Pooldoc - I'm not sure if you caught that I have a liner pool. Does that change anything? Any idea of how much bleach I should use on a normal day (no algae).
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Pooldoc - I'm not sure if you caught that I have a liner pool. Does that change anything? Any idea of how much bleach I should use on a normal day (no algae).
Joe,
Ben probably did miss that part. He's out of pocket for a bit, so it may be a couple of days before he is able to get back to this thread.
A couple of questions for you? What kind of kit are you using? You cannot use the dilution method for extended periods of time, especially when you are going to really high levels like you seem to be doing.
I'm concerned what you may be doing to your liner with these kinds of high chlorine levels. Are we sure it is black algae?
Check that and maintain your chlorine levels for now until Ben is able to get back to you on this thread.
The way Ben suggests to check to see if it really is black algae is to scrape some off, and under your fingernail. Then, dry off, and smear the stuff under your fingernail onto a white index card. If the smear is green -- you have 'black' algae. Maybe you can try that to verify if it is indeed black algae.
I think we may have suggested it before up in this thread (don't have time right now to reread the entire thread) but in case we didn't, you need to get a good kit! (Amazon link below.)
-- Momentarily camping out in the cabin owner's office --
I did miss the liner bit; if it is black algae, you can eradicate it from a liner pool. But . . . you must get all of it, and you should try the "shmear' test Watermom described to verify that that's what you actually have. In liner pools, plasticizer bleeding can look like black algae, but algaecides won't help at all.
Ben
OK, I will do that. Any other suggestions, ph? Something is burning a lot of chlorine. What, other than algae, can do this? Should I switch back to tablets? Like I said, I'm using gallons and gallons of bleach. Thanks for your help.
Don't switch back to tablets. They have CYA in them and you do not want that any higher. If you can find someplace that sells liquid chlorine at a higher concentration, that would be fewer jugs to contend with. (Some places sell 10 or 12.5% sodium hypochlorite. Bleach is 6% sodium hypochlorite.)
I'm not sure what your question is about pH. Yours is fine at 7.6.
Stay the course. Test and add bleach every few hours if you can. No such thing as too often when fighting algae. Report results from the "smear" test.
Thanks, I will continue to add the bleach. I am really at a loss. Is there anything other than an algae that could cause this?
High ammonia from something that was added to the pool or from the biodegradation of CYA over the winter, neither of which apply to your situation. I know it is frustrating, but keep adding bleach.
Today, is sunny and I'm back to adding tons of bleach. My test kit is the Taylor one recommended here. I do want to switch to a higher bleach content. Is there any online store you use to order 10 or 12%? Also, please explain how much of the 32oz would = 128oz of the 5.5. It sounds like two quarts = 1 gallon but not sure. As far as the inconvenience 0f gallons, it's not a big deal. It's actually funny the comments I get from the cashier when they see me buying all their bleach. I pay $1.47 per gallon. How does compare to your price?
Shipping costs would negate any savings over your current price, which is actually very good if it's 6%. A 5 gallon container of 12.5% weighs 40+ pounds. Is your bleach marked 5.5%? Even at 5.5%, a $1.47 a gallon is good. Are you sure it's a gallon? I don't see gallon jugs around here anymore. They're either 96 oz jugs or the 182 oz jugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by joecus
Yes it is 1 gallon. It's a store brand (pathmark). It does not give the % on the label. I've tried to look up the % on the web without any luck. The directions match Clorox so I'm assuming it's 5.5. I've just ordered an ammonia test kit to see it that's my problem. Just a long shot chance. Last year I did have a major issue with one of the algaecide. The product name was United Chemicals Black Treat 3. It was a very weird problem, after adding this product, whenever I added chlorine, it would turn the water light green. By morning it was back to crystal clear. The water tested positive for metal. I bought a magnet/powder from my local pool store and mixed it with the earth. I did this along with few partial refills and the problem went a way. I'm thinking this may be some sort of residual from that problem. Any thoughts on partial doing partial refills. I have not been able to confirm the algae (smear test) due to me scrubbing it away on Saturday. I cannot see an algae present right now. One thing I have not been doing is running the filter 24/7. I reread the article Watermom put up and they suggested running 24.7 I am going to start doing this today.