THANKS!!!! That was really weirding me out!!!
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THANKS!!!! That was really weirding me out!!!
Hi Team,
An update and questions...test results from earlier this morning are:
pH = 7.2
TA = 90
CYA = 35
FC has been drifting down since mustard algae shock attack. My estimate of FC is 15. I had to use dilution test as I am out of reagent to use with K-2206 test.
Questions:
1) is there a way/procedure to use fewer drops of R-0871 when repeatedly testing FC at mustard algae shock levels?
2) should I continue to lower TA (by adding acid to lower pH then aerating then repeating)
3) When should I add CYA to raise it? I've added several times this summer and am surprised it is as low as 35 but I triple- checked it today
I'm hoping that I have successfully removed the mustard algae but time will tell. No more extended trips away from home/pool should help.
thanks for your continued assistance!
You can use a 5ml sample and multiply drop count by 1ppm. If you have a way to measure 5ml.Quote:
1) is there a way/procedure to use fewer drops of R-0871 when repeatedly testing FC at mustard algae shock levels?
I see no reason to move your TA.Quote:
2) should I continue to lower TA (by adding acid to lower pH then aerating then repeating)
Whenever you want to. How do you get 35ppm? Halfway between 30ppm and 40ppm?Quote:
3) When should I add CYA to raise it? I've added several times this summer and am surprised it is as low as 35 but I triple- checked it today
If you are using the 10 ml sample, then there's no further improvment. However, you can (with practice) learn to eyeball an OTO tester, so you can use it instead. To do so, you'll need to practice by testing with BOTH the FAS-DPD and an OTO kit at the same time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kateyru
It's low enough . . . unless you want to do borates, which will make your pool significantly more resistant to algae. Info here:Quote:
2) should I continue to lower TA (by adding acid to lower pH then aerating then repeating)
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?18597
35 is pretty low -- if you can get a box of PoolBrand dichlor bags at Sams Club, I'd do that. If not, I've posted links below for Amazon. It's very hard to buy un-gooped-up dichlor otherwise. But the big question is, does your pool leak? That, or excessive backwashing, would be the only reason for dropping CYA levels. (You know you should ONLY backwash when your filter pressure increases at least 5 psi over clean pressure, right? Your pressure gauge DOES work, right?)Quote:
3) When should I add CYA to raise it? I've added several times this summer and am surprised it is as low as 35 but I triple- checked it today
I emailed you links to your Pool History Chart.
Ben
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+ If you need stabilizer, and have access to a Sams Club, buy their 24 pack of 1# bags of dichlor shock. Each bag will add about 7 ppm of chlorine, and about 6 ppm of stabilizer, per 10K gallons of water. Otherwise, order dichlor from Amazon:Kem-Tek Dichlor 22 lbsWe do NOT recommend buying dichlor locally, otherwise, at least until you are an EXPERT reader of chemical labels. The chlorinating pool chemicals sold at Walmart, Kmart, Costco, and most other local stores are diluted blends, sometimes with copper and other products with bad side-effects.
Ahh-h.
Simul-responders . . .
BigDave, I don't think there's a 5 ml marked point on the tester, is there? I'll have to go look.
There is a 5mL mark on the tube you get with the HTH 6 way, so is it ok to use that, and have a 1ppm resolution?
Yeah, if you can see the color change (pink to clear) that would be fine.
My head is spinning...
okay, I use K-2006 kit and no 5ml marker so I might could TRY to guess at 5ml...or use a measuring cup or spoon. I also have a basic OTO test kit, just fyi. My Walmart doesn't have that HTH test kit.
will leave TA alone for now...would love to do the borate thing but want to make sure algae is really gone.
CYA at 35 was my eyeball estimate. If I add Sam's dichlor, I'm sending FC back up, correct? Do I need to?
I don't think pool leaks but we add water regularly/daily. I live in summer hell, oh, I mean Montgomery, Ala where it is very hot and very humid. I don't backwash often, pressure rarely moves much. Great thought about the gauge, how would I know if it works correctly?????
Ben, I just saw email with pool hx in inbox and will get on that.
Would one of you guys please move to Montgomery :)
Thanks, thanks!
Actually, borates would help with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kateyru
But . . .
Sounds like a leak. You need to do a bucket test, to find out:Quote:
I don't think pool leaks but we add water regularly/daily.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?11252
ok, will do test. Should pump be on overnight for the test?
thx
Yea, I saw that after I posted.Quote:
Originally Posted by PoolDoc
Many liquid medicine dose cups have a 5ml mark, one could measure water with that, transfer it to the test cylinder and mark the test cylinder with tape or marker.
Yes. Later, you may need to turn it off, to see if it leaks LESS with the pump off . . . assuming it is leaking.
ok, I'll leave it on. I sure hope we don't have a leak...
thanks
me too.
Not able to do bucket test last night so will do tonight.
I have a glass jigger with 5 ml so measured pool water then put in K-2009 tube and tested for FC. Worked GREAT! FC = 10. I guess it might be more challenging if FC is low.
Just sent husband to Leslie's with water sample to see what test results they get. Told him NOT TO BUY anything!!! I've used sooooo much reagent this summer shocking pool at regular level then mustard algae level multiple times. Glad to find a way to test with less reagent!!!!!
Can I use OTO test when FC is back to 5?
will check back about leak.
Thanks!!!!!!
