IMO, the easiest way to add stabilizer is to use dichlor. If you buy a 24# pack of bagged dichlor at Sams Club, and use 15#, you'll have a CYA level of about 45. You can gradually use the rest to maintain stabilizer.
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IMO, the easiest way to add stabilizer is to use dichlor. If you buy a 24# pack of bagged dichlor at Sams Club, and use 15#, you'll have a CYA level of about 45. You can gradually use the rest to maintain stabilizer.
Algae is dead, liner is repaired, pool is filled, and the water is clear.
I ran the tests a few minutes ago:
FC - 19.5 PPM
CC - 1.5 PPM
PH - low (Acid Demand test - 6 drops to 7.4~7.6)
TA - 20 ppm
CH - 30 ppm
CA - 45~50 ppm
My thought was that TA would be the best starting point, is this correct?
pH first!
Add borax, 3 boxes at a time, till you reach 7.0. Then 1 box at a time. Retest your TA *after* your pH reaches 7.4.
Add it slowly, since a borax plug in a pipeline is VERY hard to dissolve. (As long as the flow through your skimmer is not getting 'choked' you'll be fine.)
But . . . when you retest pH, do so using a 50:50 mix of pool water and DISTILLED water. FC=19 is high enough to affect readings with phenol red.
(distilled water at Walmart => www.walmart.com/ip/10315382)
I wanted to give the pool a little time for the chlorine levels to drop. With my CYA levels, I think I should be running between 3ppm and 6ppm FC.
Here are the latest test results...
FC - 3.5 PPM
CC - 0.5 PPM
PH - 7.2 (Base Demand test - 3 drops to ~7.6)
TA - 40 ppm
CH - 40 ppm
CA - 45~50 ppm
When adding Borax, how long should I wait between application and testing?
There's no definite answer; a really 'good' answer would depend on observing circulation in your individual pool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Traxl
But, 4 hours of pump 'ON' should be more than enough.