Bromine Chemistry Question

Thanks! That helps. Now I just need to know what to do tonight! :-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BromineUser

After adding 6C dichlor and waiting an hour:

AM: (I did not get up at dawn but the auto-cover was closed)
FC 5.0
CC: 0.8
pH: 7.4 (but if I let it sit for a while it rises to 8.0 so maybe that was issue last night?)
TA: 200
CH: 90
CYA: 0 (but the mixture looked cloudier than last night)

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Leave the cover off, if you can. And add some muriatic acid, to lower the pH.

Read these pages:

http://pool9.net/ma/ (Using muriatic acid safely)
http://pool9.net/alk-step/ (Step by step guide to lowering alkalinity)

Will do, thanks. I was wondering if TA was next...! Should I just use the pool calculator for maintaining my FC for now, rather than bugging you about it? If so, I will continue using dichlor until I get a CYA reading (unless you tell me otherwise).

Really, what I want is for you to sort of keep it in your head. That sounds a bit hard, and probably is, right now. But you'll get use to it, and doing so will make things easier.

As far as chlorine goes, 10% of your CYA will keep you algae-free. You can go lower, if the pool has no sign of algae.

Use the poolcalculator as needed, but "use" it, instead of letting it "use" you.

Thanks for the reply although I don't know what you want me to keep in my head. Figuring out the amount of dichlor or bleach I should add?
Anyway, I went to Leslie's to get more MA (they are cheaper than anywhere around here believe it or not: $11.79/2G of 31.45%) and took in a water sample. They have the same pH and FC numbers as I do but again we differed on TA (I said 200, they said 170) and CH (I said 90, they said 150). You said you liked to see comparison numbers, so there you go.
I added 3/4G of MA to aim for pH 7.0 (I am going to use my OTO for ph because it goes to 6.8 vs the K2006) I will check pH in 4 hours and add more MA if needed. When the pH gets down, I will aerate by 2 fountains and the step spa-jets.

What I meant, by "keep it in your head", is that if you add doses, and then test, you'll get to the point where you know what a reasonable dose of chlorine, acid, or alkalinity is for YOUR pool. That way, if your chlorine is low or your pH high, you can simply add the right dose -- learned by experience -- rather than running into the house (or for your smart phone -- and handling phones while you're handling chlorine tabs is NOT a good idea!!) and checking the calculator.

New forum members sometimes get fixated on various calculators, and become dependent on them, which prevents them from reaching that plateau where, 90% of the time, you know the right dose as soon as you see the test results.

While we're waiting for TA to adjust, I have a few questions for Ben. You had me purchase 4 qts. polyquat and 12# of calcium hypochlorite. I am not sure when I am supposed to use them. In years past, the "pool store" had me do a weekly maintenance of 3 lbs "shock", 6 oz polyquat eq., 6 oz clarifier, and 6 oz HEDP eq. I know the clarifier is out with BBB method, but what about the polyquat, the HEDP, and the calcium hypochorite? Do I do any of these on a maintenance/regular level? If not, I am sure you asked me to purchase them with good reason and I need to know when you intend for me to use them.

I know nothing about bromine pools but usually you can use Polyquat weekly adding a couple of ounces, or more. Polyquat's one drawback is it can drive chlorine levels down, so you have to compensate for that. I believe it also doubles as a clarifier.

Let me clarify some things.

1. Hardly anything is "out" with the BBB method. Carl's due credit for coming up with a convenient and easy-to-remember name for the approach to pool chemistry I've taught, but there are times I wish he'd thought of a different name. The problem is, it tends to fix people's minds too tightly on a limited set of chemicals. The fact is, I'm not against ANY chemical . . . used with a good reason.

2. Polyquat allows you to keep your pool from going green, while the chlorine is low.

3. When you've got metals in the water, you need to keep the chlorine low, to avoid 'dropping them out' and causing stains.

4. But, EVENTUALLY, you have to do just that: the cal hypo is for the purpose of helping you 'drop them out' on the filter (and on the calcium particles on the filter, from the cal hypo.)

Basically, what you're trying to do, is get your pool up and running smoothly via HEDP, polyquat, low-ish pH, and low-ish chlorine. Once you've done so, THEN you can switch to removing metals without staining things much, using gradually rising pH, gradually rising chlorine . . . and precipitation ONTO the filter, via cal hypo.

Unfortunately, managing metals remains complicated. I haven't come up with, or seen, a simple method for doing so. We'd hoped this product would do so:

1.5 ppm CuLator pack
Poolmaster 16242 Poolmaster Skimmer Basket Liner

We've been disappointed, because though it works, it works too slowly to be a one-step solution. It *is* useful as an ongoing preventative. If you get one, get the skimmer socks, too. These keep it from being quickly contaminated with 'pool goo'. CuLator says you should change these monthly -- and you should, if your goal is to improve CuLator's quarterly statement! Otherwise, you only need to change it when it's heavily discolored (from captured metals) OR gummed up with goo.


Does this clear up any of your questions?

(Carl --- this is no longer a bromine pool. Converted to chlorine.)