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Yes, we need to verify that your CYA is really as high as it appears, before we can really proceed. Watch the CYA video again.
And, take a look at these Taylor images:
https://www.taylortechnologies.com/m...s/image001.jpg
https://www.taylortechnologies.com/m...s/image002.jpg
https://www.taylortechnologies.com/m...s/image003.jpg
I tested CYA again and maybe I did do something wrong the first time. I really watched until I was SURE I didn't see the black dot and now it registers about 80. Does that help? Hang in there with me-please!
Jane
80 is pretty high but workable. This late in the season, draining might not be worth it. Its up to you. Check the best guess chart for the amount of bleach youll need at 80 cya (24 FC I think) to stay at shock levels.
I have looked at that chart and have no idea what it means. I don't mean to sound stupid here, but am I missing something? Where does the chart indicate how much I need to add? Is there anyone who can explain this to me?
So, if you did the dilution and the test read 80, that means your CYA is 160 since you have to multiply the result by 2.
With a CYA of 160, you need to keep your chlorine levels between 8-15 ALL the time. If you dip lower than 8, you risk an algae bloom. And, when you need to shock the pool, your shock level will be 25ppm.
What is the volume of your pool?
23000 gallons
Did you test with a 50/50 diluted sample or no?
So, each evening, when you test your chlorine, you'll want to add enough bleach to take the chlorine level up to 25ppm. In case you have forgotten from a post earlier in this thread, in your pool, each of the 121-oz jugs of 8.25% bleach will add about 3.5ppm of chlorine. Use that as a reference to figure out how much bleach to add each evening to get back to 25ppm. You'll want to continue keeping the chlorine level at 25ppm by using bleach until you meet 3 criteria:
1) You lose no more than 1ppm of FC from sundown to within one hour of sunrise the next morning.
2) You have no higher than 0.5ppm of CC
3) Your water is clear
At that point, keep the chlorine at 25ppm for one additional day and then you can let it drift down and keep it between 8-15 ALL the time. I would not advise using any more stabilized forms of chlorine in your pool like trichlor tabs or dichlor powder as they will both make your CYA continue to climb and yours is already really high.
Also, remember that when you test pH, you will get an invalid result if your chlorine is over 10ppm with a Taylor kit. (Over 5ppm with other kits.) So, dilute your sample -- half pool water and half distilled water and run the pH test with that mixture if your chlorine level is over 10ppm.
When you do the chlorine test, use the 10mL sample instead of the 25mL one and it will make your reagents last longer. You'll multiply the number of drops by 0.5 instead of 0.2. Also, if one scoop of the powder turns the water pink when you do the FC test, you don't need to add the second one. That, too, will save on your reagents.
Hope this helps.
One more thing. Please make a signature. In it, please give the type of pool, volume, type and size of pump and filter, city water or well water and the fact that you have a K2006. That makes it easier for us to help without having to constantly scroll back through this long thread. You can make a signature by clicking on the tab in my signature below. Thanks!
Thank you Watermom! With the help of my son, we finally figured out what I have to do... add 5 jugs of bleach to get to 25 ppm and enough to keep it at that level every night until the 3 criteria are met. Might need some help once I get to that point.