Test as often as you can and bring the FC back up if it drops below 15.
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Test as often as you can and bring the FC back up if it drops below 15.
will do, thanks!
Did you add bleach after you tested last night? How did your FC go from 16 to 18.5 overnight?
No, I didn't add bleach after last night's test so I don't know how or why FC went up. Tester error? I am trying very hard to test accurately. Summary of today's test results: 6:30 am, FC = 18.5 and CC <.5 11:30 am FC = 17.5 and CC = 0 3:00 pm FC = 14 so I added 96 oz. of bleach 6:30 pm FC = 18.5
Next steps?
thanks
Just keep doing what you're doing, until you're not losing any chlorine overnight. Then you can let the chlorine drift down to the normal range for your CYA.
Janet
FC = 18.5 this morning, same as late yesterday afternoon. So, no more bleach unless 1 of you experts tells me otherwise. When do I increase CYA to get it between 70 and 80 as recommended?
I just had a thought. Is you SWCG running? (this is not a prank call)
Yes.
OK, that could explain how FC went from 16 to 18.5 without adding bleach.
Can you shutdown SWCG without shutting down pump / filter? If yes, please do.
How's the water look, has the cloudy cleared? Running pump / filter 24/7? How's the filter pressure?
Please test FC, CC, and pH add bleach if FC is below 15 and get a FC reading at dusk so we can see how we're doing at dawn.
I have shut SWG down. Pump/filter has been running 24/7 except about 2 hours today when I ran robotic pool cleaner. Filter pressure has remained constant since 4/1/12 tho I backwashed late this afternoon. The water is not cloudy and there are no visible signs of dead algae. I brushed and saw nada. I wouldn't say the water is sparkling but definitely is clear. I guess I would describe it as a dull clear. Test numbers at 5pm with sun behind the trees: FC = 15.5, CC = 0 and pH = 7.3 to 7.4. I have not added any bleach today.
So, I should test FC, CC and pH at dawn? I have to leave my house about 6:20 in the morning and will be gone all day. Could you give me recommendations for the morning. I'll test and proceed per your guidance.
Thanks!
Dave, she reports in her post above that her CC was 0 and she had no chlorine loss overnight.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDave
Katey, if tomorrow morning you still show no more than a 1ppm drop and still no CC, then go ahead and let the cl drift down and you can bump up your CYA if you wish.
H2O Ma, you're back...so if I have more than a 1 ppm drop or more than .5 CC, I'll need to add bleach, right? Just trying to make sure I'll know how to proceed.
and do I turn SWG back on in the morning?
Yes, If more than a 1ppm drop or CC greater than 0.5ppm, then you're not done and you'll need to add bleach. Otherwise, let the cl drift down. Keep your SWCG off until your cl drifts down. No reason to waste your cell life.
got it, thanks!
If you have no more than 1 ppm FC loss overnight (with the SWCG off), your CC is at or near 0 and the water looks clear; you can let FC drift down. The complicating factor here is that we lost no FC last night but the SWCG was on so... we lost as much FC as the SWCG produced overnight.
If your FC is 14.5 or higher in the morning then we're done with the algae battle and you can let the FC drift down.
If you can't watch it tomorrow and your FC in the morning is 14.5 or below, add some bleach to get above 15 and turn on your SWCG. Run another FC / CC test when you get home and let's take it from there.
Good catch, Dave. With the SWCG running, you can't tell if there was no chlorine loss overnight or if the SWCG made up the difference.
Yesterday morning (6 am) FC was 14 and CC = 0. I did not add bleach (sorry--too early and too much of a hurry to check Dave's post)). Pump is running 24/7 but SWG is still off. Test results this morning were FC = 10 and CC = 0. Water looks good. Do I need to add bleach and get back over 15 again?
Not necessarily. Test FC tonight when the sun is off the pool, and again early tomorrow morning before the sun is on the pool.
