Trying to Swim More and do less work

I want to run a theory by everyone.

Last night, I put a small 1" Triclor tab into my skimmer and additionally had floated a 3" Trichlor tab (in a floater holder) in the path of my return flow.

Keep in mind that since my pool only has one skimmer and it is a direct pull to my pump/filter the draw is very strong.

Could the Trichlor tab in the skimmer disolved so rapidly due to the water flow that it created a 'High' chlorine level flow at the filter which in turn casued the metals to 'Fall out' and be pushed back into the pool at the return. And the fact that I also floated another tab in the return flow gave the metals in the return another chance to live as they entered the water?

Let me know what you think?

I think it's more possible that the 3" puck in the return flow chlorinated the water enough to let the metals fall back out of suspension. Actually, I've heard of instances where the practice of putting a puck in the skimmer is used sometimes to force the metals to "fall out" onto the filter, preventing it from returning to the pool.

Janet

Here is the latest:

Earlier this morning I reduced my PH to about 7.0 with a little MA. I pulled out my Floating Trichlor Tab and let the sun reduce my FC to about .5 - 1. I added about 6 oz of Pool Magnet Plus(left over from last treatment) and 20 oz of HTH Metal Control while letting my pump continue to run.

After a few hours, the pool is back to its Crystal Clarity down to the bottom. (With the exception of some larger stains that I couldn't get during the last vacuum job)

I added about 1qt of Bleach to bring my FC back to 1-2. I also added back the 3" floater in the return path of the water. ( I am planning to remove the floater when my Chlorine gets to the right level and begins to hold) I also went to the pool store and bought some CYA(Stabalizer). I am dissolving about 1lb of the product in a container and adding it to the pool return flow (No more skimmer dosing for me) to bring my CYA up to about 10ppm and am hoping that it will be enough to maintain my FC levels to at least a daily dosing.

**According to the Stabalizer instruction 1lb per 3000 gal gets you 40ppm, 1lb per 4000 gets you 30ppm so I'm guessing 1lb per 8000 should get me about 10ppm.

Open Question: How often and how long and when(Day/Night) should I run my filter?

I have my pump on a timer to run from noon to about 7 pm. I may change it to let it run to more like 8 pm because I don't seem to get out there to add bleach until after dinner each evening and I want my pump to run for an hour or so after adding it. Other people will have a different schedule. Unless you are having water problems of some sort, 8 hours or so is fine.

Are there any Pros/Cons as to when the filter runs?

I like the idea of running the filter a little after a bleach application, however I would like to run it overnight.

Are there any rules of thumb to use regarding when a filter should be run? Day vs Night?

Mostly a matter of preference. Some places have peak hours where the rate is more expensive, others don't. If you have solar panels, you want to be circulating water during peak sun hours for maximum heating benefit. If you have solar panels and your pool is too hot, you can run the water through the panels at night to cool the water down. As long as you run your pump long enough to turn the water over at least once per day, you will be fine. Some people do 24/7 which is really unnecessary and wastes electricity. Some people do a couple of different sessions per day -- each about 4 hours. Some turn it on when they get up in the morning and off when they go to bed. I do 12-8 to maximize heat gain from my solar panels. There is no one right answer.

Hopefully my last post to this thread.

Man vs pool =
Week 1 - Pool
Week 2 - Man

FC = 2.5
CC = 0
TC = 0
PH = 7.0
ALK = 110
CYA = (Still adjusting with Stabalizer) targeting 10-15

I am happy to announce that I think I've trained my pool or perhaps my pool has trained me. Through a little POP, the support from all on this forum, and a little give and take with the pool. We have come to a position of mutual respect. All I need to do is be sensitive to the pools needs, don't make any drastic changes, be careful how I introduce those changes, and in return, the pool will give me crystal clear water. I wonder if pools get moody once a month because this relationship sounds very familliar.....

Once again, thanks to all.

Q. How important is the ALK number? If my PH is stable, do I need to mess with ALK?

Very clever post! Had to laugh out loud when I read the "this relationship sounds very familiar" part! ;)

Your alk is fine at 110. Watch the ph and don't let it drop any lower than 7.0. Also, FC + CC = TC, so if your FC and CC are correct above, then your TC (total cl) is also 2.5. Targeting 10-15 on stabilizer is fine, but you may find it difficult to maintain chlorine throughout the day especially when it is really hot and sunny. If so, you can always bump the cya level up some. As you said above, you'll learn what your pool needs in time. All of your statements about no drastic changes, etc. are right on.

Glad we could help. Keep us posted how things are going and if you have more questions, we'll still be here willing and able!

By the way, glad the 'man' won. That is usually the case when you have POP! :)

Especially at those "once a month times":cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mbar

Especially at those "once a month times":cool:

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HA!!:D



Just a comment to add to the question about running the pump day or night. I run mine primarily during the day in the spring and fall, because it's easier for me to keep an eye on what's in the skimmer. In the heat of the summer, I often run it at night with a fountain to cool off my water. In Lousiana, at a certain point, pool water begins to feel like bath water!! Also, during the winter, I run it at night anytime the temp is going to get below the mid 20's or so to keep my pipes from freezing. Basically, when you run your pump really is geared toward your needs.

Janet