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OK: If you don't have algae and your CC level is .5 or less, then you need to keep your FC (free Chlorine) level in maintenance mode, not shock mode. With a CYA of 100 or more, Maintenance Mode means an FC of 8-15ppm. Shock mode means an FC of 25. So if your are between 8 and 15 and your level pretty much holds overnight, with only a small loss, you're golden.
I hope that helps.
Carl, in Wilco's overnight test he lost 10ppm FC. That's why WaterMom took him to shock level.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilco
Wilco, we originally said 15 because with your CYA level, 8-15 is your maintenance range. Now that you have determined that you are losing FC overnight, we know you are fighting something unusual in your pool and need to shock it at 25.
Yes, you need to add bleach in the morning too. Your goal is to get it to 25 and keep it there as much as possible. If you can, make additions mid-day too.
Carl may have not read the entire thread. Shock level is what you want. Even though there is no algae, you have huge chlorine demand. So, you do want to shock the pool and keep it at shock level until you get past it. Sorry for the seemingly conflicting advice.
ok. guess ill be making triweekly costco runs. also, you all mentioned running the pump 24/7. what is the reasoning there?
Actually, without algae, probably not as critical. Usually when shocking a pool, it is to clear up an algae bloom and thus we say filter 24/7. In your case, probably not as necessary.
better to run at night or day? would it have any potential to prevent nighttime drifting of cl?
Doesn't really matter and it shouldn't have anything to do with the night-time chlorine loss.
Ok. Just hit 3gallons, should be at shock level---8+6+6+6 (will test)
Thank you all
That would be true....oops. But if you're losing 10ppm overnight, it may well be some other contamination you have to metabolize. Algae is, in an of itself, harmless. But it "bleeds" the chlorine out of your water so it can't metabolize the really bad stuff, like animal, avian and human fecal matter, and other bacterial contamination. Algae's just the most obvious and visible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Watermom
I know, I don't get why the drop overnight. No visible issues with contaminants. Bather load is light. Pump is running relatively low pressure, but I guess I can do aa backwash. I still think it's somehow related to the extreme hardness of the water here. I have scaling all around the pool. Takes a toll on dishwashers, water heaters, shower doors in a major way here.
It may be that some of your CYA biodegraded. That is pretty common and we see it a lot of times in the spring when people open their pools. If it biodegrades, it can leave ammonia as a byproduct which causes a huge chlorine demand to get rid of it. I have a feeling that is what is going on in your pool. Or, you may have some other type of organic in the water that you cannot see that is causing the demand. Sometimes a pool can be on the verge of an algae bloom without having any visible signs and you go through a lot of chlorine. I highly doubt that having hard water would have any effect on chlorine use.
I don't know of anyone here who has heard of a connection between hard water and chlorine neutralization.
Other than organic matter that the chlorine metabolizes, the only chlorine neutralizers I know of are solar UV rays and Sodium Thiosulfate (R-0007 in the Taylor reagent chemicals).
Last night, tested at 6 pm, got 13 ppm, added 2 gallons. Got a little rain last night, retest at 7 am, 12 ppm. Added my last gallon. Back to store for more. That's 11 gallons in 3 days.
Ok, new twist. Given your thoughts that there is still something organic going on. I reconsidered something. At different degrees, there has rather consistently been a loose, brown, fine debris that accumulates on the step down shallow area surrounding the pool, and somewhat in the corners.i thought this was dirt, as we have planters, etc around the pool that may leak into the pool during storms I suppose. I had been brushing daily last month, but had gotten away from that as the chlorine upkeep became paramount. Is this algae/dead algae?
If you were here in the NE we'd be saying pollen--it's allergy season here.
Ok, so I just had a revelation, I think. I believe I mentioned that I had a 500 gallon spa attached to the pool? Well, it's attached but only with overflow into the pool. I never actually tested the spa water, thinking it was all the same, and it would splash it with bleach or shock, but not test it. We'll I tested it. Ph unmeasurable high, like probably 9, and no detectable FCC even after a gallon of Clorox. I think it has been bleeding into the pool and acting as a feeder of algae, and I was just band aiding it instead of treating the source. So I hit it with acid and more bleach and will retest often. Jeez.
Regardless, it's not the pollen that is causing your chlorine demand. Get FC to 25 and try your very best to keep it there without too much of a drop. 11 jugs doesn't seem like that much to tell you the truth. Keep the faith!
