So do I shock or not? Not sure what my next step is, if there's a next step at all.
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So do I shock or not? Not sure what my next step is, if there's a next step at all.
If your pool is clear, the CC is at or very near zero, and you're not loosing FC at a rate that is more than what you normally would per day, then you don't need to shock.
Testing yourself is the best way to be sure. Check out the Taylor K2006 Videos on YouTube in this thread;
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...eos-on-YouTube
Good luck :)
SHOCKED!
Came home today and pool water was cloudy with a green tint to it so I added 5.531 quarts of bleach that should raise me to just over 22 ppm. Not sure what's going on as I was crystal clear two days ago. We have had a couple of storms roll through, nothing major, a little rain but lots of dust. Property behind me is about 4 acres of desert so when a wind storm comes up it blows dust everywhere.
Understand I need to keep shock level up until my CC is at zero and I'm losing no more than 1 ppm chlorine per evening right. What's odd is this is where I was, or where I thought I was. Figured I'd shock just to be safe.
So after shocking how long should one wait until they get in the pool? Thanks in advance.
Please post a full set of test results from your K-2006 test kit. Also, how long and at what time of day / night are you running the pump and SWG?
How many days had it been since you tested and how many days since you had added chlorine before this or are you relying solely on your SWCG now?
I had to leave town unexpectedly so I've been unable to test. Had wife to a test with my HTH 6 way (Taylor is too confusing for her) and had her test Ch and pH and I had her send me a picture of the test. Ch was off the chart, used the link Watermom provided and it is in the 20 - 25 range. pH is about 8 which surprises me as I had it down around 7.5 I belive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Splash
Pump runs from 8:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m. and SWG from about 8:30 p.m. - 11:30 p.m. SWG is not currently running. Wife reports water is looking less green, however, I have a lot of dust/dirt on the bottom so we're going to try and get step son out there to vac. once the storms are done rolling through, should be Tues.
I believe it had been one day since I tested, results posted on prior page. Prior to this I'd been adding about 1 cup of chlorine per day along with running SWG for 3 hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Watermom
Lastly we're getting some rain here in Vegas, I haven't had this pool through rain yet. Anything special one needs to do?
I don't own an Index pool so I can only go by what I've read. Someone else can / should confirm. That said, I've read the OEM filters are barely adequate for regular use. I would suspect you need to run it for a lot longer than just 4 hours. You said, "Ch was off the chart". Do you mean FC? Calcium hardness (Ch) isn't an issue on a vinyl pool unless it is "off the charts". That would be about 10x more than 20-25. Please clarify your post.
The kit she used was a HTH 6 way and I believe the chlorine test is TA. I ordered the better re-usable filters and they arrived today, step son installed this morning so we're off the cheap filters. I'll up the run time. Anyone have a suggestion on what to up it to? I'm currently running at what the manual suggests, 4 hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Splash
Ok, if I understand, your CYA is around 80, and your chlorine is 20? If that's true then the pH test is invalid unless you diluted (50/50) the pool water with DISTILLED water. Chlorine levels above 5ppm (or 10 with the Taylor kit) cause invalid results. If you have cloudy water and the Intex cartridge filter, you need to run the pump 24/7 and you still may be a week or two from clear water. [EDIT] The manual recommendations are for "IDEAL" conditions, and that is not where it seems you are. [END EDIT] I'd turn the SWCG off and use bleach to chlorinate TO SHOCK LEVEL (20 to 25ppm for you) until these 3 things are true,
1. There is less than 1ppm FREE chlorine loss over night
2. There is less than .5ppm COMBINED chlorine at sunrise
3. There is no sign of live algae
Doing this will help extend the life of the SWCG, and needs to be done if the SWCG is on or off. It is lots easier to tell what's going on without the SWCG because it adds an indefinite amount of chlorine.
With your CYA level, you're looking at a MINIMUM free chlorine level of 8ppm. Maybe shoot for starting with 12ppm and see if that is still 8 at sundown.
That being said, IF there is no sign of LIVE algae, and you can see the bottom of the pool, and your chlorine level is between 8 and 16, it is safe to swim. Wear old suits. Stirring up the water will help get the dead algae to the filter. Be sure to read
http://pool9.net/cartridge-clean/
ALSO, I'm pretty sure that all Intex SWCGs have a copper ionizer. Copper kills algae fairly well, bacteria - not so much. Copper can stain pools and turn light hair green (it's not chlorine that does that). If you keep enough chlorine to kill the bacteria, that's usually enough to kill algae. You might want to see if you can SAFELY disconnect the copper ionizer.
Good luck!
Pappy
Thought I'd update.
Came home from my business trip and pool looked beautiful, crystal clear. FC was about 8 and less than .5 ppm Combined. Combined has consistently hovered around .5. Perfect right . . . not quite.
I'm running my pump 6 hours a night and SWG 4 hours and my FC still drops down as low as 2ppm. I'm starting to think there's an issue with my SWG and it cannot keep-up with the chlorine loss. I'm not losing a lot of chlorine, probably less than 1ppm each night so I'm adding bleach about every three days, however, I was hoping with my SWG I'd be at the point of it maintaining. Don't mind adding bleach but what good is the SWG then . . .
Other than the pool being a bit dirty from storms this past week numbers and water look awesome! Thanks again to everyone who helped this newbie out. Will be much easier when we get our in-ground in now.