Re: Which SaltWater Chlorinator
I have an Aqualogic PS-8 and about 3 years in got a "No Cell Power" error. After much talking with others, it is apparent that the main board is bad. Cost to fix? $500-600. This doesn't include a new salt cell, just the main PCB.
My question to Sean and others is: Since I already have the Aqua logic controller, how would I hook up a Autopilot (or other) system into this? The nice thing about the Aqualogic is that I just plug the cell in. The bad thing is one board controls everything, so if one things goes wrong, teh whole board has to be replaced.
A local pool service guy is recommending switching over to the jandy Aquapure salt system (for $1300 plus install -no thanks), got me thinking of other alternative before i fix my Aqualogic.
All functions other than salt are working fine
Re: Which SaltWater Chlorinator
Answering just for the Pool Pilot, you do not want to interface the unit to communicate through the electronic control system as you will lose some of the key features of the Pool Pilot Digital. Specifically, Automatic Temperature Compensation and Salt amount display. What this means to you is that you will need to be as diligent in adjusting the Purifier % setting when temperatures change (the Pool Pilot does this for you).
The Pool Pilot too, will have to be mounted as a separate system, as you mentioned the Intellichlor would need to be.
This would be the same for anyone elses system, unless you go back with the replacment components from Goldline.
Re: Which SaltWater Chlorinator
So the PoolPilot would be a standalone system. I get that, but how would I get it to work? Right now, everything (Pump, salt, etc.) is controlled by the Aqualogic. If I went with a secondary, third party, salt system, how does salt system know when the pump is running etc.?
Re: Which SaltWater Chlorinator
You would connect the Pool Pilot to the same relay that controls the filter pump. Whenever it gets energized, the Pool Pilot would come on also.
From there, you set the Purifier Output % to maintain the chlorine level you desire.
Test your chlorine, set the % to 50% (as a starting point). Let it run a few days and retest your chlorine level. Readjust the % higher or lower, depending on your test result. Let it run a few days again and retest and readjust as needed.
Once you're maintaining the your chlorine level, the automatic temperature compensation should help mainitain your chlorine levels for water temperature changes. That is, as it gets warmer, the % setting will increase automatically, and as it gets colder, the % setting will decrease automatically.
The only times that you may need more chlorine is for inclimate weather or pool parties....or shocking the pool.
You can use the BOOST button to do this, or you can add chlorine (bleach, tabs, or cal hypo).
Re: Which SaltWater Chlorinator
What is the chlorine output (lbs./day) of the various Pool Pilot cells (36, 48, 60)?
Re: Which SaltWater Chlorinator
Quote:
Originally Posted by
bassadict69
I know there was LOADS of info on these things before the crash but now we seem to be starting from scratch.
Anyway, Which one of these seem to be the best? And what exactly should I be looking for once I start shopping for one?
Anyone have any negatives they have run into from using one?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
bassadict69
I know there was LOADS of info on these things before the crash but now we seem to be starting from scratch.
Anyway, Which one of these seem to be the best? And what exactly should I be looking for once I start shopping for one?
Anyone have any negatives they have run into from using one?
I have a system made by Zodiac. which is out of Florida. The brand name is
Clearwater. I would definitely NOT recommend it to anyone! Although it produces Chlorine, it is far harder to maintain than just adding Chlorine to the pool from time to time. Ideally the salt cell should be cleaned daily, but I do mine three times a week. They recommend soaking it in acid to dissolve the calcium, but from my experience with the first cell that is not a good idea!
I scrape the individual mesh plates with a popsicle stick and the use a hose on it at high pressure, after which I let it sit out in the sun for a couple of hours. This lets the remaining deposits dry out and then by tapping the cell they drop off into a fine powder. The main problem I have had is screwing the
electrode cap back on to form a watertight seal. Even though I use a waterproof grease on the rubber o-ring these stretch after a few uses rendering them useless. These rings are very hard to find, and are not available through your average pool or hardware store. Zodiac will not suppy them, in fact they will not even answer your email. I was fortunate in finding
a supplier and bought their entire stock of nine. I am now on tghe last of gthese and that supplier s now out of business. Once again I have contacted Zodiac and have not received a reply, nor really expect one. I have no alternative but to go back to the tried and true method of chorination. There may be manufacturers out there with parts avaialability and customer service, but I'm not willing to ante up more $$$$ to find out
