Just Another Owner of a Green Abyss

Howdy all! It looks like I've found the hands-down best pool forum on the Web. I've already started reading threads and learning tons, but I thought I'd say hello and solicit some help.

I'm in the process of getting a complete kit to test water so that I can post numbers. Hopefully I'll have that tonight.

The pool was not winterized last year and has lots of plant debris on the bottom (leaves, etc.) if only you could see down there. Water is deep dark green and cloudy right now.

Filter is running and DE just added yesterday, but it is making a hissing sound, so I don't know what's up with that.

Here are the specs... It's all I have to go on. I don't have gallon #s but maybe we can figure it out from these numbers...

Size: 15x35
Area: 443
Depth: 6" (turtle shelf) x 8'
Shape: Mediterranean (haha, it's more of what I'd call an irregular kidney)
Pump: 2HP PAC FAB (whatever that means)
Filter: FNS 48 D.E.
2 skimmers, 6 returns
white plaster
Special Equipment: Catalyst, Swim Out, Turtle Shelf

I did throw about 5.5 gallons of bleach in there yesterday, before I read about the levels I needed to check. There are also about 5-6 tabs in the Chlorinator.

Any advice great appreciated! I am here to learn. :)

Hi, and welcome!!

I'm sure that the equipment pros on this forum will chime in shortly and help you figure the gallonage and how well your pump and filter are matched.

In the meantime, the best kit you can get is a DPD-FAS kit, we recommend the Taylor K2006 that can be found online at the link in my sig line. Unfortunately, I don't think you can get a DPD-FAS kit anywhere except online, but this place seems to be the cheapest so far. While you're waiting for your kit to arrive, get a leaf net and pole and scoop out as much of the stuff on the bottom as you can--it will speed up the clearing process if your chlorine can be working on the water and not on the "stuff" in the bottom of the pool. You can also get a water sample and take it to a local pool store to have a set of tests run on it, just to get a ballpark baseline so you can make a shopping list. DO NOT BUY ANY OF THE STUFF THE POOL STORE TELLS YOU THAT YOU NEED!!! Just tell them you have it already, or whatever, and come back and post your results here. We'll be happy to help you get it underway from there.

Janet

Thank you! I will definitely check out the kit... I'd love to help the forum out a little bit. This weekend I am going to try to get out as much debris as I can and will hopefully have the test numbers.

In the meantime, I wonder if I should post a separate thread for these generic questions..

1) Regarding vacuuming... The pool came with one of those little guys that scours the bottom, but to do real vacuuming, don't I need to use a traditional pool vacuum that plugs into the skimmer? Those are the kind I am familiar with from when I was a kid. Also, are there ever times where what is on the bottom is so bad that you need some kind of separate standalone vac from a pool service company to come out? That's what someone told me...

2) I have no idea how to tell if my filter and pump are running properly. I don't know what the pressure gauge should say, etc. Is there a sticky note for this?

3) The timer/switch on my pump is broken... i.e. when I put the timer in the "off" position, it doesn't switch off. Is this something I can replace myself?

Thanks so much in advance! BTW, the 5.5 gallons of bleach I poured in has had zero effect... :)

"Thanks so much in advance! BTW, the 5.5 gallons of bleach I poured in has had zero effect.."

Wrong! It HAS had an effect, even if the effect is burning up some stuff that would otherwise have used up the NEXT dose.

Oxidizing pool debris is like burning leaves: if you burn up a wheelbarrow load, you've burned those up, regardless of whether that was the only load, or just the first of ten!.

You should be adding 5 - 6 gallons EVERY evening, and testing with OTO an hour after, and again in the morning. Do this till your chlorine level in the AM is unchanged from the evening before.

Do not test your pH when the chlorine is above 5 (so, test in the PM before you add chlorine) . If your pH is below 7.0 or above 8.0, you'll need to adjust that, too.

Leave EVERYTHING else alone chemically, till you have stable overnight chlorine readings.

Do NOT add pool store goop: clarifiers, enzymes, metal magnets, algaecides, flocculants, sequestrants, phosphate removers or Super Duper Pool Gooper Upper. They will only complicate things and waste your money.

Do NOT try to 'balance' your pool water (except to adjust your pH, per above -- use borax for UP & muriatic acid for DOWN), or add stabilizer till you have stable overnight chlorine levels.

I'm out the door, so I can't get into checking pumps and filters right now.

Ben

the easy answer about pumps, is if the pump runs and water flows, the pump is good; if not, then valves/leaks/clogs have to be found and fixed
Filter, there is no easy answer except to run it and see if the water starts to clear- it may take awhile, so no clearing doesn't mean filter bad immediately.
If you're familiar with electricity, replacing the timer is easy.
Start with what Ben said- add bleach and circulate the water (run the pump)... and maintain pH between 7 and 8...
We'll work on the other issues as you get that first priority sorted out!

Hey guys!

I finally got the kit, so here are the results. Reading taken just a few minutes ago (11am Central Time), no bleach added since last week... Weds or Thurs I think.

Chlorine: 0.5 ppm / 1 ppm Bromine
Total Chlorine: 1 ppm

pH 8.2+ - took 6 drops on the Acid Demand test

Alkalinity - 160 ppm

Calcium Hardness - I stopped counting after adding 40 drops so I guess it's really high

CYA: Must be close to zero as the vial was crystal clear when filled

So I am going to go back and re-read what I am supposed to do based on these numbers... Any help/advice really appreciated!

Hi Mark;

#1 - Buy some stabilzer (cyanuric acid), then clean your filter and add 3# per 10,000 gallons of pool water, directly to your skimmer. Leave the strainer basket in place, and make sure your pump is running 24/7. It will take 3+ days to dissolve, so try to avoid having to clean the filter during that period.

#2 - Buy some muriatic acid, and add about 1 quart per 10,000 gallons. Wear gloves & glasses, and hold the acid close to the water when you pour. Avoid the fumes. Don't try to get it just right -- add some, and test the next day, and add more as needed. Stop when your pH is about 7.2.

Dose nightly with 1 gallon of bleach per 10,000 gallons, till you get stabilizer in the pool. Be VERY careful not to let any of the chemicals (bleach, cyanuric acid, muriatic acid) touch each other directly.

Retest after you get these things done, and post results.

Ben

Sounds good, Ben... However, could you help me estimate how many gallons I have based on the specs I posted in the first post? I tried looking up formulas online but got conflicting results... Thanks!

I would guess about 23k gallons- assuming the turtle shelf is just a shelf, and the majority of the pool is between 4 and 8 foot deep... I would probably start with doses for 20k, and if they fall a little short you can add more later... especially CYA, you don't want to overdo it; on the bleach, slightly overdoing it won't hurt!

Thanks madwil! I will get the acids tonight and apply a good amount of P.O.P.

At what point do you decide it's best to drain/refill? We live in a very dry area with low water table so it's tempting to start over... I'd probably drain 1/2 or 2/3...

Also... I'm guessing this would do the trick for the stabilizer?

http://www.lesliespool.com/Home/Pool...ers/12302.html

Thanks!

Thanks for all the help, but I am throwing in the towel. Going to do the drain/power wash/refill this week. Thanks again y'all!