Green Pool (Was black at first)

Posted my numbers for today. Did a FC measurement this am and a complete one this pm. Still a light green color. Started to filter around noon.

Just Added 72oz of Dichlor. Hopefully another session will give me an ALY I can actually measure. My best guess is that I should be around 25 right now.

I'm sorry, pools are running together for me. Please fill out this pool equipment chart:

http://pool9.net/pf-pool-form/

What's an "ALY"?

Hi Doc,

I meant to write CYA not sure how I came up with the ALY (Probably the Chlorine affecting my brain).

I am in your pool chart list as like2ct.

Pool is starting to clear up still a little bit of green at the deep end.

Not this form which you've already done:

http://pool9.net/pf-hist-form/

But this form, which you haven't:

http://pool9.net/pf-pool-form/

Looked at your pool form. You have an S200 filter which has 'rated' flow of 44 GPM, but an optimal flow of 33 GPM (2.2 sft x 15 GPM/sft):

https://www.hayward-pool.com/images/...s_perfdata.gif

with a 2 HP Pentair Super-flo, which is functionally a 70 - 90 GPM pump in your situation!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N...0/SuperFlo.jpg

Unfortunately, that is a massively imbalanced pairing. The pump is way, way too big for the filter. As a result:

+ You are probably missing sand, that has been 'blown out' during backwashing.
+ You are probably pushing algae THROUGH the filter, rather than capturing it.
+ You are wasting at least 1/2 of your pool electric bill -- making your filtration worse in the process.


Here's what you need to do, immediately:

1. Install a ball valve between your pump and filter. Throttle the flow, till your *clean* filter pressure is 18 psi or lower.

Hayward 2" ball valve

2. Once the ball valve is in place, open the filter top, and check your sand level. You'll need this dome wrench, if you don't already have it:

Hayward S200 dome wrench

3. If the sand is low, add labeled filter sand to the correct level.

Longer term, you'll need to downsize your impeller / diffuser to 3/4 HP. Your 2HP motor will be a bit less efficient running the 3/4HP impeller, but it will run VERY cool, and last forever AND you'll probably still cut your bill in half.

3/4 HP impeller (1/2 & 3/4 HP impellers are the same)
3/4 HP diffuser
Seal kit

Amazon is not selling the seal kit directly, so here's another source:

Seal kit

Just out of curiosity, how did you end up with such a big pump coupled to that filter?

I should have picked up on the over sized pump problems, from the high filter pressures you reported, but I've just started working with those forms, and haven't gotten used to all that I can learn from them.

Hi Doc,

I appreciate it a lot for you to take the time to review my pool equipment.

The pool came with the house we purchased a year ago. I would have never given it any thought that there's a potential pump/motor mismatch. Motor seems to run very hot (when water hits it vaporizes).

Here some pictures of the pump label, motor label (I am pretty sure it says 2.0 HP) and general setup.

Pump, https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...613_172827.jpg

Motor, https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...613_173007.jpg

General plumbing:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...613_173138.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...613_181256.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...613_181314.jpg

Looks like your Amazon links are a bit mixed up.

The 3/4 HP Impeller shows the seal kit.
The 3/4 HP diffuser shows a 1/2 HP Impeller
The Seal kit shows the diffuser.

I almost think it's easier to install the long term fix as installing the ball valve seems to be a big challenge with the current routing of the pipes. Enabling the slide reduces the pressure by 5 points.

Thanks,
Ernst

Tonight's measurements:

FC 38 (K2006)
TA not able to measure with K2006 (goes from green to blue then yellow), ColorQ shows 88 which I suspect is too low, HTH Test strip shows 120-180 range which is more in line with previous measurements.
PH 7.3 (ColorQ)
CYA 100 with K2006 (did it twice), 49 with ColorQ and 30-50 with HTH guess strip. I hope that my ColorQ and HTH strip are accurate ;)

Based on my best guess CYA based on the Dichlor additions, I expected to be in the low thirties.

Will update spreadsheet with tonight's confusing numbers.

Did review my spreadsheet. I did a total of 5 rounds of 72oz Dichlor to raise the CYA which measured zero with K2006 when I started with the Dichlor. The ColorQ showed very low CYA numbers and the high one was an user error (test tube rotated 90 degrees). When measuring the CYA with ColorQ the test tube actually became smooth "blurry" as in previous measurements the crushed tablet didn't really dissolve. The one time I did measure the FC in the evening and in the morning the Dichlor added 9PPM of FC. So my best guesstimate CYA would have been in the low forties (In my previous post I thought that I only added 4 rounds of 72oz of Dichlor).

Thanks, for reading.
Ernst

I fixed the links above, but I'm going to need to do a new set. After looking at your plumbing, and hearing your description of the pump motor temp, I'm think you need a more complete rebuild.

If you replace your piping, and replace your motor with a 1HP 2 speed, you'll filter better, and save a LOT of money. Your existing motor is likely approaching failure, as hot as it's been running.

Pentair 355003S 1 HP 2 spd Square Flange Motor for SuperFlo Pump
Pentair 355067 1 HP impeller
Pentair 355617 1 HP diffuser

When you buy, do so by part # (355003S, 355067, 355617) -- the parts are confusing, and overlap different models in odd ways. You can should confirm using the Pentair Superflo manual, pg 12, before buying.

The seal kit is the same as above.

When you re-install, use MIP / FIP combined couplings, with blue dope:

2" MIP
2" FIP
Blue dope

Use those pairs every where you cut pipe, so NEXT time, you can repair by simply unscrewing 1/2 of the pair! If you prefer, you can use unions, instead:

2" PVC Union