If FC is the same or within 1 ppm then you're done!
If FC drops by 1+, we'll need to get back to shock level.
Do you still have a supply of dichlor?
Pump / filter on - SWCG off.
How's your filter pressure?
I have 3 1/4 lbs. of dichlor. Filter pressure remains steady. Do I need to leave pump on 24/7 till tomorrow am?
Is filter pressure steady at the same pressure as clean or higher than clean but not high enough to backwash yet?
Let's leave the pump on.
pressure is same as clean
Great! Looking forward to hearing that tomorrow morning's FC level is the same as tonight's.
fingers crossed...will email you in the am!
Morning! 7 am test results are FC = 7 and CC = 0. Pump is on but SWG is off. Let me know next steps.
Thanks!!
================
Just realized that I didn't give you results from late yesterday afternoon. They were FC = 8 and CC was <.5 but not quite 0.
Sorry I didn't check in sooner, been busy - beautiful day.
So ... you're right on the edge. 1 ppm FC lost overnight and .5 ppm CC yesterday.
I'd backwash even if the pressure hasn't risen to get rid of the stuff that's been filtered out. I'd also do the evening and morning FC check again tonight - just to be sure.
Next, you need to decide how to raise your CYA. I presume you want to get it to 70-80 for your SWCG.
If you're willing, you can manually chlorinate with dichlor for a while - each pound of dichlor should raise your FC by 3 ppm and your CYA by 2.7 ppm and drop your pH by 0.11.
Or you can use CYA, each pound should raise your CYA by 5.4 and lower pH by 0.1 and turn your SWCG back on.
Let us know how you want to proceed and we'll be here to help.
What's your pH? you'll need to keep an eye on it as you raise the CYA.
Keep in mind that a dirty filter will filter better than a clean one--if the pool has been clear since the last backwash, there's really no reason to waste the water if your pressure isn't up...Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDave
Janet
My concern here is that pool may have come down from shock a little early, we had 0.5 ppm CC yesterday and 1 ppm FC loss overnight. I'm thinking that the stuff in the filter is contributing to that 1 ppm FC loss.
Sunday 7 am test results were FC = 7 and CC = 0. I haven't backwashed today. If/when we are ready to increase the CYA--yes, I want to get to 70 - 80--I have dichlor and stabilizer/cya so can go either way. Before you suggested the dichlor, I was planning to use CYA. Dichlor has not been on my radar previously. Plus CYA seems more efficient based on the ratios you gave.
So, should I backwash first? then test cya, pH and TA at the same time then increase the cya then the TA then the pH???????
FC was 7 this morning as well as yesterday morning? Is the SWCG on? The pool covered? Did you add chlorine? Was it really cloudy yesterday?
If your FC is holding overnight and you have no CC then ignore my suggestion about backwashing early - no need at all.
The dichlor adds both FC and CYA, If you're willing to manually dose the dichlor for a few days to keep your FC in range(SWCG off), you'll save a little of your cell life, get closer to your CYA goal and use up your supply of dichlor.
- or - if manually adding the dichlor sounds like a pain, turn on the SWCG, put some stabilizer in a sock(start with half of what you think you'll need) and hang it in front of a return.
Either way test FC an pH daily add Borax if pH drops. Keep FC above the minimum on Ben's Best Guess Chart. Remember: As you approach your CYA goal, your minimum FC will go from 3 to 5.
Give it a week before you test your CYA - no need to waste the reagent. The granular stabillizer disolves very slowly and you'll only be adding a portion of your CYA goal with each dose if you choose dichlor.
I wouldn't worry about the TA, 80 seems pretty good, lower TA helps reduce pH rise cause by SWCG use. If you find your pH too unstable, look around these forums for establishing a Borate buffer.
Let us know what you decide and how it's going.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDave
Yes, FC = 7 yesterday morning and this morning. SWG is still off. Pool is not covered. I did not add chlorine but did add some salt. Yes, it was very cloudy yesterday (the explanation for unchanged FC of course).