Husband just called with Leslie test results (done about 30 minutes after I tested FC):
FC = 5
TA = 70
pH = 7.4
CYA = 40
Calcium = 50
phosphates = 1000
I have never tested phosphates. Please let me know if I need to do anything...I'll check forum too.
Do you think Leslie's results are more accurate than me? I have trusted their test results in the past, just didn't use their recs.
Sorry I overlooked this.
You do not have to do anything about the phosphates.
Is your mustard algae gone, yet?
Yes, it is gone!!!! I'm trying to raise CYA now. I've had my granddaughters here for the last few days and kept forgetting to do the bucket test. Remembered last night but I think my dog drank water from the bucket as it was way down. I asked my mother (who lives in Birmingham, AL) if she added water every day and she said yes unless it rains. For the sake of discussion, let's say I don't have a leak, just heat and high humidity so I have to add water frequently. I also add lots of salt in the summer...at least a bag a week, maybe more. I need to record that to be sure. Anyway, if I'm adding water almost daily, couldn't that account for loss of CYA and need for lots of salt???
Adding water doesn't account for chemical loss -- when water evaporates, it leaves the chemicals in it behind. However, water that leaks out, or splashes out, takes the chemicals with it.
ah darn, guess that's not it :)
What about dilution? By adding water almost daily, don't I dilute the CYA and the salt?
Only if water is physically removed before you add fresh water. Otherwise, with evaporation only water gets removed and not the water's contents (CYA, salt, etc.) that simply get more concentrated. So when you add more water it does get diluted, but back to where it started.
Imaging half of the water evaporating. In that case, a CYA of 50 ppm would become 100 ppm because there is the same amount of CYA but now in half as much water (so the concentration gets doubled). When you add fresh water, you dilute this back to 50 ppm.
Okay, I'll quit trying to figure it out...it is what it is!
Thanks!!
Okay, finally did the bucket test...I concede that I seem to have a leak. as I understand it, the next thing I do is plug up all lines going in and out of the pool, but I don't know how to do that. Sorry to be dense.
Thanks.
Probably at this point, what you need to do is just keep using your pool, and keep your eyes open for a leak. Save the pipe testing till your water is cooler and will 'keep' better, with the pump turned off!
I've been looking at youtube videos and may try to see if I can find leaks in my liner...am hoping that's the problem! I did learn how to plug all the lines :) The more posts I read on here, the more problems I discover with my pool. Thank goodness for all the help!
Thanks.
Hi PF team,
My water is looking great. I probably have a leak somewhere but can't find it in the liner. I test FC and pH daily and often have to add acid to keep pH right.
So, here's my new problem. My pump is on a timer. I've noticed a few times recently that pump is turning itself off before end time on the timer. Sounds like the pump is overheating, maybe? Other thoughts? Is it time to call my pool guy?
Thanks.
Katey
What do you mean, "turning itself off"? Is the breaker tripping? Is the pump turning off, and then after 10 - 15 minutes back on?
The latter behavior would be typical of a pump turning off on an overheat safety.
The pump turns off before end time per the timer. It has not turned back on but I don't know how long it's been off. I've just noticed that it is off "early" so to speak. It is not tripping the breaker, and I have been able to turn it back on as soon as I've realized it's off. Hope that makes sense.
I can't tell anything from that description. Can you turn the timer off, and leave the pump running? If there's a problem with the pump, it will shut itself off at some point. But, if the problem is with the timer, the pump will run uninterrupted.
sorry I'll try again....for example, timer is set to turn pump off at 5pm but at 3 pm I notice that pump is already off. Are you suggesting that I remove "off" clip on timer and see if pump runs indefinitely?
Yes, or remove the timer from the circuit completely. He is trying to rule out the timer being the problem. If the timer is not in the circuit and the pump still shuts off, the problem is most likely with the pump. If the timer is not in the circuit and the pump does not shut off, the problem is most likely with the timer.
The problem is the timer. My husband said that he tried to move or did move the pointer (which directions on the timer say NOT to do) when trying to set timer. We have a T104R timer. Suggestions on fixing this?
Thanks.
Buy a new timer. Any attempt at moving the pointer will likely strip the nylon gear. All it takes is 1 tooth on any of the gears being stripped to cause what you have described.
You can buy a complete timer unit, remove the timer from the box, and install it into your existing box:Intermatic T104RIntermatic sells the mechanisms alone, but you can buy the complete unit just as cheaply. Swapping mechanisms can save you some rewiring work. However, if your BOX isn't in good shape, you wouldn't want to do so.
Again, if you by the entire box, you can swap EITHER the box OR the just the mechanism.
However, as Charlie notes, the mechanism itself isn't really repairable.
Thanks. Before seeing your and charlie's responses, I asked my pool guy. He said he had never done it but to try to loosen the screw that holds the pointer down then move the pointer to the correct position (pointing to 6 o;clock) then tighten screw. I did that but can't tell you if it works yet. I had to add CYA and have had pump running non-stop. The time of day is correct but clips are removed temporarily. more to follow...
on another note,re: my leak problem, I noticed that the waste line from filter was leaking. There is also the possibility that the multi-port valve was leaking when lever was in "filter" position. I'm not sure...too much on my plate and hadn't noticed. Pool guy replaced the top part of the multi-port value. He said the o-ring was bad, and he asked me if I had shocked alot this summer....if he ONLY knew. Anyway, I said yes and he said that's what caused the o-ring to deteriorate. So, my question...is this THE leak? I mean, could I lose alot of water this way?
Thanks.