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Hello all, glad to be back.
I've watched and read several video's (youtube) that state there is no need to use antifreeze. Just blow the lines and cap the outlet. If no bubbles come out, you have a tight seal and there is no need to add the antifreeze. Your thoughts? Also, is Polyquat the only chemical I need to buy? I have bleach, chlorine, shock and Borax. Any recommendations where to buy the Polyquat? Thanks very much.
That is true. No need for antifreeze as long as water has been blown out and there is room for ice expansion for whatever is left in the pipes. By this I mean low spots in the piping where water could settle. Pipes break because ice has no where to go. If you have a low spot where remaining water can settle and fill the pipe then there may be a problem. Usually on returns this isn't a problem but could be with skimmers where the suction pipe is deep. I just blow my returns and cap them and I try and suck all the water out of the skimmer pipe but fill that line with AF anyhow since my skimmer line is still above the frost line. I block my skimmer opening with a foam block because I don't drop my water level that much. Then use a shop-vac to suck water out of the skimmer box and line. Works better than blowing. Then plug with a gizmo and pour AF into the pump strainer basket and fill the line. I then pack the skimmer box with foam chunks because it will fill with water and freeze. I use a closed cell foam, same stuff pool noodles and some kinds of packing foam. Won't shred like styrofoam and won't saturate with water.
As for Polyquat? Don't use it so can't advise.
Hope this helps.
Al
Thanks, I will probably use the antifreeze anyway. Last year, I didn't use the polyquat and did have a problem with algae when I opened. I didn't check the cl levels after the close like other do. I going to pump up the chlorine and check monthly. Does anyone feel strongly one way or another.
I try and close as late as I can and open as early as possible. By that I mean keeping the circulation going. I do jack up the chlorine and it's gone in the spring but usually don't have an algae problem. Spring of 2009 I was away for a bit and didn't have the pump hooked up and it did get away from me. Darkest pea green crud I ever saw. I just waited too late. Was cleared up in a few days.
Al
Here's how I do it: I raise my FC up to shock level, then add 1 full quart of Polyquat (I have 20k gal). I then wait 48 hours for the FC to drop, and then add more chlorine to get it back to the shock level, then close.
Closing for me means waiting for the water to drop to 60 degrees, then dropping the water level below all the returns and the skimmer, then plugging them. I then plug the low drain. Since I have an AG and the plumbing is exposed and on quick-releases, I remove it all, drain it, and store it in the basement.
But I have my solar panels that form the deck. I blow them out, removing key bridging hoses so that each section (each side and each end of the pool) can be blown out. This takes hours as the connections all can trap water, which is my biggest fear. Filling them with anti freeze would be SUCH a waste of time and effort that it would be easier to disconnect each bridge, but I'd rather not do that either.
If I start opening in mid-April and get the pool open by the beginning of May, I never have a spring algae problem. If I have to wait and don't get it open until late May (as I did this season) I had a small algae problem that was cleared up in 24 hours by hammering it with liquid chlorine, technically "too much" as it could have bleached the liner, but my liner is old and ugly anyway!
Sorry for the dumb question but, what is "shock level"? Also, you didn't mention blowing out the other lines, do you? Why do you wait until 60 degrees? ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by CarlD
Shock level is the level of chlorine required to kill off any existing algae bloom, and is often used to prevent algae growth over the winter. How high the chlorine needs to be raised to accomplish "shock level" depends on your CYA. See guideline here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=365
Also, the colder the water, the the slower the algae will grow, so he's waiting until it's cold to shock it that one last time before he closes. Polyquat is also a great algae preventer, so he's protecting his pool on three different levels when closing for the winter.
As for blowing out the lines, well, that's definitely a question I can't help you with, because my pool never closes!! :cool:
Janet
I don't like this time of year. Don't like talking about closing my pool for the season. :(:(
Janet gave you all the answers except one.
ALL of my main plumbing from the drains to the pump, to the filter, to the returns is plumbed with removable PVC pipe, some hard, some TigerFlex. By plugging all the drains and returns I can remove ALL the plumbing, drain it, and store in my basement. I only have to worry about blowing out my solar panels, and the bridge hosing between them.
(Each solar panel is 2'x4' and I have 30 of them surrounding a 16'x40' pool. They are connected to each other by 18" long bridge hoses. 15 panels feed one warm-water return and the other 15 feed another, so I can turn them on depending on which group is in the sun.)
We're nowhere close!! Air temps back up to the 97-99 range, no rain, pool temp back up to almost 90 today, having a swim party this weekend for my oldest's birthday!! (She can't swim with a cast, but she can hang out with her friends in the lounge chairs).........Quote:
Originally Posted by Watermom
Janet
We're still open here for a bit longer, too. Temps in the upper 80s and 90s. But, it won't be too long .................
At 11:00 PM tonight it is 40 on my deck.
Al