Using dichlor is fine. The CYA (per K2006 test kit) is 30. It's going to take alot of dichlor, to go up 40ppm, isn't it?
CONFESSION: the TA = 80 may not be accurate as I have not tested it with K2006 kit. (Don't ask.) Do I need to test it now?
Do I need to keep filter/pump running 24/7 as I work with the CYA?
"Let you know how it's going" makes me laugh. You can't get rid of me this easily or quickly.
I LOVE my pool. Thanks for helping me become better at maintaining it.
I'm sorry if that sounded dissmissive - not intentional.
As far as the pump, it depends. Are you planning to dose the dichlor into the skimmer and let it dissolve on top of the sand? How often and for how long do you run it on timer? Could you divide the run time into two or three periods a day?
When you have a chance run the FC CC pH and TA so we can see where we are.
Use up the dichlor you have on hand to maintain FC. When it's gone, put on the SWCG, wait a few days and test CYA then figure the plan to bring your CYA up to desired level using Granular CYA.
No apologies needed, you didn't sound dismissive...I just know I'll need a little more handholding.
I must have been testing while you were posting. Results are FC = 4.5 (sunny day), pH = 7.3, TA = 80 (bright pink color, I wouldn't call it red)
Dissolve on top of sand??? not sure what that means...dose the dichlor in the skimmer basket at the pump versus in skimmer at the pool? Wherever I put it, does all go in at one time?
I run the timer about 8 hours a day. It would be somewhat difficult to divide the run time for the next couple of days (due to work schedule).
re: sock for granular cya...a real sock or is there a pool sock?
When the TA test changes (in one or two drops) from green to Red / intense pink you're there. 80 sounds pretty good.
I meant puttng it in the pool skimmer - it then goes through the pipe, through the pump then onto the sand. As far "as all at once" - slowly into the skimmer, you don't want a big chunk to clog your pipes or pump.
if you've only one run period a day, best to add the dichlor at the beginning of the pump run. I wouldn't pour it in the skimmer if the pump is not running and neither should you.
I've used a nylon stocking doubled over - some people use tube socks.
So... FC 4.5 on a sunny day - loss of 2.5 today. Another 2.5 puts you below your minimum. I'd dose with a pound of dichlor. You'll need to add Borax after that to lift pH.
Ok, I'll put in a lb. of dichlor 1st thing tomorrow morning then check FC and pH later in the day.
thanks.
I have a question. I'm at the point where I am adding CYA (granular) to pool water. It's in a stocking and hanging in front of a return as of late yesterday afternoon. Do I need to run the filter/pump 24/7 while CYA dissolves or just run the usual 8 hours? Btw, water is looking good, and FC = 5 and pH = 7.6 per most recent test.
Thanks.
Hey, happy to hear from you, I'd been wondering how the algea battle finished up. Glad to hear it's looking good.
Run your pump on it's regular schedule. Give the sock a squeeze now and again to help it along.
Good, glad I can cut back on pump time, and I'll squeeze prn. Many thanks again for all the help!!
Well, I'm back with another question...I just tested (5:45 pm) and got FC = 11.5 and pH = 7.6 (holding steady). My FC is up from 5 in 48 hours. I added salt and may have gotten a little heavy-handed. Hayward recs 2700-3400 and I'm at 3900. I'd set SWG at 45%. Is the FC up because of too much salt or is % too high? Other thoughts?
Thanks.
I don't know if extra salt makes extra chlorine - I doubt it, but if your chlorine is climbing, you may want to consider reducing the on time of the salt cell or the % on the salt cell.
I don't think the salt is a problem. But, what is your CYA level, and how are you testing. I saw mention of an OTO kit; do you have a K2006 yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kateyru
FC = 10+ is too high, if your CYA is below 40 ppm, unless you are having algae problems.