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I just purchase a Hayward CL200 Automatic Chlorine Feeder. I'm going to
install it on 1 1/2 inch return line. After looking inside of the CL200, it looks
like the hole is much smaller than the inlet and outlet. Will this cause outlet
pressure going to pool to decrease? I don't need to reduce pressure if so
my navigator will not vacuum the pool like it should.
Ltpowel
That tiny hole is the main reason why -- when I used to recommend tri-chlor feeders -- I recommended the Rainbow 320 inline. I'm much less enthusiastic about tri-chlor feeders now -- floaters work well, and are safer, unless you have small children who might 'mess' with them.
But, one thing that hasn't changed is that the Hayward feeders suck! They restrict pool flow horrendously, and the control valve doesn't. The proper place to 'install' those feeders, is in your garbage can.
I've never really understood why so many manufacturers of quality products will leave known pieces of garbage in their product lines. Hayward, Pentair, Sta-Rite (especially Sta-Rite) offer a mix of excellent products with some real turkeys which have well-known and well-understood problems. It doesn't make sense to me, but apparently it does to them.
Ben
"PoolDoc"
Yes, I agree. I have one, but don't use it anymore. The control knob did not work properly and let in TOO much chlorine. This feeder is the primary reason my CYA is where it is today.....100ppm, and I haven't used it since last June when I switched to bleach.Quote:
Originally Posted by PoolDoc
CaryB
I cannot imagine why people still use the auto-chlorinators with pucks.
When you need pucks, floaters are dirt cheap--an adjustable one is about $10.
I can think of a few reasons off the top of my head:Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlD
- You already have in-lin chlorinator and would rather spend $10 on the nectar of the gods (brown liquor) than on a floater.
- You have small children are are worried about the potential safety problems that might arise when those small children and a floater get together.
- You are more concerned with asthetics than most and don't like the fashion statement a floater makes.
- You are a new pool owner who didn't know about floaters when the pool was built and you went with the builder's recommendation. This one brings us back to the first case, especially the brown liquor part as you probably need it after the bad pool building experience you just survived.
- The fact that the chlorine is distributed in the water more quickly and evenly with an in-lin chlorinator as opposed to a passive floater appeals to your anal retentiveness.
ROFLMA!Quote:
Originally Posted by KurtV
Too true, and too funny!
Ben
I'm returing the Hayward CL200 Automatic Chlorine Feeder tomorrow and
will use a floater. We have switch from Baquacil to chlorine because of
so much problems and the cost so we are learning from this poolforum
the do's and don'ts.
Thanks, LTPOWEL
I actually think the floater is quite active bobbing around when there are people in the pool. This aditional motion causes more chlorine to be added to the pool. I do agree they are an eye sore.
OK, you got me with that one--but I've yet to find a good rum that costs that little...:mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by KurtV
You COULD pull the floater out when the kids get in it.:rolleyes:Quote:
- You have small children are are worried about the potential safety problems that might arise when those small children and a floater get together.
Well, you'll just need to go to Escada or Dior and get a designer floater so your friends will admire your good taste!:cool:Quote:
- You are more concerned with asthetics than most and don't like the fashion statement a floater makes.
That's a biggie. Builders also like to recommend cartridge filters--most owners end up hating them. Some also like to set folks up with Bacquacil without asking them or giving them the facts. Still, they aren't that hard to install or remove in these days of PVC piping and glued-on fittings.Quote:
- You are a new pool owner who didn't know about floaters when the pool was built and you went with the builder's recommendation. This one brings us back to the first case, especially the brown liquor part as you probably need it after the bad pool building experience you just survived.
Oh, there's PLENTY of ways floaters can appeal to that--whenever I use one it always seems to end up blocking off the skimmer...Good flow that way...but lousy skimming!:eek:Quote:
- The fact that the chlorine is distributed in the water more quickly and evenly with an in-lin chlorinator as opposed to a passive floater appeals to your anal retentiveness.
Thanks for the grins!
Cheers, salud, etc..:)Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlD
I KNOW you can get cheap rum down there--but the GOOD rum is STILL expensive. The best comes from Martinique and is made like fine cognac :p , or the best single-malt scotch (which makes me greener than a 100 proof algae bloom :( :D ). Unfortunately, it ain't cheap, even on Martinique.
Remember: Don't Drink and Dive!
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlD
Carl,
I bought a few bottles of top shelf Barbancourt in Port au Prince for less than $10 per about a year ago. Don't get any better or cheaper than that.:)
I also still have a few bottles of the three star Ron del Barrilito (Puerto Rico) that I bought a few years ago in Roosevelt Roads, PR for less than $5.00 a bottle.:D
You've made me thirsty. I think I'll break out the Barbancourt and stick my feet in the pool.
Kurt:
Barbancourt is OK--not crazy about it. 3 Star Barrilito is, to my taste, a lot better. Better rums (IMHO) that are fairly easy to get are:
Ron de Matusalem (the extra special reserve) and
St. James Hors d'Age.
It's tougher but you can get St. James 1979 and 1982 vintages by special order. Both will make you toss all the others except the Matusalem. But they are expensive.
But even the St. James vintages aren't the best....:D
But like anything, rum is a personal taste. Just because I think something is the best doesn't make it so. I can present arguments why I think chlorine is better than bromine or bacquacil, or why bleach is better than tri-chlor tablets--I have logical reasons, but the ONLY reason I can say I like St. James 1979 better than Barbancourt is I think it tastes better. And that's pure personal opinion.
As interesting as the rum threads are...can I ask a few questions about the CL200. I have one - doesn't seem to restrict any flow, but I trust what is said on this forum so could someone lay out the problems with using this product? One problem I've had in the past is that my heater had to be replaced after only 4 years and I'm wondering if it had anything to do with this chlorine feeder. The inside of the heater was a rusted out mess.
I'm in the process of keeping the chlorine levels very high to get rid of leaf stains at the bottom of the pool. I thought leaving the chlorine feeder completely open and full of pucks would help this problem? Maybe I'm wrong and causing more harm than good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksturge
What is your stabilizer level? The biggest problem with using trichlor or dichlor is that it causes your stabilizer (CYA) to constantly rise and that requires you run the pool and shock the pool at higher FC levels. The reasons are somewhat technical but you might want to check out this thread for some more information on what levels to run your pool at.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=365
Most of the folks on this forum add CYA manually to a level of about 30-50 ppm and then run their FC and shock levels according to the chart in the above thread by using bleach ( which is non stabilized chlorine, sodium hypochlorite). This is probably the easiest and most economical way to chlorinate your pool.
Take some time and read through the stickies on the forum and read everything on the sister website www.poolsolutions.com and you will soon understand the BBB method of pool care (Bleach, Borax, and Baking Soda)
If you have any questions just start a thread in the appropriate heading and you will get all the advice you will need.
If you haven't got one already DO get yourself a good drop based test kit that will measure FC, TC, pH, ALK, CAL, and CYA. Do not use test strips...they just don't have the accuracy for maintaining a pool.
Hope this is helpful
Thanks - I've ordered Ben's test kit. When it comes I'll be able to be more accurate. The feeder is after the heater so maybe that wasn't the problem.