You are actually ok with pH of 7.2 as long as it goes no lower. Sometimes, it seems that chlorine works better at clearing a pool when the pH is on the low end of the normal range.
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You are actually ok with pH of 7.2 as long as it goes no lower. Sometimes, it seems that chlorine works better at clearing a pool when the pH is on the low end of the normal range.
Things are on hold until I can get refills for the chemicals in my kit. Went to two pool stores yesterday and both were out of what I need. I have been adding bleach periodically to try and keep up the level even though I am unsure of what it is. I have a general idea of what it is because of the strips I have, but certainly don't know the exact level.
We've had a lot of rain lately so I am sure that it's affecting the Chlorine. Also, when I backwash, it doesn't appear to be working correctly so I am unsure how to fix that. Because of that I haven't put in D.E. because I'm afraid I won't be able to get it out by backwashing. I am hoping to take the valve in on Thursday to see what the problem is (if any) with that.
Any ideas on what could be wrong with the backwashing.
Until you can get some refills, can you stop in at Walmart and pick up a 5-way test kit or at least an OTO kit? We can help you get by on one of those for a couple of days if necessary. You may have to order refills online.
Explain exactly what is going on with the backwashing and why you don't think it is working. To be able to help with that problem we need some more info.
The amount of water that is coming out is pretty small. When I first opened the pool this year the water would gush out pretty fast, almost like a fire hose, but now it's not coming out much at all. Almost like at faucet speed.
It appears to be circulating correctly, but definitely not working correctly when it's backwashing. I took the valve head off to see if there was anything in there blocking the path of the water, but couldn't find anything. Then again, I wasn't able to get everything out that was under the valve head so maybe something is in there that's obscuring that path?
The nozzle that comes out of the valve head where the water comes out when backwashing is cracked so I have a new one to put on, but need a monkey wrench which I will get today.
I'll go by walmart today and pick up the 5 way kit.
I put a link to this thread in the equipment section of the forum so maybe some of our equipment/filter people will see it and come take a look at this problem for you.
I got the test kit from walmart, now what? Do I test for total chlorine/total Bromine? The level of that only goes up to 10, thought I need it up to 15?
You don't have bromine in your pool.
Run all the tests. If your chlorine level is higher than the tester can go, you can use dilution to make it go higher. Take one part pool water and 1 part distilled water. Mix them together and fill your test vial with it. Then run the test and multiply the results by 2. If that doesn't read high enough, take 1 part pool water and 2 parts distilled, test and multiply by 3, etc.
Post all your numbers tomorrow and also tell us how the water looks.
The OTO test is for both chlorine and bromine-based pools. If you have a bromine-based pool (and you don't) the scale goes to 10ppm. If you have a chlorine-based pool, the scale goes to 5ppm. That's why it's marked 5/10. Ignore the bromine scale.
PROBLEM SOLVED!!! It helps to have the pool on the right setting. Had the pool on recirculate vs filter. Pool is clear.
Amazing how that works. :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
I'd feel all superior here, except I've done that on a 240,000 gallon pool!
PoolDoc
Yeah, the more we know the more we ASSUME we didn't mess up on the obvious stuff! :eek:
I'm not surprised I made this mistake since this is only my second summer as a pool owner. I'm just surprised after all of the people I talked to and the length of time (a month) I was having cloudy pool problems that nobody suggested to check the setting. Oh well, glad it's clear now.