Okay, cross-post. Let us know results of spa testing. Spas can be nasty creatures. My apologies for not remembering the spa over-flow. Why do installers do that? Yuck.
Got the cl up to 25 in the spa, but ph still high, added 2 more cups of acid. Plus we are supposed to get major monsoon rains next few days. I am going to need more testing supplies, that's for sure. Got the too kit, but not ready for it at all yet.
*OTO kit
Remember to go through PoolDoc or WaterMom's links whenever buying on Amazon! And remember also, that Amato Industries discounts shipping for multiple items upon check-out (not before). Check especially your supplies of : 0871. 0870, 0004, and 0013. Most keep well over time and stored out of sun and cool-ish.
Uh, sorry. Another thought. At 500G, can you just drain and refill that spa? AND please make a signature so we won't forget your spa in the future!
I did accidentally drain it about 3 weeks ago, not sure how I did it or how it refilled. How's that for competence?
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I'll see where things are in am, again with monsoon rains, it may work for me a little
Okay. Will wait to hear. Maybe monsoon rains could refill that spa! But really? Not sure how you drained and refilled? That sounds like the systems are connected somehow. I know nothing about hydraulics but that doesn't make sense to me.
Actually, pollen in the water will increase chlorine consumption. Anything organic in the water will. It is not the entire cause of his issue but just wanted to clarify that anything organic in the water (pollen, leaves, etc.) will use more chlorine.Quote:
Originally Posted by FormerBromineUser
Retested this am, spa ph at 7.2, chlorine levels held at 17 at both pool and spa. I think I'm making progress ( but won't let foot off gas yet)
Important clarification, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Watermom
I'm not sure if this helps or not, but, mary jo had a very similar situation in this thread: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php/25802-Clear-but-no-chlorine. The pool had high CYA and chlorine demand after an extended period of insufficient chlorination. The good news is that it was eventually resolved by maintaining shock level FC for a very long time.
Mary Jo (see above link) read your thread and wondered about your CC. Last reading I saw was on the 14th or so. Spa? Pool? Either greater than 0.5?
Cc is still 0. Cl this am was 17., and I added a gallon between the spa and pool, retested at 5 pm, cl was 20 in both. I think I have this thing on the run, just not sur what it was.
We may never know what it was; sometimes it just doesn't matter if it's fixed. Who knows what you inherited with your pool.
My friend's inherited pool (which I mentioned before), had thick gobs of algae in the insides of their jets. Still fighting demand there cause I think there has to be algae in the feeder lines which we can't manually clean. Not sure what we're gonna do about that...
Keeping your bleach additions >=25 will only help.
I did ask for input on your pool/spa connection, but no responses yet. Still seems strange to me that you could accidentally drain the spa but I already admitted my ignorance of spa issues. It hope that the spa will hold the key for you and that stability is around the corner!
Maybe it was when I put the vacuum in there?
Not a hydraulics person but would that explain refill??? The responses I requested were from spa people, not you, btw. Was looking for their expert input, not as a criticism of you! :o
BTW, like your pic on your profile! Make that your avatar or better yet a pic of the pool and spa. Signature too? Here's mine for guidance: 26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump on 24/7; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006, OTO
Ah. Go bears.
Hahaha! I'm more of a hockey fan, especially with all the football players in trouble lately! Beaides, hockey keeps me busy during non-pool seaon. Go Blackhawks!
Randy
Yep, big hawks fan as well. Born in Chicago. Cl 17 this am, and I'm out of testing drops, more on the way but will have to guess for a bit.
Until your reagents arrive, use your new OTO kit. This link will help you interpret the results with high chlorine levels: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...sults-by-color
Sept. 23: first preseason game!
Perfect, I was stuck thinking it would only test up to 5.
I'll work on the profile, who knows, maybe I can help someone else at some point.
You can also use the CarlD (patented)( :) ) Shot Glass Method:
Mix 1 shot of pool water with 1 shot of steam distilled water in (say) a Pyrex mixing cup. Pour into the OTO cell and read, doubling the value. If it STILL is over "5"ppm (actually 10ppm), then...
mix 1 shot of pool water with 2 shots of steam distilled water. Now triple the value of the reading which, when at "5" means it's 15ppm. You can do it with 3 shots of distilled as well and then "5" ==> 20ppm.
However, the more you dilute, the greater the chance of introducing inaccuracy.