the process in a week or less.

Take Heart! Conversion is a slow and messy with spectacularly ugly water along the way!

But keep up the valiant fight and you will prevail! POP (Pool Owner Persistence) and Chlorine will do it.

Carl

Watermom, Carl and all others,

Once again “many thanks” for your response & guidance – it has helped tremendously with the conversion process! The following provides a re-cap of yesterday’s, and the over night test results from this a.m. (I hope they are ‘not scrambled’ due to end-of-line, tabulation, or other space / character wrapping?).

Summary of our tests results, chlorine added, etc., completed on Monday May 30, 2011 (Day 5) through Tuesday May 31st – starting at 6:00 a.m. (5/30 6 a.m. results posted prior).

Reading 6:00 8:10 10:10 12:15 2:15 4:30 6:45 8:30 p.m. 3/31 6:00 a.m.
Water Temp 70 75 76 77 78 78 79 78 76
CF (ppm) 5.0 14.5 6.0 9.0 7.5 10.0 11.0 11.0 13.0
CC (ppm) 1.5 1.3 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75
pH 7.2 7.8 7.3 7.3 7.3 7.3 7.4+ 7.4 7.4+
Chlor. Add 7.1 - 4.3 4.3 2.9 2.9 - - -
(bleach 6%, in gallons)

A rather busy pool day overall – but the results look promising (at least to me!). In addition to the above tests, in between each sample I would typically brush the pool sides & bottom, clean the skimmer basket sock (which really helped to clean up a lot of the floating debris), and back flush / rinse the filter (2X) – dropping the pressure from ~ 25lbs down to ~19lbs.

The overall appearance and the water clarity has continued to improve, along with having the skimmer basket sock in place – clearly seeing the main floor drain. I also noticed that the pH tends to increase along with higher levels of FC level? And, it is pretty amazing just how much reaction the direct sun / UV rays has on the FC level – now I better realize why the Baquacil never had a fighting chance, especially with 5+ year old water! I’m so glad we are making the conversion to chlorine!

So…‘where are we in the conversion process’ – my guess is that it is either complete or very close? The fact that the CC never went completely to zero (0) is a little concerning – but may be in the manor as to ‘how full or level’ the R0870 dipper is for the prior FC testing? The CC = 0.75 ppm reading represents 1 drop of R0871 – and there is still a very, very slight amount of pink color in the sample. My guess is that I need to read the Taylor handbook as to how to measure CC (separate from FC) using a 25ml water sample!

As always many "many Thanks” for your time to read and to respond to my posting on the PoolForum!
Gene
PS - My near term plan is to keep the FC level elevated until I receive some feedback from the PoolForum.

To everyone,
The following may be easier to read - sorry for the repeat!

Reading 6:00 8:10 10:10 12:15 2:15 4:30 6:45 8:30 p.m. 3/31 6:00 a.m.
Water Temp 70 75 76 77 78 78 79 78 76
CF (ppm) 5.0 14.5 6.0 9.0 7.5 10.0 11.0 11.0 13.0
CC (ppm) 1.5 1.3 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75
pH 7.2 7.8 7.3 7.3 7.3 7.3 7.4+ 7.4 7.4+
Chlor. Added 7.1 - 4.3 4.3 2.9 2.9 - - -
(bleach 6%, in gallons)


Gene

before shocking
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X...1030962-ed.jpg

before shocking
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...1030963-ed.jpg

just after shocking
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V...1030964-ed.jpg

day 2
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...1030965-ed.jpg

day 3
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-s...1030966-ed.jpg

it looks like your FC held overnight, but with reading increasing concerned with if you added something after the 830pm reading?
if not, your FC should not have increased, but at 6am I can't count drops (I get up at 5, can talk, but no testing until after 1st POT of coffee!)
your CC is slowly going down, which is typical- keep the shock level of FC another day or two, until you lose <1ppm FC overnight, and CC is <.5
Then change out sand and you have successfully gotten rid of BaquaGoo!

Madwil,
Actually, I did not add any more chlorine (bleach 6%) after the 4:30 p.m. reading – my guess is two fold, 1) the overall total chlorine added for Monday was ~ 19 gal., and 2nd ) with the periodic brushing of the sides & bottom (filter passage, sock in skimmer basket, etc.) – it took an extra amount of time for the FC to rise! Beyond that thought I’m kind of struck as to why as to why it increased overnight?
Your recommendation to continue for another day (or 2) is in line with my thinking – although today I have not been as punctual as I was yesterday – a holiday! I’ll be very happy to finally get ride of the BaquaGoo!

Gene

Sounds like you are so close, but I would do another day or two. Better than stopping a little short of the final goal.

Wednesday, June 1st 6 a.m. - Day 7

Our pool continues to become clearer (by looks anyway), with still some debris laying on the bottom. Yesterday’s results were basically a repeat of Monday, except with testing spread out to every 3-4 hrs with a total of 14.34 gallons of chlorine (bleach 6%) added. Again the FC level did vary a little more during noon / afternoon hours and the CC level stayed basically the same (0.75 – 0.5 ppm). Overnight the FC level did drop by 1 ppm (maybe due to testing?) and the CC level remained unchanged (0.75 ppm) – which prompted a question as to why no change since Monday’s p.m. test? I contacted Taylor and asked them if there was a procedure to test the CC level independent of FC, using a 25 ml water sample (0.2ppm resolution)? The answer I received back was “Taylor does not currently offer a method for testing combined chlorine independent of the free chlorine result. To my knowledge, I am not familiar with another company that does.” - which seems a bit odd to me? Does anyone on the forum have any comments or concerns about their reply?

With all of the repeated testing, I need to immediately re-order the reagents for the chlorine testing! So plans are to do the dosages of chlorine (bleach 6%) - based on my records from the past 2 days, and only test 2-3 times / day, especially for 8 p.m. today & 6 a.m. tomorrow.

