Upgrade recommendations for replacing 14" Intex sand filter combo?

Perhaps I can make an inner ferrule to help hold it round, similar to the insert in air brake compression fittings. I'd rather use the clear pvc if the quality is as good or better.

From a different thread:

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Originally Posted by PoolDoc

The WhisperFlo is almost certainly too big . . . unless you get at least a 24" sand filter.

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I expect to throttle the pump and/or run the pump on low. I have a valve for that purpose ordered. The owners manual has flow/head curves that show the pump moves 45 GPM max and about 15 GPM @ 20' on low. High speed moves 95 GPM max, 85 GPM @ 30' and about 22 GPM (close to what I need) 80'.

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Originally Posted by PoolDoc

Look at the differencee between these bulkhead fittings:

Hayward SP1023 bulkhead fitting
Hayward SP1023G bulkhead fitting

Please let me know which bulkhead you use, and it works.

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The difference between SP1023 and SP1023G is the inclusion of a "sandwich washer" in addition to the standard washer with the -G. I think I'll be okay with the non-G fitting. If they leak, I'll order the sandwich washers (assuming I can) or return the non-G fittings and order G type.

https://i.imgur.com/MaA23cp.jpghttps...om/MaA23cp.jpg

This is what came with the SP1023 - non-G - bulkhead fitting from Amazon, in a sealed Hayward plastic bag: a bulkhead fitting, 1 backing nut, 2 rubber washers and 1 cork washer.

I'm not going to use the cork washer at all. I will use both rubber washers, one inside and the other outside. I don't think the outside will be necessary for sealing, but it will provide a cushion between the vinyl liner and the hard edge of the backing nut. I don't think there would be any advantage to a sandwich washer for me. If one had 2 layers, where the vinyl liner was supported by a metal or fiberglass shell, the sandwich washer might be useful in ensuring water couldn't get BETWEEN the layers.

Pretty sure you received the 'G' model. As best I can tell, it is a superset of the standard model.

I'd bet the brown ring is fiber, not cork, and is intended to allow you to tighten the fitting without twisting the liner. But you can probably accomplish the same thing by spraying a bit of silicone spray (like this: DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant )

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PoolDoc

Pretty sure you received the 'G' model. As best I can tell, it is a superset of the standard model.

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I agree that the 'G' model is a superset. I can't say if what I got was the 'G' or not because I don't know for sure what the "sandwich washer" is. I envisioned a grommet-like rubber gasket that was basically a thick washer with a groove cut around the outside perimeter, almost to the inner diameter so the pool wall could be "sandwiched" in the groove.

A little further investigation at InYoPool shows this http://images.inyopools.com/cloud/im...650&height=650
as the non-'G' model and this http://images.inyopools.com/cloud/im...650&height=650
as the 'G' model.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PoolDoc

I'd bet the brown ring is fiber, not cork, and is intended to allow you to tighten the fitting without twisting the liner. But you can probably accomplish the same thing by spraying a bit of silicone spray (like this: DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant )

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The brown ring is definitely NOT real cork, it's a fibrous imitation cork. I was planning on mixing liquid dish soap 50/50 with water and putting a drop or two on both sides of the OUTSIDE rubber washer as a lubricant, rather than using silicone. I hadn't thought that the fiber washer might be intended as a lubricant pad.

While I was looking for a schedule 80 pvc supplier, I stumbled upon these people.

https://flexpvc.com/

They sell domestic flex pvc in several sizes by the foot or in rolls - with a lifetime limited warranty? Been in business since February, 2008. One BBB complaint. No BBB reviews. Not BBB accredited.

Hmmmmm.

I'd try them. The worst flex I've seen will probably last 2 years, and you can always fix pin-holes by draining and then putting a PVC coupling where the pinhole is located.

But they seem like they'd be in a position to know the 'good stuff' from the typical stuff.

The price isn't too much different, so I probably will. They recommend the black pipe, instead of white, if it will be exposed to the sun. It can be painted or wrapped (guess who sells wrap tape) to protect it from UV energy.

The pump came in today. Looks like an open box return, rather than "used: like new". There is no sign that it has ever been wired or plumbed. I'm going to post pictures showing the difference in the Intex .75 hp rated pump/motor and the Pentair .75 hp rated pump/motor. The Intex is rated at 120 V - 4.8 A MAX. The Pentair is rated at 120 V 4.7 A - - - on LOW. 14.6 A full load.

Do you have an amp meter? Can you check amps on both the Intex and the Hayward?

Can you use one of these: P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Monitor ?

You wouldn't by chance think that the label on the motor might be incorrect??? I do have an ammeter, but it's really a milliamp meter. I wonder how well the Kill a Watt tolerates being operated at or near max load. The Pentair is very close to the max rating when it's at full load. That would be an interesting bit of info. I wouldn't be scared to close the return valve completely on the Intex pump, because it only makes about 14 or 15 psi deadheaded (according to the Intex supplied pressure gauge).