Tired of bad advice from pool company

Hello - I wish I would have found you guys years ago! I'm once again very dissatisfied with advice I'm getting at my local pool store - pretty certain I'm not going back again. I thought I had a better handle on the chemicals!
This is a water analysis report I got today:

Free Available Chlorine - 7 (high) Shocked 2 days ago, stabilized chlorine
Calcium Hardness - 190 (ok)
Cyanuric Acid - 100 (high)
Total Alkalinity - 100 (ok)
pH - 7.6 (ok)
Total Dissolved Solids - 600 (ok)
Phosphates - 200 (high)

So CYA and phosphates are high. I have an in-ground gunite, 28K gallons, some algae growth. And yes, I'm also using 3" stabilized tabs in 2 floaters. After some education today I see it's a mistake to use them AND stabilized granules for shock.
The same shop who sold me both stabilized products now tell me I need to drain the entire pool and refill to get rid of the CYA. Since they could not tell me how "much" over 100 it was, and that some writers say don't worry about a high CYA, others saying yes I need to drain and refill - I'm in chemical confusion again.
My specific questions are in regards to this CYA problem and what my options really are. And, also if this is a good time to switch to bleach chlorination, i.e. the BBB program. I'm getting sick and tired of the expense and see-saw I've been riding with these chemicals.
Anyone's help is VERY appreciated.
keith

Hi Keith;

I'll work down a list:

• don't say, "I won't go back to my pool dealer". You'll need them for some things. It's just that advice may not be one of them!
• Don't worry about high phosphates or CYA yet.
• Don't use any more 'special' chemicals.
• Use the "Best Guess Chlorine Chart". (Link below)
• Do do a dilution test for CYA to get an idea how high it is. (Method below)
• Do switch to a non-stabilized shock for now -- bleach or cal hypo.
• Since you've got algae, do add a 10 ppm dose this evening -- about 5 gallons of 6% bleach.

Regarding your dealer, he/she/it is probably doing what they were taught. They may well believe what they've told you.

Regarding phosphates, don't tough that yet. It *might* be worth dealing with them, but it's messy and you should understand what you are getting into.

Regarding testing, we need to know how you are doing it, so we know whether to trust your results or not. If you don't have one, and don't drain and refill, you WILL need a DPD-FAS test kit (links below). Getting one is a good idea, regardless.

PoolDoc

Links:
best-guess-swimming-pool-chlorine-chart.html
the-BBB-method-of-swimming-pool-care.html
how-to-test-your-pool-without-a-good-testkit.html

Thank you very much - I'll get started researching the links and doing homework today.

Up to now I've been getting testing done at the pool shop, a national retailer. It's always someone different and I've seen them make occasional mistakes before both with my own samples and other people's while I wait in line. Do I trust their analysis? I haven't a clue. Until I follow your advice and get my own testing gear I've got nothing to compare it with.

I've removed the 2 floaters with the 3" tabs. Let me know if that's not necessary.

I'll post with my findings - thanks again!
keith

btw -
links #2 and #4 in your list don't work.

Sorry about that -- fixed #2. #4 doesn't work because I haven't written it yet. This morning has been crazy, and my afternoon is full, and my Scout troop meets tonight . . . so it will probably be tomorrow before I can get it done. I'll post a placemark page, however.

You don't have to take out your floaters -- the safest place for wet trichlor tabs is in the pool anyhow -- just hold off on adding new ones or using dichlor shock till we've actually found what your CYA level is.

Ben

UPDATE: links fixed now.

Keith,
Thanks for the trouble of reposting. Sorry about the accidental deletion. I had replied to your other thread a few minutes ago and then found that Ben had answered you here, so I went back and deleted the other thread. Hope you'll find the Pool Forum to be very helpful to you and also just a fun place to hang out!

I'm soooo glad to have found you guys. You don't know what a relief it is to find some reliable advice and help with my chem-confusion! It's already been helpful and I just sent in my first post yesterday. Looking forward to a long and rewarding relationship! Hope at some point I can pay it forward.
keith

Ben - I bought a Taylor DPD-FAS kit. My CYA is above 100. Extrapolating it looks like 150-175. Probably closer to 175.

Keith,

You can use the "how to test if . . ." link to get an explanation of how you can 'extend' your CYA test to cover the higher range.

Then, use the "Best Guess" page to find the right chlorine range . . . and you should be good to go.

Of course, you'll need to switch to either calcium hypochlorite or bleach (sodium hypochlorite) as your primary source of chlorine.

You can give away, or seal up, your stabilized chlorine. You might want to hang on to it long enough to see how fast your CYA drops (no need to test more than 2x per month). If it looks like it will take more than a year to get below 100ppm, you'd better give it away. Old chlorine tabs and powder tends to give off a variety of noxious fumes that aren't good for you and are TERRIBLE for wiring in your garage or storage shed.

Ben

So help me understand what you're saying, - even with a 150+ CYA level, do I need to drain/refill? And you suggest to "see how fast your CYA drops". I thought the CYA never drops. So I remain in that confused state I started in. What is the resolution to the CYA levels? Leave it as it is and monitor FC levels and forget about it? Drain? Not drain?