Watermom!
I do agree with your recommendation, another day to see if the CC will ever go to lower? Thank you for your response & have a great June 1st!

Gene

I think, with regards to testing CC, the issue is FC causes errors in CC reading; so you have to remove the FC first, without overdoing it, before you can test CC.
I think, at your current readings, you're safe to change out sand whenever you want- but maintain shock levels of FC until your CC is <.5.

Madwil,
Thank you for your comments - they are always helpful!
When you say, “remove FC first” I assume you mean by adding the R0781 drops until the water sample is colorless, which is what I have been doing. However, if there is a short time delay (making notes, etc.) until the 5 drops of R-0003 are added – the water sample will usually take-on a pinkish color? So…would you just add the R-0003 or go back and add some additional drops of R-0781? Would you happen to know of a better method of testing the CC at the lower end?
Gene

if the color comes back after the delay, I think that's the reagent beginning to react with CC- the reason why OTO only gives TC...
You do not have to go back and add addtional 0781- just continue the test as you have been doing. I do not know of any better way- Chemgeek or Waste may...

That IS confusing. What you do is test the water sample for FC using 0870 powder and 0871 drops. Then TO THAT SAME SAMPLE add the R-0003, 5 drops. The water should turn clear if there's no CC, pink or red if there's some CC. Now use the 0871 drops AGAIN until the water goes clear to measure CC.

That's it!

Carl

Madwil & Carl,
I follow the Taylor instructions per the letter – and do not repeat any of the previous steps. I guess an answer would be to use a 25ml water sample to begin with, which in turn would provide a 0.2ppm / drop of R0871 when testing for ‘lower levels’ (<= 0.5ppm) of CC. However, I will have to wait on my order of reagents (R0871 in particular) to try this method. I’m sorry if my previous posting was not real clear? Thank you and have a great day!
Gene

sorry if I was confusing- yes, you have to use the 25ml sample for the FC test, to get .2ppm results on CC (after completing the FC test)
I think that for most people, getting .2ppm results is probably not necessary- curiosity maybe, or chemgeek when experimenting for science...
But for me, <.5 is good enough on the CC, and my FC stays above 5 normally so not going to use that many drops to get it to .2 accuracy!

Madwil,
I agree, and for a newbie like myself – not seeing any additional decrease in the CC reading, and not real sure just how low it should eventually read, I was simply looking for a better way to test the CC. In my opinion, the 10 hr / overnight numbers are the most telling for both the FC (loosing <= 1ppm) and the CC at <= 0.5.

Gene
PS – I put the Polaris into the pool to help the skimmer sock clean-up a lot of the very fine debris – and together they are doing a great job! The pool water continues to clear very nicely (look wise). Many “thanks” for all your help!

Thursday, June 2nd 6:45 a.m. (Day 8)
Throughout the day on Wednesday the FC level was keep elevated by adding multiple dosages of chlorine (bleach 6%) based on the records from the prior 2 days – with only 1 water test was completed (8:30 p.m.).

The pool looks crystal clear Thursday a.m., with only a slight amount of noticeable debris on the bottom – mostly in the shallow end? The Polaris has managed to pickup most of the courser waste material – and the skimmer sock continues to clean up the usually Baquacil gook! Test results as of today;

WT = 81 deg.
FC = 20 (~ same as 8:30 p.m. on Wednesday)
CC = 0.5ppm
pH = 7.6
Pump Pressure = 26lbs

Based on the above test numbers, and primarily with the CC <= 0.5 ppm, I decided to start the process of changing out the filter sand today – preceded by brushing, raising the water level, vacuuming, and taking a few photos as well.

Many “Thank You” to all of you on the PoolForum who have taken your time to respond to my posting – your comments, advice, and guidance is always appreciated,
Gene

You are welcome! Glad we could help. You're going to be really glad you converted.

Thursday, June 2nd 6:30 p.m.

Watermom - you are "very welcomed"!

Changing the sand within the filter went OK, what a mess!, and it took longer then thought it would. Backwashed & rinsed, restated circulation at 4:30 p.m. – with some visible sand later in the pool? - not sure why?

The following readings were taken at 6:30 p.m. (2 hrs after re-starting pump)
WT = 83 deg.
FC = 0.5 ppm (really low based on the reading this a.m.?)
CC <= 0.5 ppm
pH = 7.1
TA = 45
CH = did not test
CYA = did not test

With the pH at borderline low, I will add the following;
pH - 7:30 p.m., add 1 lb of soda ash (Borax)
TA – 9:00 p.m., add 2 lbs of baking soda (A&H)
FC – 10:30 p.m., add 1.42 gal of chlorine (bleach 6%)

Plans for early a.m. on Friday include 1) vacuum sand from bottom of pool, 2) complete a comprehensive water test, and 3) almost certainly add 1-2 lbs of stabilizer / conditioner (via sock in strainer).

Any and all comments with regard to correct steps to balance our pool, now that the BaquaGoo is finally gone, would greatly appreciated and “Thank you”
Gene

Gene,
Since this original thread is in the Baquagoop forum and you have finished your conversion, I'm going to suggest that you copy and paste your most recent post and start a new thread in a more appropriate forum. This thread is really long and it will just make it easier for all involved. Besides, there are some people who never look at the threads in the baq. forum so you'll get more viewings in a different section than you will in this one. After I see that you have, I'll delete this last post and lock this thread so people don't start responding to it here.

Thanks.

Please do not add any further posts to this thread. Gene is going to start a new thread in a different section of the forum. Thanks. Watermom

pictures posted of a relatively easy conversion.

EDIT by Watermom: The pics Ben added today are in post #24.