Quote:
Originally Posted by PoolDoc
Understand, point well taken.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoolDoc
Understand, point well taken.
Well, refill almost complete. Water level has about 8 inches to go.
I have my Bleach, Borax, and Baking Soda ready. As soon as the water gets up to skimmer level I'll get the pump primed and going, then I'll test the water to see where it's at.
So, what do you recommend I do first at that point?
From what I've read, I should first put some cyanuric acid in a sock and drop that in the skimmer basket. I'm thinking I should first shoot for a CYA level of 30. I will let the PoolCalculator figure out how much acid to put into the sock. Then I'll add chlorine AS IF the CYA was already at 30. That means a FC level of 4.
Then I'll adjust the TA and pH. My fill water has a pH of 7.7 and a TA of 90. So, I'm thinking that I'll probably have to lower the pH just a little.
If you have access to a Sams Club, I'd buy 2 of their 24# boxes of bagged dichlor. Each 1lb bag will add about 2.5 ppm of chlorine, and 2 ppm of stabilizer (CYA). Once you've reached 60 ppm CYA (= ~30 bags of dichlor, on your pool), you'll want to switch to bleach. Dichlor ALSO lowers your pH, not immediately, but later. So, you'll need some of the borax on hand, to maintain your pH, but since your pH is starting a bit high, you may not need it aft first.
You can also use cal hypo, cautiously. It will add calcium which you will need at first.
However, you need to understand that with a pool in the desert, and with a DE filter, you are going to be constantly losing water to evaporation -- leaving all the minerals behind. And with a DE filter, you will NOT be losing water to backwashing. This means the replace water will ADD to the calcium present.
So, while you want to get your calcium up some now (maybe, 180) you don't want to hurry, and you don't want to go too far, since you'll also be adding MORE calcium every time you top off your water.
I have a Costco nearby. I still have 11 1 lb bags left from the last box I bought.Quote:
Originally Posted by PoolDoc
Still have some of that.Quote:
You can also use cal hypo, cautiously. It will add calcium which you will need at first.
Not sure I'm following you here. True, I do have a lot of evaporation, but I also do a lot of backwashing because even though this is a desert climate, my immediate area has a lot of tree leaves and other crud flying into the pool on a regular basis. Ergo, a lot of backwashing/filter cleaning.Quote:
However, you need to understand that with a pool in the desert, and with a DE filter, you are going to be constantly losing water to evaporation -- leaving all the minerals behind. And with a DE filter, you will NOT be losing water to backwashing. This means the replace water will ADD to the calcium present.
Got it.Quote:
So, while you want to get your calcium up some now (maybe, 180) you don't want to hurry, and you don't want to go too far, since you'll also be adding MORE calcium every time you top off your water.
Depending on what sort of DE filter you have, and how you clean (open & wash down VS. backwash), and how long you backwash, pools with DE filters tend to actually 'waste & replace' from 10% to 50% of the water that pools with sand filters use. This means that CYA, calcium, metals, etc. accumulate in such pools more rapidly than in pools with sand filters.
Of course, pools with cartridge filters tend to 'waste & replace' even less, maybe 5 - 10% of what pools with sand filters do.
Okay, I just completed a cpmplete test of the refilled pool water. Here are the results:
FC 0.5 (10 ml sample)
CC 0.0
pH 8.0
TA 100
CH 100
CYA <30
So, I guess I'll start adding dichlor now.
At 10:00am I added four 1 lb bags of dichlor to the pool.
At 11:00am the water test numbers are:
FC: 10
pH: 7.4
TA: 100
CH: 90
CYA Not tested. I'll wait until tomorrow to test that again. I'm waiting on my 8 oz bottle of R-0013 to arrive in the mail.
So, looks like I need to up the CH a bit.
Okay, 6:00pm water test:
FC: 5
CC: .5
pH: 7.4
TA: 90
CH: 90
CYA: <30
Gonna add some cyanuric acid. All I have at the moment is 20 oz of hth stabilizer, adding that now, will get more later.
Just a heads up: 11lbs of dichlor into 27K gal should give you 24 ppm CYA. But check the Costco dichlor, and make SURE it's undiluted (55% or 61% available chlorine). If it is, you might want to use the dichlor to raise your CYA, rather than buying CYA.
Dichlor, at $2.50/lb (Sams Club price) = $5/lb as stabilizer without considering chlorine. But hard-to-dissolve HTH (or other brand) stabilizer is often sold at $5/lb or MORE. When you consider that a pound of dichlor has about the same chlorine as a $2 0.75 gallon jug of Walmart bleach . . . using dichlor is a very cheap and easy way to add BOTH chlorine and stabilizer.
The primary CAUTION here is that this applies to pure undiluted dichlor, purchased at a good price. That rules out most Lowes, KMart, Walmart and pool store offerings. It also rules out Costco in MY area, but apparently their stock varies from store to store.
The secondary CAUTION is that this "good deal" ONLY applies while you still NEED stabilizer. Using dichlor, after you have enough, chlorine may be an OK deal, but once your near the "TOO MUCH" level, dichlor is a "bad deal"
My "shock" (Di-chlor) from Costco says this on the label:
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:
Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione.... 58.2%
OTHER INGREDIENTS.................41.8%
TOTAL INGREDIENTS.................100.0%
How do I know if it's UNdiluted dichlor?
I now have an 8 oz bottle of R-0013 reagent, so I'm going to keep testing the CYA level about every other day while I'm adding the dichlor. I don't want to overshoot the target and have to refill the pool again. Taking it cautiously while still maintaining the FC at 7 - 10 ppm.
Is this stuff a good price? Even at their sale price, it seems a little pricey to me.
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