In 2002, Pool Magnet Plus was 36% HEDP -- could have changed, however.
Do NOT use the algaecide; it's useless. Check Walmart, Lowes, and Home Depot for polyquat. See this page: http://poolsolutions.com/polyquat.html
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In 2002, Pool Magnet Plus was 36% HEDP -- could have changed, however.
Do NOT use the algaecide; it's useless. Check Walmart, Lowes, and Home Depot for polyquat. See this page: http://poolsolutions.com/polyquat.html
Arg. I already put in one quart of that Bioguard algaecide. Is it just useless or have I done something harmful?
Ran quick to Leslie's and got a polyquat 60%. Off to catch my plane!
Some algaecides cause foaming issues in pools.
It is generally best to not try and combine chemistry advice from a local pool store and from here. It will often conflict and you can end up with a mess in your pool. Best to pick one or the other to take the advice from. Hope that makes sense! :)
Yes, it does make sense, but Dave and Ben said to go ahead with their products for today but the pool store did the old switcharoo on algaecides. At least I didn't use the copper one! I AM trusting the forum. Absolutely! Thanks!
My water is now clear and no longer brown-tinged! The pool store is done now with the "complimentary" chemicals. They had me add one more quart of Pool Magnet Plus and they say it's time to add: 25 lbs of chlorine (they did a chlorine demand test). The chemicals I have added to my new water are: 2/3G of MA, 4 quarts of Pool Magnet Plus, 1 quart of Inhibit Back-up (chemical composition on page 3) and 1 quart of 60% polyquat.
What I need to know is what YOU say I should do next. Also, I do plan on adding borates whenever you say it's time.
My numbers are:
pH 7.4 (7.3+)
TA 180 (Alex test says 180, Leslie's test says 150-160)
CH 100 (Alex test says Tot. Hardness 164, Leslie's test says CH 130)
Thanks!
Do *NOT* dump 25# of chlorine in there -- it will 'break' some, if not all of the HEDP, and could drop any metals out on your liner. Do *NOT* raise the pH (add borates) yet.
Have you used the polyquat? Can you get more? Can you get DE locally? Can you easily get calcium hypochlorite locally for a reasonable price (< $4/lb)?
(By the way, thanks for the comparison test results -- that's very helpful info for us. If you can, once you begin adding CYA, and do CYA testing, I'd love to see a comparison on those test results.)
Thanks, Ben.
I used 32 oz of polyquat last Friday that I paid $30 for at Leslie's. In-The-Swim is about 25 minutes away in West Chicago, IL and they sell quarts of polyquat for $23.00. So yes, I can get more polyquat locally that is cheaper than Leslie's.
Home Depot has 25# bags of DE for $20.00. Should I get some and add 2 cups per day?
Calcium hypochlorite appears in lots of "bag-o'-shock" products. Is that what you mean? If so, I wouldn't know how to chose from one bag to the next. Is there a specific chemical composition that I should look for?
All I have on hand in terms of chemicals are a 50# bucket of 99% dichlor from Sam's Club and a few gallons of 12.5% bleach. I don't plan on adding CYA, borates, or anything else until you tell me to!
Randy
I included links to all three products, but it looks like the polyquat might be the only one you want to buy from Amazon.
Kem-Tek 60% polyquat @ Amazon
Nava 60% polyquat @ AmazonIn the Swim 12 x 1# cal hypoDiatomaceous Earth (DE) pool filter powder, 25lbs
Yes, get some polyquat -- maybe 4 quarts -- and the DE. You may not need all the polyquat, but it will keep indefinitely, so long as sunlight doesn't damage the bottles. And it's safe and non-corrosive.
Add the DE and let it run overnight. Then begin dosing with small amounts of dichlor -- 2 ppm on your pool would be just under 1 pound, or about 1 pint dry measure each evening. Make SURE there are no other chemicals in the system -- tabs, feeders, injectors, etc -- and then add the dichlor directly to the skimmer, while the pump is running.
Test chlorine levels the following AM and in the PM, before adding another dose. Report your results. Also, notice the COLOR of the backwash water the first time you backwash.